Lisbon and Cintra
WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF OTHER CITIES AND HISTORICAL SITES IN PORTUGAL. WRITTEN BY A. C. INCHBOLD. ILLUSTRATED BY STANLEY INCHBOLD
CHATTO & WINDUS
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CHAPTER I Lisbon—Its general aspect and happy situation—The chief squares—The beauty of its gardens—Modernity of buildings—The Great earthquake—Pombal—The enterprise of the Portuguese—The electric cable—The Ascensores—Fountains of Lisbon. 1 CHAPTER II Relics of ancient architecture—The Sé or Cathedral of Lisbon—The Manuelino style of architecture—Vasco da Gama—The Castello of St George—A panoramic view—The old quarter of city—Local colour of narrow streets and hills—The Churches of S. Vicente da Fora and of Graça—Royal Pantheon—A Weekly Pilgrimage. 21 CHAPTER III Avenida da Liberdade—Campo Grande—The Park of Edward VII—The Bull Ring, Colyseu and Theatres—Monuments and statues of note—The Botanical Gardens—Ruins of the Carmo—St Roques—Chapel of St John the Baptist—Lottery tickets and the Casa da Misericordia. 37 CHAPTER IV Belem—Its Cathedral, Convent and historical tower—The Palace of Belem—Ajuda Palace and Park—The Cortes (Houses of Parliament)—The National Archives—The Jesuits in Lisbon, past and present—Transformation of monastic houses. 52 CHAPTER V The Great Aqueduct—Ancient conduits—The Reservoir, or mother of waters—English Cemetery—Fielding's grave—Dos Prazères—The Estrella—Its famous Basilica and Gardens—The Cable Cars—Largo of Luiz de Camões—The Lusiad—The Academy of the Bellas Artas—Art in Portugal. 67 CHAPTER VI The National Library—An Old Franciscan Convent—The Municipal building—The Pelourinho—Fish Market—The Quays—The women of the markets—The Tagus and its boats—Old landmarks—The King and Queen—Palace of the Necessidades—The Church of the Madre de Deus. 81 CHAPTER VII Old House of the Bicos—The Church of San Domingo and the Inquisition—The Theatre on site of ancient Court of the Inquisition—The safety of streets—An excellent system of patrolling the outlying suburbs—Town dairies—The amiable disposition and humanity of the Portuguese—The cleanliness of the poor in Lisbon—General characteristics. 91 CHAPTER VIII The Riviera of Portugal—Mont' Estoril—Cascaes the Trouville of Portugal—Almada and its ancient Fort—Royal Quinta of Alfeite—Setubal or St Ubes—The Castle of Palmella—Ancient City of Evora. 101 CHAPTER IX Opposed opinions concerning Cintra—Its ancient reputation—Palace of Queluz—The Moors in Cintra—Castle of Cintra—Historic rooms—Manuel the Fortunate—Alfonso, the royal prisoner—Plans of rescue—Moorish tiles—Bathing grotto—Remarkable chimneys—The kitchen, ancient and modern—The Queen Dowager, D. Maria Pia—Trees and shrubs of Cintra—Monuments on the Roofs—Names of note: Beckford, Byron, Southey—The Convention of Cintra—The Palace of Seteais and its garden—The Marquis of Marialva. 132 CHAPTER X The Pena Verde and its chapels—The giant—João de Castro—His tragic end—Bella Vista—Monserrate and its tropical glen—The Cork Convent—The Quinta and historic Church of Piedade—Collares and its wines—Praia das Maçãs, the shore of apples—Rocks of the Atlantic Coast—Old legend. 152 CHAPTER XI The hills of Cintra—The Palace of Pena—An ancient Moorish Castle—The ruins of the mosque—Vasco da Gama's return—Unrivalled prospect from the dome of the palace—Park and villas or the slopes of the hills—São Pedro village—The historic villa of Ramalhão—The Prison—Soldiers on guard—The market—The peasants—Bullock teams and mules—Mafra—Its Church, Monastery and Palace—Joāo V and his vow—The famous bells—The library. 168 CHAPTER XII Valley of the Tagus—Santarem—Thomar—Roman Relics—Santa Irene—The River Nabão—Castle and Church of the Knights Templars—Gualdim Paes—The Moors—Prince Henry the Navigator—Convent of Christ—The famous Chapter House—The Cloisters—Torres Vedras—Historic Lines of fortification. 182 CHAPTER XIII Vallado—The Valley of the Alcoa—A hermitage dating from 1182—The Cistercian Abbey of Alcobaça—Alfonso Henriques, the founder—Peter I and Ignez de Castro—The cloisters—King Diniz—The Sala dos Reis—The Abbey sacked by the French—Batalha, the Battle Abbey of Portugal—The famous battlefield of August 14, 1385—The baker's wife, a Portuguese Jeanne d'Arc—Philippa of Lancaster—English builders—The Capellas Imperfeitas—Architectural comparisons. 199 CHAPTER XIV Calippo of the Romans—A ruined castle of King Diniz—The first printing press in Portugal—A river sung by poets—Coimbra—The beauty of its situation—The University—The students—Upper and lower towns—The River of the Muses—The place of the Inquisition—The Old Cathedral—The Monastery of Santa Cruz—Quinta das Lagrimas. 217 CHAPTER XV
Bussaco—A national gift to a Crown Prince—Fertility of vegetation—The Cintra of the North—The vine country—English wine merchants—Marquis of Pombal and the great Wine Company—The Passage of the Douro—Oporto—The French occupation—The Siege of 1832—The present Constitutional Monarchy—A result of Dom Miguel's defeat—A survey of the modern city and its environs—Braga, the Mecca of devout Portuguese—Bom Jesus and the Whitsuntide pilgrims.
The Town of Thomar Frontispiece Praça do Commercio To face p. 6 Lisbon from the Castello of St George 20 The Castello of St George from the Graça 36 The Tower of Belem 54 The Estrella Gardens 70 The Basilica of the Estrella 78 Fishing Boats in the Tagus 84 Praça de Dom Pedro 92 The Portuguese Riviera 100 The Fort, Cascaes 108 The Temple of Diana, Evora 122 Winter in Cintra 132 The Moorish Palace, Cintra 136 Entrance to the Moorish Palace, Cintra 142 The Garden of the Quinta do Relogio 148 The Palace of Pena from Seteais 152 The Tropical Glen, Monserrate 156 General View of Cintra from the Plain 162 The Palace of Pena 168 A Road in Cintra 172 Largo da Rainha D. Amelia 176 A Street in Cintra 182 Evening, Cintra 188 The Convent of Christ, Thomar 194 The Cloisters of D. Diniz, Alcobaça 204 The Abbey of Batalha 215 The Castle Hill, Leiria 222 Coimbra and the River Mondego 230 The Monastery of Bussaco 238