Maps of Old London/Ogilby

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OGILBY'S MAP OF LONDON

Description.—This is more exclusively a plan of the City than any we have yet considered. It runs roughly from the Tower to Lincoln's Inn Fields, and the reason why it is thus limited is that it was made as a survey to assist in the plotting out of land in the City after the Fire.

Designer.—John Ogilby was born about 1600, and did not turn his attention to surveying until he was about sixty-six, when he secured the appointment as "King's Cosmographer and Geographical Printer." He died in 1676, the year before his map was published. He was assisted in the work by William Morgan, his wife's grandson, and most of the actual engraving of the map was done by Hollar.

Original.—The original is 8 feet 5 inches by 4 feet 7 inches, and is in twenty sheets. It is on the scale of 100 feet to the inch. It may be seen in the British Museum (Crace Collection) and in the Guildhall. The two examples differ a little, and that in the Guildhall has an additional sheet. The reproduction here given is taken from that made by the London and Middlesex Archæological Society from the British Museum copy. The arms of the City are in the left-hand top corner, and those of Sir Thomas Davies, Lord Mayor 1676-77, in the right-hand corner.

Details.—Beginning at the left-hand top corner, we find pastures, bowling-greens, and market-gardens. Aylesbury House, next to St. John Street, has magnificent private gardens, and beyond the Charterhouse bowling-green there is a wood. Further east the Honourable Artillery Company, which had been revived by Cromwell, can be seen, with their equipment and tents. This company is directly descended from the Finsbury Archers, whom we noted in the last map, and it is interesting to know that the actual ground on which they are here depicted is still reserved for their use. Moorfields is neatly laid out and planned, and south of it is new Bethlehem Hospital, now transferred across the river. Eastward, again, there is a large open space at Devonshire House Garden, and southward innumerable gardens can be seen, some of which are preserved to this day behind City halls, etc., but so hidden that no one who did not know of their existence could possibly find them.

On tracing the line of the City wall on the north side we see how some of the churches, notably St. Giles's and St. Botolph's, have taken a part of the town ditch for the enlargement of their churchyards; near St. Bartholomew's the town ditch is still marked. This ditch caused the Mayor and Council as much worry as the increase of houses, because it was the receptacle for every kind of filth, and its cleansing annually swallowed up a large sum of money. The Fleet River is shown flowing down in the open, and is called the New Canal. It is crossed by a bridge at Holborn and another at Fleet Street. We can mark the sinuous line of the great thoroughfare of Holborn as it was before the viaduct and approaches were made. The Strand outside Temple Bar shows the obstructions which have only finally been removed in our own time. Butcher Row disappeared first in 1813; other streets followed to make way for the new Law Courts, and with the destruction of Holywell Row and the opening of Kingsway the improvements here may be considered complete.

To the south are the great houses of Essex and Arundel, with their gardens; their names are preserved in the streets that flow over their sites. Somerset House, the Protector's palace, was then standing, and did not make way for its present representative for another hundred years. The river is covered with wherries, clustered as thickly as ants. It is still the main highway for most people, though there were hackney coaches for hire. There was still only London Bridge by which to get across the river on foot, and the boats were used as ferries. There were tilt-boats, too, as well as the smaller wherries; these ran at stated intervals, like our own omnibuses, and were protected by an awning. Near the Fleet mouth is Bridewell, once a palace, and the scene of the meeting of Parliament, but given by Edward VI. to be a prison. On the east is a blank space, where is now the station of the London Chatham and Dover Railway Co., who purchased it in 1844. The site of St. Paul's was plotted out, but not yet built upon. In fact, the rebuilding of the houses was the first consideration, and was done with remarkable promptness, for in the meantime the poor houseless wretches were camping on Moorfields. The churches and city halls were therefore left to the last; yet even so we may see that, though only eleven years had elapsed since the destruction of the City, about twenty churches had been rebuilt out of the eighty-seven that were destroyed. The picturesque Old London of the gable-ends and overhanging stories was gone, never to return; but gone also was a great deal of rubbish and an insanitariness never afterwards quite so bad. As for the overcrowding, we must see what Sir Walter Besant says:

"If we look into Ogilby's map, we see plainly that as regards the streets and courts London after the Fire was very much the same as London before the Fire; there were the same narrow streets, the same crowded alleys, the same courts and yards. Take, for instance, the small area lying between Bread Street Hill on the west and Garlick Hill on the east, between Trinity Lane on the north and Thames Street on the south: is it possible to crowd more courts and alleys into this area? Can we believe that after the Fire London was relieved of its narrow courts with this map before us? Look at the closely-shut-in places marked on the maps—'1 g., m. 46, m. 47, m. 48, m. 40.' These are respectively Jack Alley, Newman's Rents, Sugar-Loaf Court, Three Cranes Court, and Cowden's Rents. Some of these courts survive to this day. They were formed, as the demand for land grew, by running narrow lanes between the backs of houses and swallowing up the gardens. There were 479 such courts in Ogilby's London of 1677, 472 alleys, and 172 yards, besides 128 inns, each of which, with its open courts for the standing of vehicles and its galleries, stood retired from the street on a spot which had once been the fair garden of a citizen's house" (London in the Time of the Stuarts, p. 280).

THE FOLLOWING EXPLANATIONS ARE EXTRACTED FROM OGILBY'S KEY TO THE MAP IN THE BRITISH MUSEUM

We Proceed to the Explanation of the Map, containing 25 Wards, 122 Parishes and Liberties, and therein 189 Streets, 153 Lanes, 522 Alleys, 458 Courts, and 210 Yards bearing Name.

The Broad Black Line is the City Wall. The Line of the Freedom is a Chain. The Division of the Wards, thus oooo. The Parishes, Liberties, and Precincts by a Prick-line, .... Each Ward and Parish is known by the Letters and Figures Distributed within their Bounds, which are placed in the Tables before their Names.... The Wards by Capitals without Figures. The Parishes, &c., by Numbers without Letters. The Great Letters with Numbers refer to Halls, Great Buildings, and Inns. The Small Letters to Courts, Yards, and Alleys, every Letter being repeated 99 times, and sprinkled in the Space of 5 Inches, running through the Map, from the Left Hand to the Right, &c. Churches and Eminent Buildings are double Hatch'd, Streets, Lanes, Alleys, Courts, and Yards, are left White. Gardens, &c. faintly Prick'd. Where the Space admits the Name of the Place is in Words at length, but where there is not room, a Letter and Figure refers you to the Table in which the Streets are Alphabetically dispos'd, and in every Street the Churches and Halls, Places of Note, and Inns, with the Courts, Yards, and Alleys, are named; then the Lanes in that Street, and the Churches, &c. as aforesaid, in each Lane.

The several Marks and Names of the Wards, Parishes, and Liberties

Wards

A Faringdon Without I Dowgate R Aldersgate
B Faringdon Within K Broad-Street S Billingsgate
C Bainard-Castle L Cornhil T Lime-Street
D Bread-Street M Cheap U Langborn
E Queen-Hith N Bassishaw W Portsoken
F Cordwainers O Coleman-Street X Aldgate
G Walbrook P Bishopsgate Y Candlewick
H Vintry Q Cripplegate

CripT Tower

Z Bridg

Parishes and Liberties

01. St. James Clerkenwel

02. St. Giles Cripple-Gate
03. St. Leonard Shoreditch
04. Norton-Folgate Liberty
05. St. Botolph Bishopsgate
06. Stepney
07. St. Stephen Coleman Street
08. Alhallows on the Wall
09. St. Andrew Holborn
10. St. Giles in the Fields
11. St. Sepulchers
12. St. Mary Cole-Church
13. St. Botolph Aldersgate
14. St. Alphage
15. St. Alban Wood Street
16. St. Olave Silver Street
17. St. Michael Bassishaw
18. Christ Church
19. St. Anne Aldersgate
20. St. Mary Staining
21. St. Mary Aldermanbury
22. St. Olave Jewry
23. St. Martin Ironmonger Lane
24. St. Mildred Poultry
25. St. Bennet Sherehog
26. St. Pancras Soaper Lane
27. St. Laurence Jewry
28. St. Mary Magdalen Milk Street
29. Alhallows Hony Lane
30. St. Mary le Bow
31. St. Peter Cheap
32. St. Michael Wood Street
33. St. John Zachary
34. St. Martins Liberty
35. St. Leonard Foster Lane
36. St. Vedast, alias Foster
37. St. Michael Quern
38. St. John Evangelist
39. St. Mathew Friday Street
40. St. Margaret Lothbury
41. St. Bartholemew Exchange

42. St. Christophers

43. St. Mary Woolnoth
44. St. Mary Woolchurch
45. St. Michael Cornhil
46. St. Bennet Fink
47. St. Peter Poor
48. St. Peter Cornhil
49. St. Martin Outwich
50. St. Hellens
51. St. Ethelborough
52. St. Andrew Undershaft
53. Alhallows Lumbard Street
54. St. Edmond Lumbard Street
55. St. Dionis Back-Church
56. St. Katherine Cree-Church
57. St. James Dukes Place
58. St. Katherine Coleman
59. St. Olave Hart Street
60. St. Botolph Aldgate
61. St. Mary White Chapel
62. Trinity Minories
63. St. Bartholemew the Great
64. Alhallows Staining
65. Alhallows Barking
66. St. Mary Abchurch
67. St. Nicholas Accorn
68. St. Clement East Cheap
69. St. Bennet Grace-Church
70. St. Gabriel Fenchurch
71. St. Margaret Pattons
72. St. Andrew Hubbart
73. Dutchy Liberty
74. St. Clement Danes
75. Rolls Liberty
76. St. Dunstan in the West
77. White Fryers Precinct
78. St. Bridget
79. Bridewel Precinct
80. St. Anne Black-Fryers
81. St. Martin's Ludgate
82. St. Gregories

083. St. Andrew Wardrobe

084. St. Bennet Paul's Wharf
085. St. Peter
086. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish-Street
087. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby
088. St. Austine
089. St. Margaret Moses
090. Alhallows Bread-Street
091. St. Mildred Bread-Street
092. St. Nicholas Olave
093. St. Mary Mounthaw
094. St. Mary Somerset
095. St. Michael Queen Hith
096. Trinity
097. St. Mary Aldermary
098. St. Thomas Apostles
099. St. Michael Royal
100. St. James Garlick-Hith
101. St. Martin Vintry
102. St. Antholin's
103. St. John Baptist
104. St. Stephen Walbrook
105. St. Swithin
106. St. Mary Bothaw
107. Alhallows the Great
108. St. Faith's
109. St. Leonard East Cheap
110. St. Laurence Poultney
111. St. Martin Orgar's
112. Little Alhallows
113. St. Michael Crooked Lane
114. St. Magnus at the Bridg
115. St. Margaret New Fish-Street
116. St. George Botolph Lane
117. St. Botolph Billingsgate
118. St. Mary Hill
119. St. Dunstans in the East
120. Little St. Bartholemews
121. Tower Liberty
122. St. Katherines

LIST OF PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS IN OGILBY & MORGAN'S MAP, 1677

COMPILED FROM THE MAP AND KEY
The References on the left of the names refer to the marginal numbers on the Map

002-5. Ailesbury's House, Earl of, A7

07-18. Aldgate

10-17. Alhallows Barking Church

09-10. Alhallows Bread-street Church

11-12. Alhallows Church, Great

11-12. Alhallows Church, Little

07-10. Alhallows Hony Lane Church [site absorbed into Hony Lane Market]

09-14. Alhallows Lombard Street Church

05-14. Alhallows on the Wall Church

09-17. Alhallows Staining Church, Mark Lane

009-6. Apothecary's Hall, C1

05-12. Armorers Hall, Coleman Street, A65

011-1. Arundel House

05-10. Barber Chyrurgeons Hall, A59

06-15. Barnadiston's House, Sir Samuel, B61

006-3. Barnard's Inn

006-3. Bell Inn, Holborn, A83

008-6. Bell Savage Inn, Ludgate Hill, B77

003-6. Berkley's House, Lord, A11

06-14. Bethlehem, New

06-15. Bishops Gate

006-3. Black Bull Inn, Holborn, A84

006-3. Black Swan Inn, Holborn, A81

010-9. Blacksmith's Hall, C29

07-11. Blackwel Hall, B49

07-11. Blossom's Inn, B48

006-9. Bludworth's House, Sir Thomas, Maiden Lane, B3

009-4. Bolt and Tun Inn, Fleet Street, B98

06-10. Brewers Hall, Addle Street, B7

08-17. Brick-Layers Hall, Leaden Hall Street, C52

009-6. Bridewell

009-6. Bridewel Precinct Chapel, Bride Lane

003-9. Bridgwaters House, Earl of, A18

006-2. Brook House

10-11. Buckingham's House, Duke of, C19

006-8. Bull and Mouth Inn, Bull and Mouth Street, A98

10-15. Butchers Hall, C39

009-2. Chancery Office, Chancery Lane, B73

003-6. Charter House

007-7. Christ Church, Newgate Street

007-7. Christ Hospital

07-12. Clayton's House, Sir Robert, Old Jewry, B52

009-1. Clements Inn

006-9. Clerks Hall, Silver Street, B4

009-3. Clifford's Inn

09-16. Cloth Workers Hall, Mincing Lane, C25

006-9. Cooks Hall, Aldersgate Street, C50

06-11. Coopers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B14

009-9. Cordwainers Hall

05-10. Cripple Gate

05-10. Curryers Hall, London Wall, A60

007-2. Cursitor's Office

11-17. Custome house

09-12. Cutlers Hall, Cloak Lane, C21

006-5. David's House, Sir Thomas. Snow Hill, B34

05-16. Devonshire House, A73

009-9. Doctors Commons, C10

003-7. Dorchester's House, Marquess of, A13

07-14. Drapers Hall, B57

06-14. Dutch Church

11-13. Dyers Hall, New Key, Thames Street

08-16. East India House, Leaden Hall Street, B88

006-4. Ely House

010-1. Essex House

06-14. Excise Office, Broad Street, C60

10-15. Fiery Pillar, The [The Monument]

11-14. Fishmongers Hall, Thames Street

009-6. Fleet Bridg

008-5. Fleet [Prison]

07-12. Founders Hall, Loathbury, B56

07-12. Frederick's House, Sir John, Old Jewry, B51

07-14. French Church, B62

006-3. Furnival's Inn

006-6. George Inn, Holborn Bridg, A92

09-10. Gerrard's Hall Inn, C16

05-11. Girdlers Hall, A63

03-10. Glovers Hall, Beech Lane, A20

007-9. Goldsmiths Hall, Foster Lane, B39

005-1. Gray's Inn

07-15. Gresham Colledge

003-7. Grey's House, Lord, A14

08-12. Grocers Hall, B53

07-11. Guild Hall

07-10. Haberdashers Hall, B8

07-12. Hern's House, Sir Nathiel, Loathbury, B54

004-6. Hicks's Hall

007-5. Holborn Bridge

0——  [Holy] Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [see Trinity Church]

0——  [Holy] Trinity Minories Church [see Trinity Minories]

009-3. Inner Temple, Inner Temple Lane

10-12. Inn-Holders Hall, Elbow Lane, C34

08-17. Ironmongers Hall, Fenchurch Street, B91

11-11. Joyners Hall, Fryer Lane, Thames Street, C37

006-5. Kings Arms Inn, Holborn Bridg, A90

009-7. King's Printing House, C3

05-11. Lariner's Hall, Fore Street, A78

07-16. Lawrence's House, Sir John, Great St. Hellens, B67

08-15. Leaden Hall Market

06-16. Leather-Sellers Hall

007-2. Lincoln's Inn

010-1. Lions Inne

11-14. London Bridg

005-8. London House, A57

009-7. Ludgate

09-10. Lutheran Church, Trinity Lane (N.E. corner Little Trinity Lane)

08-11. Mercer's Chapel

08-14. Merchant-Taylors Hall

10-12. Merchant-Taylors School, Suffolk Lane, C39

009-3. Middle Temple, Middle Temple Lane

08-10. Milkstreet or Hony lane Market

0——  [Monument, The, see "Fiery Pillar"]

09-17. Navy Office, Mark Lane, C26

010-1. New Inn

002-4. New Prison, or Bridewel, Clerkenwel Green

002-4. Newcastle's House, Duke of, A6

007-6. Newgate

008-7. Newgate Market

10-10. Painters Stainers Hall

08-17. Papillion's House, Mr. Tho., Fenchurch Street, C54

06-14. Pay Office, Broad Street, B22

08-16. Pewterers Hall, Lime Street, C62

007-7. Physicians College, B37

06-14. Pinner's Hall, B21

06-10. Plaisterers Hall, Addle Street, B6

06-15. Post Office, General, Bishopsgate Street Within, B59

08-12. Poultry Compter, B83

009-8. Prerogative Office, St. Paul's Church Yard, C6

008-4. Red Lyon Inn, Fleet Street, B75

007-5. Rose Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A91

08-14. Royal Exchange

007-9. Sadler's Hall, Cheapside, B41

09-13. Salter's Hall, St. Swithins Lane, C23

006-5. Sarazens Head Inn, Snow Hill, A93

009-6. Scotch Hall, C2

006-9. Scriveners Hall

009-3. Serjeant's Inn, Chancery Lane, B97

009-4. Serjeant's Inn, Fleet Street

008-6. Session House, The, Old Bayly

009-8. Sheldon's House, Sir Joseph, St. Paul's Church Yard, C7

008-2. Simond's Inn, Chancery Lane, B71

05-11. Sion College, A61

009-2. Six Clarks Office, Chancery Lane, B72

10-12. Skinners Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C33

005-6. Smithfield Penns

011-1. Somerset House

06-10. St. Alban Wood-Street Church

05-11. St. Alphage Church, London Wall

006-4. St. Andrew Holborn Church

10-15. St. Andrew Hubbart Church, Little East-Cheap [formerly S. side, between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane]

08-16. St. Andrew Undershaft Church, Leaden Hall Street, B66

010-7. St. Andrew Wardrobe Church

006-9. St. Anne Aldersgate Church

009-6. St. Anne Black-Fryers Church

09-12. St. Antholine's Church, Budg Row

008-9. St. Austine's Church

005-7. St. Bartholemew Church, Great

006-7. St. Bartholemew's Church, Little

08-13. St. Bartholemew Exchange Church

006-7. St. Bartholemew's Hospital

08-13. St. Bennet Fink Church

08-15. St. Bennet Grace Church

010-8. St. Bennet Pauls Wharf Church

08-11. St. Bennet Sherehog Church

009-6. St. Bridget's Church

006-9. St. Buttolph Aldersgate Church

06-19. St. Buttolph Aldgate Church

11-15. St. Buttolph Billingsgate Church [formerly S. side of Thames Street between Buttolph Lane and Love Lane]

05-16. St. Buttolph Bishopsgate Church

08-13. St. Christophers Church

010-1. St. Clement Danes Church

09-14. St. Clement's Eastcheap Church

009-3. St. Dunstan's Church

10-16. St. Dunstan's in the East Church

09-14. St. Edmond Lumbard Street Church

06-16. St. Ethelborough Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [immediately N. of Little St. Hellens]

009-8. St. Faith's Church [under-St.-Paul's]

09-16. St. Gabriel Fenchurch Church [absorbed into the roadway of Fenchurch Street, between Rood Lane and Mincing Lane]

10-15. St. George Buttolph Church, C40

04-10. St. Giles's Cripplegate Church

009-8. St. Gregory's Church [site absorbed by St. Paul's]

07-16. St. Hellen's Church

07-18. St. James Dukes Place Church, Dukes Place

10-11. St. James Garlick Hith Church

09-12. St. John Baptist Church

009-9. St. John Evangelist Church, Friday Street [formerly E. side, at the corner of Watling Street, having the latter street on the north]

006-9. St. John Zachary Church, Maiden Lane

08-17. St. Katherine Coleman Church

08-17. St. Katherine Cree Church, Leaden Hall Street, B68

10-13. St. Laurence Poultney Church

07-11. St. Lawrence Jewry Church

10-15. St. Leonard East Cheap Church

007-9. St. Leonard Foster-Lane Church

11-14. St. Magnus Church, Thames Street, C59

09-13. St. Mary Abchurch Church

06-11. St. Mary Aldermanbury Church

09-11. St. Mary Aldermary Church

09-12. St. Mary Bothaw Church

06-11. St. Mary Cole Church, Cheapside [formerly S.W. corner of Old Jewry]

10-16. St. Mary Hill Church, C43

08-10. St. Mary le Bow Church

07-10. St. Mary Magdalen's Church, Milk Street [site absorbed into Hony lane Market]

010-9. St. Mary Magdaline Old Fish Street Church

010-9. St. Mary Mounthaw Church

010-9. St. Mary Somerset Church

006-9. St. Mary Staining Church, Oat Lane

08-12. St. Mary Wool Church [site absorbed into Wool Church Market]

08-13. St. Mary Woolnoth Church, Lumbard Street [opposite Pope's Head Alley]

07-12. St. Margaret Loathbury Church

009-9. St. Margaret Moses Church, Friday Street [formerly S.W. corner of Basing Lane]

09-15. St. Margaret Patton's Church

10-15. St. Margaret's New Fish Street Church [site absorbed by the Monument]

07-11. St. Martin Ironmonger Church, Ironmonger Lane [formerly adjoining the west end of St. Olave Jewry]

008-7. St. Martin Ludgate Church

10-13. St. Martin Orgar's Church

07-15. St. Martin Outwich Church, Bishopsgate Street Within [S.E. corner of Thread Needle Street]

10-11. St. Martin Vintry Church

008-9. St. Mathew Friday Street Church

09-10. St. Mildred Bread-Street Church

08-12. St. Mildred Poultry Church, B84

06-11. St. Michael Bassishaw Church

08-14. St. Michael Cornhil

10-14. St. Michael Crooked Lane Church

10-10. St. Michael Queen Hith Church

007-9. St. Michael Quern Church, Cheapside [site absorbed into roadway of Cheapside at junction of Pater Noster Row and Blow Bladder Street]

09-11. St. Michael Royal Church

007-9. St. Michael Wood-Street Church, B45

09-13. St. Nicholas Acorn Church

009-9. St. Nicholas Cole-Abby Church, Old Fish Street (N.W. corner of Old Fish St. Hill)

09-10. St. Nicholas Olave's Church, Bread-Street Hill [formerly near middle of W. side]

09-17. St. Olave Hart-street Church, C27

07-12. St. Olave Jewry Church

05-10. St. Olave Silver Street Church

08-11. St. Pancras Soaper Lane Church

009-8. St. Paul's Cathedral

009-8. St. Paul's House, Dean of, St. Paul's Church Yard, C5

11-18. [St. Peter-ad-Vincula] Church, Tower of London

07-10. St. Peter Cheap Church

06-14. St. Peter Poor Church

010-8. St. Peter's Church

08-14. St. Peter's Cornhil

007-6. St. Sephlcher's Church

06-12. St. Stephen Coleman Street Church, B56

09-12. St. Stephen Walbrook Church

10-12. St. Swithin Church, Cannon Street

09-11. St. Thomas Apostles Church, St. Thomas Apostles

007-9. St. Vedast Church, B40

006-2. Staple Inn

008-7. Stationers Hall

006-5. Swan Inn, Holborn-Bridg, A89

06-10. Swan with Two Necks Inn, Ladd Lane, B11

09-12. Tallow Chandlers Hall, Dough-Gate Hill, C22

010-3. Temple Church

005-9. Thanet House, A58

006-4. Thavy's Inn, Holborn, A86

11-19. Tower, The

0——  Trinity Church, Trinity Lane [site occupied by Lutheran Church, which see]

10-17. Trinity House, Water Lane, C45

08-19. Trinity Minories Church, B70

009-8. Turners House, Sir William, St. Paul's Church Yard, C4

11-11. Vintonners Hall

08-13. Vyner's House, Sir Robert, Lumbard Street, B85

10-13. Ward's House, Sir Patient, Lawrence Poultney's Hill, C38

006-1. Warwick House

11-13. Watermans Hall, New Key, Thames Street, C28

11-13. Waterman's House, Sir George, Thames Street, C57

07-10. Wax Chandellors Hall, Maiden Lane, B43

06-11. Weavers Hall, Bassishaw Street, B13

08-17. Whitchurch House, Leaden Hall Street, C53

10-11. Whittington's College, College Hill, m15

07-10. Wood Street Compter, B46

09-12. Wool Church Market


Maps Of Old London Ogilby.jpg