Life with the Esquimaux/Volume 1/Chapter XI
CHAPTER XI.
Having a great desire to try and do something in the way of exploring, and particularly to accustom myself to actual life among the Innuits, I at length determined to venture on an excursion by sledge and dogs to Cornelius Grinnell Bay, whither Ugarng had already gone. Accordingly, after due preparation, myself and party were ready on the 10th of January, 1861, and away we went.
The following account of the first day's journey is from my journal, as written every evening in an igloo—snow hut:—
"Thursday, January 10th, 1861.—Thermometer 30° below zero, or 62° below freezing point! My company consists of self, Ebierbing, Tookoolito, and Koodloo, the cousin of the deceased Nukertou. By 4 a.m. I was up, and, with lantern in hand, went and called Ebierbing and his wife. They arose, and at once proceeded to gather up whatever things they would require during our stay. I then returned to the ship and packed up my own material. The outfit for this trip consisted, in provisions, of 1½ lb. preserved boiled mutton in cans, 3 lbs. raw salt pork, 15 cakes (4 lbs.) sea-bread, ¼ lb. pepper, 2 lbs. ground burnt coffee, 1 quart molasses, 1 quart cornmeal, and 3 lbs. Cincinnati cracklings for soup. Then, for bedding, 1 double wool blanket, 1 sleeping-bag, 1 cloak and 1 shawl for bed-covering. For clothing, besides my native dress upon me, I took 1 extra under-shirt, 1 woollen shirt, 2 pairs extra stockings, 1 pair extra pants, 2 towels, and 2 pairs mittens. My books were Bowditch's Navigator, Burrit's Geography and Atlas of the Heavens, Gillespie's Land Surveying, Nautical Almanac for 1861, a Bible, and 'Daily Food.' My instruments were, 1 telescope, 1 self-registering thermometer, 1 pocket sextant, 2 magnetic compasses, and 1 marine glass. I had also a rifle and ammunition, oil for lamp, and a hand-saw, besides paper, ink, pens, memorandum and journal book.
"At 10 a.m. we were in readiness—Ebierbing with the loaded sledge and team of dogs (five of his and five of my Greenlanders)—alongside the George Henry. Tookoolito was gaily dressed in new tuktoo skirt, tuktoo pants, jacket, &c. Bidding adieu to our friends on board, we then started, Tookoolito leading the way—tracking for the dogs—for about one mile to the shore, in a north-easterly direction. Thence our course was that which Ugarng had evidently taken the day before. Over hill and mountain, through vale and valley, away we went.[1] Sometimes, when on a descent, our speed was rapid. Now and then we all got on the sledge for a ride. My spirits were high, for this was my first sledge-travelling trip. Ebierbing managed the dogs admirably. Indeed, I should consider him a capital dog-driver. I think I never perspired so profusely as I have this day. Some of the events during our journey have been most amusing. Once we were descending a steep incline, all of the company holding on to the sledge, so as to prevent its too great speed downward, when, one of my feet breaking through the treacherous snow-crust, headlong I went, and, like a hoop, trundled to the bottom of the hill. Tookoolito hastened to my relief, and, seeing a frostbite on my face, she instantly applied her warm hand, the Innuit way, till all was right again. Another steep incline caused the sledge to descend so rapidly that at length it went over three or four of the dogs, who were unable to keep ahead of it, though running at great speed.
"By 3 p.m. we neared the frozen waters of the ocean, after passing over some very abrupt and rocky ground. On the margin of the sea the cliffs were almost perpendicular, and it was necessary to lower the sledge down to the ice below. Accordingly, the dogs were detached, and while Tookoolito, whip in hand, held on by their traces, which were from twenty to thirty feet long, we lowered the sledge. The tide, however, was out, and it caused some difficulty in getting on to the main ice. At length all was safely accomplished, and once more we started on our way, Tookoolito again leading. Then we proceeded for about five miles, when we came to an igloo out on the ice, which had evidently been erected and occupied the night before by Ugarng and his party. Here we should have stopped; but, as the igloo was too small for us, we went on another mile, and then, finding good material for building a snow house, we encamped at 5 p.m."
Ebierbing and Koodloo at once commenced sawing out snowblocks, while I carried them to a suitable spot for erecting the igloo, which took us one hour to make. And a right good one it was, as I soon found. The door sealed up, and the cheerful lamp in full blaze, with a hot supper preparing, made me feel remarkably comfortable, though in a house of snow, built so speedily upon the frozen surface of the treacherous ocean. I will here give this matter more in detail.
Soon as the igloo was completed, Tookoolito entered and commenced placing the stone lamp in its proper position. It was then trimmed, and soon a kettle of snow was over it making water for coffee and soup. She then proceeded to place several pieces of board we had brought with us on the snow platform where our beds were to be made. Upon these pieces was spread the canvas containing some of that small dry shrub I have already alluded to. Over this went the tuktoo skins, and thus our sleeping accommodations were complete.
I should mention that every article on the sledge is passed in through an opening at the back of the igloo, for the purpose of convenience. When all is thus within, then this opening is closed, and a proper entrance made on the side opposite the beds. The dogs are left outside.
The drying of whatever has been worn during the day, or whatever has become wet with perspiration, falls to the lot of the "igloo wife." She places the things on the in-ne-tin (a net over the fire-lamp), and through the night attends to the turning of them, as occasion requires. Her other duties consist in the repairing of such clothing as may be needed. Nothing is allowed to go one day without repair. Everything, where care is required, even to pipes and tobacco, is placed in the igloo wife's hands—in this case, Tookoolito's. These matters I particularly noticed on the occasion of my first night spent in an arctic igloo.
Presently our evening meal was ready. It consisted of Cincinnati crackling soup, a small piece of raw salt pork for each of us, half a biscuit, and coffee. Tookoolito proved herself an excellent cook; and I soon felt convinced that no party should think of travelling in these regions without an Innuit man and his wife, for the latter, above everything, is the "all in all," or at least the "better half."
After supper, myself and the two male Esquimaux had each a pipe, and then turned in, my position being between the hot-blooded Innuits Ebierbing and Koodloo.
I slept as well as I would ever wish, and on the following morning, about nine o'clock, after breakfast and repacking the sledge, we again started. Our proper course was due north, but, owing to hummocky ice, we could not follow it. In truth, sometimes we were obliged to make a retrograde movement to get out of "a fix" that we were occasionally in among icebergs and hummocks. Owing to this, we made but five miles direct toward our destination during the day.
It had been expected that we could reach Cornelius Grinnell Bay in one day from the vessel, but too many obstacles existed to allow it, and thus a second night came upon us while still upon the frozen sea. A storm was also gathering, and its darkness, with the howling wind, which had changed from off the land to right upon it, was foreboding. We were likewise much wearied with the day's labours, and it was some time after we stopped before a suitable place was found and our second igloo erected. At length, though long after dark, we were comfortably located, enjoying a hot supper beneath the snowy dome, the foundation of which rested on the frozen
STORM-BOUND—ENCAMPMENT ON THE FLOE IN DAVIS'S STRAITS, JANUARY 11th AND 12th, 1861.
bosom of the mighty deep. But not too soon were we under shelter. The storm had burst in all its fury, and we could hear the wind roaring outside as we warmed ourselves within.
All night long the gale continued, and the next morning—the third of our journey—it was found impossible to go on. It was blowing a strong gale, and continued so all day, with snow in impenetrable thickness. We were therefore obliged to keep inside our shelter, wrapped in furs.
While thus detained, I took the opportunity to have my hair cut by Tookoolito. It had grown to a great length, even to my shoulders, and I now found it very inconvenient. My beard, whiskers, and moustache were also shorn nearly close to my face. In musquito time they were serviceable, but now they had become quite an evil, owing to the masses of ice that clung to them. Indeed, on the previous night I had to lose a portion of my whiskers. They had become so ice-locked that I could not well get my reindeer jacket off over my head, therefore I used my knife, and cut longer attachments to them.
I may here mention that, after this, when we vacated the snow-house, our dogs rushed in to devour whatever they could find, digestible or not digestible, and my locks were a portion of what they seized. In went my discarded hair to fill up their empty stomachs! A few days later, I saw the very same hirsute material, just as clipped from my head, lining a step leading to another igloo, having passed through the labyrinthian way from a dog's mouth onward.
About 4 p.m. Ebierbing ventured outside to see how matters looked, but he soon returned with the astounding news that the ice was breaking, and water had appeared not more than ten rods south of us! I looked, and, to my dismay, found that a crack or opening extended east and west to the land, distant about three miles! The gale had evidently set the sea in heavy motion somewhere, and its convulsive throbs were now at work underneath the ice close to and around us. It still blew very hard, but as yet the wind was easterly, and so far good, because, if a nearer disruption took place, we should be forced toward the land, but if it changed to north or north-west, away to sea we must go and perish!
Seriously alarmed, we consulted as to what was best to do—whether at once to hasten shoreward, or remain in the igloo and stand the chance. On shore, nothing but rugged precipices and steep mountains presented themselves; on the ice, we were in danger of our foundation giving way—that is, of being broken up, or else driven to sea. At length we decided to remain while the wind lasted in its present quarter, and, to guard as much as possible from any sudden movement taking us unawares, I kept within sight my delicately-poised needle, so that the slightest shifting of the ice on which we were encamped might be known.
In the evening the gale abated, and by 10 p.m. it was calm, but the heavy sea kept the ice creaking, screaming, and thundering, as it actually danced to and fro! It was to me a new but fearful sight. When I retired to bed I laid down with strange thoughts in my mind, but with the conviction that the same protecting hand would watch over me there as elsewhere.
The night passed away without alarm, and in the morning Koodloo made an opening with a snow-knife through the dome of the igloo for peering out at the weather. He reported all clear and safe, and, after a hot breakfast, we packed and started, though under great difficulty and hazard.
The ice had given way, and was on the move in every direction. The snow was also very deep—sometimes above our knees—and moreover very treacherous. We could hardly get along; and the poor dogs, which had been near starving since we had left the ship (Esquimaux dogs endure starvation, and yet work, amazingly), had to be assisted by us in pushing and hauling the sledge, while constant precaution was needed against falling through some snow-covered ice-crack. Every now and then we came to openings made by the gale and heaving sea. Some, of these were so wide that our sledge could hardly bridge them, and a détour would have to be made for a better spot. At other places we had to overcome obstructions caused by high rugged ice that had been thrown up when masses had been crushed together by the tremendous power of the late storm.
To guard against and extricate ourselves from these dangers, yet find a track amid the hummocks around, each of us by turns took the lead, and in this manner we proceeded on our way; but it was evident we had hardly strength enough to persevere in reaching our destination that night. By 2 p.m. we were so exhausted that I deemed it best to make a halt, and use a little more of the slender stock of provisions I had with me, and which, owing to our being so much longer on the way than expected, had become very low. Each of us, therefore, had a slice of raw salt pork and a quarter of a biscuit. This, however trifling, gave renewed strength, and again we pushed forward, hauling, scrambling, tumbling, and struggling almost for our lives.
It was dark ere we got near the locality where our next encampment was to be made, and where, in fact, we intended to remain a while for the purpose of hunting and sealing, and myself exploring.
At length we caught sight of an igloo which afterward proved to be Ugarng's, and, as soon as we saw it, fresh efforts were made to get nearer, but we found our passage more and more obstructed by the broken, upturned ice. Often the sledge was carried onward by making it leap over these impediments, sometimes from one point of ice to another, and at others down and up among the broken pieces. Finally we succeeded in reaching the shore ice, which we found all safe and sound, and in a short time more we were alongside of Ugarng's igloo, encamped on the southwest side of Rogers's Island, overlooking Cornelius Grinnell Bay and the mountains surrounding it.
Immediately I ran into Ugarng's igloo, and obtained some water to drink, for I must mention that all day long we had been famishing on account of thirst. The material to make water had been abundant around us—beneath our feet, here, there, and everywhere—but not a drop could be obtained, owing to our fire-lamp and equipments not being in use. Thus it was most thankfully I received the warm-hearted welcome given me by Nikujar, family wife No. 1 of Ugarng, as she handed a cup of refreshing cold water. Then I remembered how, on one occasion at the ship, this same woman, with her infant, came and asked me for water, which I gladly gave to her, with something else. Now she gave it to me.
I should mention that, in winter, water is most precious to the natives. It is made only by melting snow or ice over the ikkumer (fire-lamp), which is an expensive heat and light when oil and blubber become scarce; and in this case our materials for fuel were all expended.
While our own igloo was being erected, Ugarng and his second wife arrived from sealing, and, to the joy of all, brought with him a fine seal. He generously supplied us with what we wanted, and thus an excellent supper was added to cheerful light and genial warmth from the now well-fed lamp.
My fourth night in an igloo, on this journey, was spent more comfortably than the previous two had been, and on the following morning I rose greatly refreshed and strengthened. As I looked upon the expanse over which we had passed, I was startled to find the ice all gone out to sea. This was confirmed by a view shortly afterward obtained from the top of a mountain behind our igloos, and I felt truly grateful to Heaven for having so preserved us.
During the day I took a walk on shore, and the two Esquimaux went sealing. They returned at night with a fine prize, which made us an excellent feast; and, as my own stock of provisions was exhausted, except a trifle I reserved in case of sickness, this supply was most timely.
On the following day, January 15th, Ebierbing and Koodloo departed, with the sledge and dogs, on a hunting excursion, and I went away to examine the locality around. During my walk over the hills I came across numerous tracks of rabbits, and I also saw in the distance several prominent headlands that were familiar to me from noticing them when we first arrived here in the ship.
While rambling about, I fortunately preserved myself from a severe frostbite in the face by taking the precaution of carrying a small pocket mirror which belonged to Tookoolito. I had asked the loan of it, knowing how necessary it was, when one is alone in those regions, to have a detector of frostbites; and I found the use of a mirror in such a case equivalent to the companionship of another person.
That night I was alone with Tookoolito and Punnie; the latter Ugarng's third wife, she having come to our igloo to keep company with us until the husbands returned. It was very cold—the thermometer down to 57° below freezing point. Now my usual sleeping-place was between Ebierbing and Koodloo; but they being absent, I had to lay on the general bed, wrapped in my furs and blankets. During the early part of the night my feet were almost frozen. I tried all I could to keep them warm, but in vain. At last a smooth low voice reached my ear:
"Are you cold, Mr. Hall?"
I answered, "My feet are almost frozen. I cannot get them comfortable."
Quick as thought, Tookoolito, who was distant from me just the space occupied by little Punnie (that is, Punnie slept in the middle), got down to the foot of her bed; thence she made passage for her hands directly across my feet, seizing them and drawing them aslant to her side. My modesty, however, was quieted when she exclaimed,
"Your feet are like ice, and must be warmed Innuit fashion!"
Tookoolito then resumed her place beneath her tuktoo furs, intermingling her hot feet with the ice-cold ones of mine. Soon the same musical voice said,
"Do your feet feel better?"
I responded, "They do, and many thanks to you."
She then said, "Well, keep them where they are. Goodnight again, sir."
My feet now were not only glowing warm, but hot through the remainder of the night. When I awoke in the morning, as near as I could guess, there were no less than three pairs of warm feet all woven and interwoven, so that some difficulty was experienced to tell which were my own.
Ebierbing and Koodloo did not return until the next evening, bringing with them some black skin and krang—all the success attending them—which was obtained from a caché made the previous fall by the natives when our ship was in the bay. The black skin was compelled to be our food, as nothing better could be had; and at supper I ate heartily of the raw frozen whale hide.
The following noon a very heavy snow-storm came on, and continued throughout the next and two following days, confining us almost entirely to the igloo, myself obliged to live on black skin, krang, and seal.
On Sunday, the 20th of January, ten days after leaving the ship, we found ourselves in a sad state from actual want of food. The weather continued so bad that it was impossible to procure any by hunting, and all we had hitherto obtained was now consumed, except a very small portion held in reserve. I had intended sending Koodloo back to the ship for supplies, but waited for more suitable weather. This morning, however, it was absolutely necessary an attempt should be made, and as Koodloo refused to go alone, I decided upon proceeding with him.
We expected to be obliged to make one night's encampment on the sea ice, now again, so far as we knew from that around us, compact, and we hoped to reach the ship on the following day. My only preparation was a sleeping bag and shawl, with a carpet sack of sundries, and half a pound of baked mutton, which I had carefully preserved to the present moment.
At 8 a.m. we were in readiness, with a sledge and team of 12 dogs, most of them nearly starved. Bidding adieu to Ebierbing and Tookoolito, Koodloo and I started on our journey.
At first, much hummocky ice impeded the way, but this we got through, and I anticipated a speedy trip. I was, however, disappointed. Soon, deep snow appeared; and though we struggled for some miles due south, it was at length evident that to go on like that would be impossible. Occasionally the sledge and dogs contrived to get forward pretty well, but often they were so buried as to be almost out of sight. Koodloo seemed to think of giving it up, and I was so weak as to be hardly capable of dragging myself along. While in this dilemma as to what we should do—go on, or return to the igloo—I perceived Ebierbing and Ugarng on their way toward us.
They had noticed my difficulty, and Ebierbing now came on snow-shoes to offer his services in going to the ship in my stead. I accepted the proposal, and he, with Koodloo, went forward, Ugarng going in another direction, seeking for seal-holes, while I, slowly and with difficulty, owing to my weakness, returned to the igloo. I was a long time getting back, and when I arrived there was obliged to throw myself on the snow platform quite exhausted.
Toward evening, the weather then being fine, I walked on to a hill that overlooked the bay, and with my glass saw Ebierbing and Koodloo slowly wending their way along near where our second igloo had been erected, the former leading. That night and the following day I was hardly able to move. My weak state, owing to want of food—all my daily fare being a small piece of black or whale skin—had become very serious.
In the evening I went to Ugarng's. He had just returned from sealing, having been out two days and one night over a seal-hole. All the reward he had, however, for his patient exertions was the seal coming up and giving a puff; then away it went, leaving Ugarng a disappointed Innuit. But he bore his disappointment very philosophically. He said, in his native tongue, "Away I go to-morrow morning again!"
The next morning, which was very fine, Ugarng and Jack went out sealing again, while I visited several portions of the island. The following day Ugarng returned once more unsuccessful, though he had remained all night over the seal-hole. This was very bad for the whole of us. We could not now have even a fire-light until another seal was captured; and when I called at Ugarng's, I found they were in the same condition. Nikujar (Polly) was alone, except her infant and Kookooyer, their daughter by George. They were without light. Her child was restless, and she said the cause was hunger. "Me got no milk—meat all gone—blubber too— nothing to eat—no more light—no heat—must wait till get seal."
While I waited, the second wife came in and said Ugarng was still watching over a seal-hole. Jack soon afterward returned without success. Sad—very sad! My own state was bad enough, and I felt it severely; but I could not bear to witness the wants of the poor people around me, having no power to relieve them, unless Ebierbing should soon come back with some provisions from the ship. All that I had to eat was my piece of black skin, and this I relished. Indeed, I could have eaten anything that would have gone toward keeping up the caloric within me, and make bone and flesh.
One night I asked Tookoolito if I might try the taste of some blackened scraps that hung up. I knew that she had reserved these for the dogs, but nevertheless I had an uncontrollable longing for them. I was very hungry. Tookoolito replied that she could not think of my eating them—the idea made her almost sick; therefore I did not urge the matter more; but soon afterward I saw they were gone, Punnie (Ugarng's third wife) having taken them, and passed the whole into her own stomach!
Ugarng came in late again unsuccessful, and Tookoolito gave him a cup of tea, such as it was, for, owing to the absence of proper light and fuel, it could not be well made. Directly he had it, off he went once more to try for seal.
The next morning Ebierbing had not returned, and we were all at our wits' end to find something to eat. At length Tookoolito made out to cut off some of the white from a piece of black skin. From it she "tried" out sufficient oil to use for heating some snow-water, which, when warmed, was thickened with Indian meal, a few handfuls having been found remaining of the small quantity I had brought with me. The quantity of meal did not weigh above two ounces, yet it seemed to "loom up" as it was incorporated in the tepid water, and the incident strongly reminded me of the good woman and Elijah of Bible history. Tookoolito, with whom I shared the meal, thought the "pudding" excellent, and so did I. Indeed, I shall not readily forget that breakfast, even—as I wrote at the time—"if I live to enjoy a thousand more dainty ones in my native home."
HEAD AND ANTLERS OF THE ARCTIC REINDEER.
- ↑ For route of this sledge-trip, see track on Chart. From Rescue Harbour, lat. 62° 52′ N. long. 64° 44′ W. over land to Tuk-e-lik-e-ta Bay; thence on the sea ice to Rogers's Island, lat. 63° 12′ N. long. 64° 32′ W.