Life in Java/Volume 1/Chapter 5
CHAPTER V.
CLIMATE OF TOSARI—SECOND JOURNEY TO THE BROMOK—ANNUAL FESTIVAL—SLAMAT OF THE VOLCANO—MAHOMEDAN ANTIPATHY—GAY SCENE—BLESSING THE OFFERINGS—THROWING THEM INTO THE CRATER—FOWL PITCHING—PRESENT TO MY WIFE—ANOTHER VIEW OF THE SAND SEA—BATTU CUDA—SINGULAR MODE OF MARKING THE ROUTE—BATTU BALANG—GOOD LUCK OR BAD—RETURN TO TOSARI—LEAVE FOR PASSERPAN, AND FROM THENCE TO PASSEROEWAN.
CHAPTER V.
The climate of Tosari reminded me of that of England towards the latter end of the months of October and November. It was either misty all day, or, if clear in the morning, would generally change about noon, the atmosphere then becoming thick and heavy, followed by a kind of Scotch mist. A fog would sometimes hang all day over the landscape like a curtain, veiling every distant object from view, the dampness that everywhere prevailed making you feel cold and chilly, and everything you touched moist and clammy. The average temperature all the year round at Tosari varies from 60° 65' to 70° Fahr., water being invariably, I was told, at 52°. On rare occasions, in very warm weather, the glass has risen to 75°, and even 80°.
The day after our excursion was the one fixed for the Slamat, or Slamatan Bromok, i.e., the blessing or worshipping of the volcano, a ceremony which, with its accompanying feast, the Javanese in this and the surrounding neighbourhood hold regularly once a year. The pilgrims who frequent it, unlike the Javanese in general, are Brahmins, though not so strict in their rites as their brethren in India. They inhabit the provinces of Probolingo, Malang, a great part of Bezuki, and part of the island of Bali, as well as that of Lomboc.
Their language is Javanese, disfigured by some provincialisms and peculiar accents, by no means pleasing to the correct notions of my Batavian boy, who considered himself a competent critic in such matters.
As we were anxious to see this curious ceremony we determined on again riding to the Bromok.
Indeed, we should have postponed our excursion there in order to wait for the Slamat, of which Van Rhée had given us intimation, but we were afraid the weather might change from doubtful mist to drenching rains, and therefore took advantage of the fair opportunity, determining, if fine, to go again next day.
We left Tosari at seven a.m., reached the Mungal about half-past eight, and, as the descent was less slippery than the day before, soon gained the Sand Sea. As we approached the two huts, the lively scene before us presented a strange contrast to the utter loneliness of yesterday. A large number of people were assembled in groups, variously occupied—some eating, some praying, and others talking, laughing, singing, selling, and buying. There were vendors of amulets, charms, and stones found last year near the Bromok, which were sure remedies against every illness flesh is heir to. Bearded Arabs were offering for sale otto of roses, and small vials of "Kohol's jetty dye."
Food of all kinds was provided in abundance for sale, and placed for show on economical stands formed of a plank resting on two stout poles. Wodonos and Mantries, with their small suite of followers, paraded up and down, gaily dressed, their burnished krisses glittering amid the folds of their batek sarong. Old men and women, who had come to pay their last respects to the shrine, moved feebly along. They watched with eyes of delight the frolics of their grandchildren, for there seemed no end of juveniles, from the screaming babe in arms to the romping child. All appeared bent on pleasure, and the Dasar, which, on our last visit, presented a barren aspect, solemn in its very solitude, was now as gay as a fair.
My servant, Drahman, who was a strict Mahomedan, shewed the light in which he regarded these devotees, by refusing an invitation to partake of some of their viands. On my asking him his reason, he replied,
" They eat unclean animals, sir, such as swine and other beasts of the forest."
Before the principal hut was a bench, covered with white cloth, on which sat Nonyha (or Mrs.) Van Rhee. Her dress, partly Javanese, and partly European, consisted of a pair of white trowsers, over which was the sarong. Her kabaya was made of muslin, and she wore a salen dang across her shoulder. The most comical part of her dress, however, was the broad-brimmed felt wide-awake, round the crown of which a white muslin pugrie was wound.
A short distance from this bench were twenty mats, placed on the Sand Sea, on each of which knelt a young priest, having before him a box of myrrh, aloes, frankincense, and other spices, which are sold for offerings. At right angles with this row of mats was another row, with the same number of priests, all kneeling in the Arab fashion, their bodies partly resting on the calves of their legs. They were all more advanced in years than the others, probably the patriarchs of their respective villages. Some of them even looked bent with the " weight of years!" Behind each sat a payong bearer, sheltering his master from the sun. The sacerdotal dress consisted of a white gown, over sarongs of batek, which were tied to the waist by broad red belts. Over the shoulders hung two bands of yellow silk, bound with scarlet, with tassels and coins hanging from the ends. Round the head was a large turban, ornamented with gaudy silk scarfs. Before each priest were small packets made of plantain leaves, containing incense, chips of sandal -wood, and other preparations; wooden censers, from which arose clouds of aromatic perfumes; and a basket of plaited rattan, containing water, near which was a goupillon, made of plantain leaves, with flowers fixed at the top.
Crowds stood within about six paces of the priests, waiting for the consecration of their various offerings, which were placed on stands made of bamboo. The offerings generally consisted of cocoa-nuts, plantains, pine-apples, mangoes, and other fruits; baskets of chickens recently fledged; pots, prios, and baskets of rice; trays piled up with a variety of cakes exhaling incongruous smells; strips of calico and silk; coins of silver, gold, and copper; besides numerous other objects.
After some minutes spent in prayer, the people going through all the external forms prescribed by their creed, which often constitute the whole extent of their knowledge of it, each priest dipped his goupillon into the basket of water, which he took into his left hand, and muttering some words, sprinkled the offerings as they were brought to him. All the holy men then bowed down, and repeated a loud prayer, which was echoed by the young ponditas and some of the bystanders.
The oldest of the priests next rose up, followed by all the others, repeating words which sounded like " Ayo ! Ayo ! Bromok !" probably meaning "Forward, forward, to the Bromok!" This was the signal anxiously expected. The mass of human beings now made a tremendous rush for the volcano, the first who succeeded in gaining the ridge believing himself favoured by fortune, and certain of future good luck. Some of the old priests would stop every now and then, bid their followers spread the mat, and prostrate themselves in prayer for fully five or ten minutes, a proceeding which struck me as savouring strongly of sham, for no doubt they were fatigued, and made a virtue of necessity. The roaring of the Bromok seemed greater than it was yesterday, a fact most probably attributable to the lightness of the atmosphere.
The various families and individuals then handed their offerings to the priests, who again mumbled a few words over them, after which their owners hurled them down the crater, repeating, as they did so, some prayer or wish. Cocoa-nuts produced a faint boom, boom, as they came in contact with the shelving sides, and were lost for ever. Plantains, rice, and cakes were thrown down in baskets, sending back columns of dust as they gradually disappeared. Our hostess threw down a number of coins, and several small pieces of muslin. On my remarking this afterwards to Van Rhée, he laughed heartily, and replied, " Oh! she wishes for a child; but she need not be in a hurry, she will have one in time, without doubt; but you see, sir, she is superstitious—and no wonder, she is but a child yet in years;'
Some live fowls were thrown in, one or two of which, I was very glad to see, flew on some of the ridges not far from the top, from whence, doubtless, their next flight would be to a place of greater safety.
On descending the volcano several games were carried on, amongst which the most cruel was that of taking young chickens from their baskets and throwing them into the air, to be scrambled for as they fell to the ground. This produced a scene of great excitement, everyone being anxious to secure one of the poor creatures, or even a leg or wing, for good luck. Air. Van Rhee succeeded in saving two of these devoted little chicks, which he presented to my* wife. She accepted one, and handed the other to our hostess. Ours travelled with us in the Rees-Wagen all through Java, lived some time in Singapore with other live stock, and finally returned with us to England, where she excites no little admiration in our " farmyard," in which she is known by the name of " Bromok."
I went, accompanied by the Mandor, to the east side of the volcano, where some huge boulders of black, burnt-looking stone, known by the name of Batu cuda, or Stone Horse, covered a great portion of the Sand Sea. Here I had a view of the other arm of the Dasar, though from no point can you see the whole extent of it at one time. On our way back we had to walk across a dry channel fully twenty feet in breadth, similar to those I have already described on the other side, but longer and wider, completely separating the Dasar into two parts for some distance!
We returned by a route but seldom traversed, and that only by pilgrims from Nadasari. I perceived small heaps of stones every now and then, along the road to the huts, reminding me of the means adopted by the Egyptians in the desert to mark their camel tract. This is one proof of the vast extent of the Sand Sea, as, without some marks of this kind, travellers would either be lost, or lose much valuable time in endeavouring to find their way.
We passed a large pyramidal mound called by the natives Batu Balang, or stone-throwing. On one side of it a number of young men and women were gathered, throwing stones by turns, and endeavouring to launch them with such force as to clear the top of the mound. Each one, as we were informed, was compelled to walk three times round the mound before throwing his stone; those who performed the feat successfully regarding it as a sign of good fortune, and feeling confident that during the ensuing twelvemonth their most cherished wishes would most certainly be accomplished.
We returned very quickly to Tosari; and having partaken of lunch, mounted fresh horses, and proceeded to Passerpan, where our carriage was waiting. We reached that place at a late hour, feeling very tired with our fatiguing but most delightful excursion.