Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine/Chapter 14

by Edward Hull

CHAPTER XIV.

MARCH FROM ES SAFIEH AND JEBEL USDUM.

The morning of Thursday, 27th December, saw our deliverance from the enforced captivity of The Ghôr. We were up before daybreak, for we knew that we had a long day's march before us, and much to see on the road. The baggage was distributed amongst the mules, and we selected our riding horses; and so well was everything done that by 8 a.m. we were in the saddle, and headed by Sheikh Seyd, as guide to the passage across the slimy plain, we were wending our way amongst the thickets of Es Safieh. We were a merry party; light of heart as boys leaving school for the holidays. Our cavalcade consisted of 30 horses and mules, the four camels which had come from Cairo, and were now to return through part of the way with us, and four mounted soldiers who had arrived by forced marches from Hebron during the night. We took farewell of Sheikh Seyd at the edge of the marsh, and bent our steps towards the foot of Jebel Usdum—that mysterious tabulated hill we had so often contemplated from the eastern side of The Ghôr.

Having halted for a litte, we commenced to examine the cliffs of Jebel Usdum, and to penetrate some of the caves which open into their sides. These caves give egress to the torrents which issue forth after rain, and along their walls the rock salt is constantly melting. Hart and Laurence scrambled up to the summit of the cliff, and for the first time the upper surface of this remarkable saliferous plateau was examined by a European.^[1] The difficulties of both reaching and traversing its upper surface are considerable, owing to the holes and fissures by which the strata are penetrated. Mr. Hart informs me that the upper surface is composed of shales and marls with gypsum and selenite, much broken, and not consolidated. They do not at all resemble the limestone strata of the Cretaceo-nummulitic formation, of which the adjoining table-land is composed, and with which they are grouped by Lartet. There are also fine sandy bands with pseudomorphs of salt crystals, all indicating lacustrine conditions.

At the cave I examined, immense masses of the rock salt had fallen down quite recently; and further north, where the rock is traversed by vertical joint planes, there have been large dislodgments of the sides of the clitf, supposed to have been due to an earthquake; while the rock-salt uusupported by the firmer sides, has been bent along the faces of the joints by the superincumbent weight of materials. This remarkable phenomenon is represented in the adjoining sketch. Fig. 17.

The lower part of Jebel Usdum is formed of solid bluish rock-salt, which reaches a thickness from 30 to 50 feet, and this is capped by beds of marl, salt, and gypsum ; while below the rock-salt are beds of gravel, shale, and laminated sandstone, often crushed out and lying in heaps at the base of the cliffs. There was no doubt in the mind of myself, or of any of our party, that this salt mountain is a portion of the ancient bed of the Salt Sea, and the elevation of its upper surface, 600 feet above the waters of the sea itself, confirms this view.^[2]

Mr. Hart furnishes the following account of the upper surface of this hill:—

"On Thursday, the 27th of December, when passing under the eastern base of Jebel Usdum, en route from Es Safieh to Gaza, it occurred to me that the salt cliffs of that unique eminence did not look by any means so inaccessible as writers had led me to suppose. Choosing a point about half-way in its length on the steep eastern face, I scrambled up the rock-salt and white powdery marls which partly covered it for about 200 feet;—my friend, Mr. Reginald Laurence, following me; after that there was no further difficulty. The solid mineral salt appeared to cease at about 100 or 150 feet, and the remainder of the elevation was a cap of marl. The salt is cut and broken into all sorts of glacier-like crevasses and ugly black holes visible for another hundred feet or so. A slip down one of these treacherous caverns, where ice is replaced by glittering salt, and snow by white marl, would produce a well-preserved museum specimen for future naturalists. The marl is here scooped out by water action into blocks and beds and mounds of dust, often half concealing the pits. After a while the cracks are filled (at least as I passed over them I hoped so), and in about a mile I reached the base of the inner ridge, the highest point of which my aneroid gave me at 600 feet above the Dead Sea. In many places this marl, the ancient floor of the Dead Sea, is solidified into calcareous crusts and blocks of various degrees of consistency; and frequently crystals of selenite, in stellate patches, from 1 to 3 inches across, of a pale brown colour, lie on the surface. The central ridge is about 200 yards from the western edge of Jebel Usduni, and forms its axis, lying north and south magnetic. An easier descent would bring one down to an inner wady, sloping north and south from a central height of about 400 feet above the Dead Sea, or 200 below the summit. Thus this mountain of salt, or rather of marl with a foundation of salt, is completely isolated. Its length is about six miles. It would be easy to ascend Jebel Usdum from either end, or from the inner wâdy between it and the limestone declivities of Judæa about a mile beyond. The summit corresponds accurately with the height of the conspicuous marls all round the southern base of the Dead Sea. I estimated their levels in Wâdy Arabah, and in two or three places in the ravines, and on the cliff sides to the east and south-east of our encampment in The Ghor near Es Safieh, and their upper limit always lay somewhere been 600 and 650 feet.

"From the plateau on the summit of Jebel Usdum there descends a gully to the north, which one would imagine it would take a wider watershed to form. Down this we descended, Laurence having joined me on the top, by a cutting through deep smoothly-sliced walls of marl, white and unspeakably dusty. Often these are finely and beautifully laminated with great regularity, showing the ancient planes of deposition. No trace of organic matter could be detected in them. Nevertheless, at the very summit almost, were the burrows of a small rodent (I believe the porcupine mouse Acomys dimidiatus, Gray); and a solitary sparrow-hawk, perched on the highest point, was hardly induced to make room for me. A couple of tamarisk bushes reminded me of botany, and about six other species of plants, all of the Desert type, were noted in the upper hundred feet. As we descended straggler after straggler appeared in the dry water-course; and by the time we reached the wide Muhauwat Wâdy at the north-west corner of Jebel Usdum, some forty thirsty feverish grey weeds had put in their appearance. Here our successful little detour was somewhat marred by finding we had caused our comrades alarm, and our ever-watchful guardian had been induced to send Bedawins to scour the country for us. We availed ourselves of the delay by a swim, or rather wade, in the Dead Sea, an experience which I shall ever recall with a pious horror of smarting eyes and inflamed scratches."

While exploring the shores of the Salt Sea, I saw evidence which convinced me that its waters are still receding. A terrace of gravel stretches from the base of the salt cliffs outwards towards the margin of the sea to a distance, in some places, of 30 yards; it then abruptly terminates in a descent of about 5 feet to the line of drift wood which marks the upper limit of the waters. That the gravel terrace was originally the bed of the Salt Sea does not admit of a doubt, so that since it was laid dry the waters have fallen to the extent (5 feet) above indicated. The formation of this terrace must be of very recent date, but that may be over a thousand years. When the waters covered the terrace they washed the base of the cliffs of the salt mountain, which they do not now appear to be ever able to reach.

We lunched on this terrace by the shores of the sea, in which some of our party were courageous enough to bathe. My aneroid marked 32° 1′, which, according to the determination of the Ordnance Survey, would mean for that day 1,292 feet below the level of the Mediterranean.

Leaving the shores of the Salt Sea, and the northern extremity of the Jebel Usdum, we crossed the stony bed of the Muhauwat, which sometimes sweeps down from the interior, and is joined by that of the Zuweirah, so that the combined effects of these torrents is to cover an area of about half-a-mile with great piles of shingle and large blocks of limestone and chert. Here it was that Canon Tristram started a herd of twenty-two gazelles; but we were not so fortunate.

As the sun was now approaching the horizon, and we had done a good deal in the way of exploration, we would gladly have camped at the base of the hills to the north of Jebel Usdum, but the time at our disposal did not permit of so leisurely a progress. Our stations had been arranged beforehand, and our mules with the tent-equipage were far in advance; it was therefore necessary to press onwards, and we turned our horses' heads up the bed of the Wâdy Zuweirah, along which the only practicable path to Beersheba and Gaza lies. The pathway through the windings of this ravine was steep, and often difficult, owing to the slippery surface of the limestone ledges; but our good steeds never lost their footing. Often the walls of rock, constructed of beds of limestone and dark chert,^[3] rose high above our heads, while the terraces of marl, sand, and gravel, belonging to the ancient Salt Sea bed, might be observed clinging to the sides of the older formation, and running up the branching ravines to a level of about 600 feet above the waters of the Salt Sea. It was clear from the relations of these two formations that this deep glen had been hollowed out before it had been invaded by the waters of the sea. At a subsequent period these rose to a level of about 600 feet above the present surface; and while wearing down the walls of the valley allowed the beds of marl and gravel by which the valley itself was partially filled up to be accumulated; when again the waters fell away, and receded to their present level, the torrent channelled out its bed chiefly through these softer materials, which, by their lighter colours as well as by their composition, can be easily distinguished from the older limestone strata.^[4]

We passed the interesting ruins, described by Canon Tristram, and referred by him to the period of the Crusades,^[5] though referred by Dr. Robinson, to the Saracens, and continuing our course ultimately attained to the upper surface of the table-land. The sun was now setting, and we had yet several miles of broken country to cross before reaching our camp in the Wâdy el Abd. It soon became pitch dark; but fortunately two of our Arabs from Hebron were well acquainted with the path, which they tracked with wonderful sagacity; while our horses managed to keep their footing, even when sliding down into a rocky ravine, the floor of which was quite invisible, at least to my eyes; or when climbing some slippery bank. Mile after mile was traversed in the darkness, and yet no kindly light gleamed forth amid the encircling gloom to indicate the place of our camp. At length, as we were beginning to fear we had lost our way, or had passed the camping ground in the darkness, Gordon appeared on the top of a bank holding a lantern and pointing out the way. On arriving we found ourselves inside a stony glen, the floor of which had to be cleared of stones before the tents could be pitched, and nothing was prepared for our reception. Cold and weary with a march of twelve hours or more, we went down to join our Arab escort, who, seated around their fires, were preparing the evening meal. They politely welcomed us, spread their sheepskins on the ground for us to rest on, and then proceeded to prepare coffee for us ere partaking of any themselves. After awhile our tents were got ready, and throwing ourselves on our beds "tired nature's sweet restorer—balmy sleep," soon came to our relief.

The next morning we were up and off betimes, and we continued our ascent towards the table-land by a path which wound along the sides of the limestone hills, sometimes crossing ledges of bare slippery rock, on which our horses had much ado to keep their footing. In some places the rounded form of the hills, the close herbage, and the numerous sheep-tracks running along the sides, reminded me of the chalky downs of the South of England; and we noticed several flocks of white sheep and black goats of the Jâhâlin Arabs pasturing on the fresh grass and tender herbs which the recent rains were causing to spring up. On reaching the summit we noticed a large cairn a short distance to our left, on which Major Kitchener had planted his theodolite; and, assisted by Mr. Armstrong, was taking bearings on several prominent points and objects which here came into view. We were now at an elevation of about 3,500 feet above the Salt Sea, and consequently we were in a commanding position for a view in every direction. Far below, towards the east, was the deep depression of The Ghôr, holding in its spacious lap the blue waters of the Salt Sea. Beyond the hills and table-land of Moab, and towards the south-east, the green oasis of Es Satieh, which had sheltered us for so many days. The whole surroundings of the sea, except the northern end, lay spread out before us like a map. There was the Lissân, projecting far into its waters from the eastern side, its white surface glistering in the morning sun. Far away towards the south were seen the range of hills bordering the Wâdy el Arabah, and conspicuous amongst the several heights rose the conical summit of Mount Hor. At our feet the limestone hills resembled a continuous sea of ridges and furrows, tumultuously thrown together, and presenting every variety of brown, yellow, and light green shades amongst the hollows, while the dark brown beds of chert imparted definite form and outline to the ridges and scarps. The white table-land of Jebel Usdum, deeply scored and furrowed, was just visible behind the darker cliffs of limestone to the south of our position. The cairn on which we stood was of large dimensions, about 50 feet in diameter, circular in form, and constructed of large blocks of chert. The centre was hollow and about 10 feet in depth; it probably marks the grave of some great chief.

We camped for luncheon on the rolling plains of "The Wilderness of Paran," which, if the hollows were cultivated, might produce abundant crops of wheat and other grain. The only inhabitant now is the Jâhâlin shepherd and his flock, and a few wild animals. In some places the herbage was freckled over with multitudes of little white snails (Helix seetzeni and H. vesialis), covering the ground and climbing lip the desert-plants, which appeared as if sprinkled with snow. Along with these were a few specimens of a shell in form like a small Trochus, of a brown colour, and the whorls handsomely sculptured (H. tuberculosa). I presented the specimens to Mr. Hart for description. The plains are entirely treeless—neither tree nor shrub are to be seen for miles; nevertheless, the ground was green with herbs, small plants, and grass; and amongst them could be distinguished, even at this early season, cyclamens, a pretty little marigold, and a mallow in much esteem with the Arabs as a vegetable. Flocks of small birds, such as larks, wagtails, starlings, green plover, and pin-tailed grouse, abounded, and imparted somewhat of life to the otherwise desolate landscape. In the afternoon we pitched our tents at Tel-el-Milh, the Moladah of the Bible,^[6] where water is always to be found. From the reference to Moladah, Beersheba, and other cities with the villages thereof, it seems evident that the tract of country, through which our road towards Gaza lay, had been largely inhabited both before and after the Captivity;—but how great is now the change! Of the works of man little remain but a few wells, which fortunately preserve the names of the original sites, together with the foundations of stone walls, or small mounds of stone, bricks, and pottery. The physical features alone remain; the hills, valleys, river channels, and brook courses are probably much as they were in the time of the prophet Nehemiah, or even earlier. The patriarchs and prophets gazed on the same hills, valleys, and plains that we do now; and in reading the sacred records we recognise the careful accuracy of the references to these phenomena on every hand. There is, as it seems to me, some satisfaction in this reflection; and in surveying the landscape one is tempted to recall the pathetic lines of Sir Walter Scott, as applied by him to the natural scenery of his native land—

"It seems to us of all bereft,
Sole friends thy hills and vales are left;
And thus we love them better still,
E'en in the extremity of ill."

The wells of Tel-el-Milh are sunk about 60 yards from the river bank—one shallow and dry, the other deep and containing water. They are of excellent construction, built throughout of hewn blocks of limestone in regular courses; the depth to the water I estimated at 60 feet. The edge stones are deeply grooved by the ropes of men who have drawn water therefrom during a period of perhaps three thousand years; and in an outer circle round the well are ranged nine large stone troughs for cattle to drink out of. These are supported in position by little piles of stones.^[7]

We arrived at Beersheba early in the afternoon of Saturday, and pitched in the vicinity of “Abraham’s Wells”, which, like those of Tel-el-Milh, are sunk a few yards from the river’s brink. The reason for this

Fig. 18. — Abraham's Well, Beersheba.

is obvious. The well-sinker knew that the chances of a constant supply were greatest in the low ground which borders a river’s bank, and that the water from the river itself would find its way by percolation into the well. Yet are the wells themselves at a sufficient elevation to prevent the river water, which is generally turgid, from getting direct access to the water of the wells. In the selection of the sites, as well as in the execution of the work, there has, therefore, been displayed both judgment and skill; while it must have been a work requiring both strength and perseverance to hollow out of the hard limestone rock, of which this region is formed, wells of such depth and excellence of construction. Captain Conder states that the depth of the larger well is over 45 feet, lined with rings of masonry to a depth of 28 feet, and he made a discovery which, as he remarks, was rather disappointing, namely, that the masonry is not very ancient. Fifteen courses down, on the south side of the large well, he found a stone with an inscription in Arabic on a tablet dated 505 a.h., that is, in the twelfth century.^[8] This discovery, however, does not throw any doubt on the antiquity of the wells themselves, but may only refer to the date of their restoration from a state of previous dilapidation.

Beersheba and its surroundings have been so often described that it is not my intention to dwell further on this most interesting locality. It was a reward of many a day's toil to stand on the spot where dwelt the Father of the Faithful; to drink of the same well of which he drank; and to look upon the same scenes which, day after day for several years of his eventful life, met his gaze. The history of the Patriarch becomes on this spot a vivid reality.

We had now reached the southern margin of the tract included in the Ordnance Survey Map of Western Palestine.^[9] All the way between Tel-el-Milh and Bir es Seba (Beersheba) the country is strewn with ruins of walls and foundations of buildings, showing how thickly it was once inhabited. Now, the land is "desolate, almost without inhabitant;" for during the fourteen miles of march between these places, we only twice fell in with human beings: on one occasion a Bedawin; on the other, fellahin ploughing with their camels.

The pressure on our time, the expense consequent on our detention in The Ghôr, and prospective detention in Gaza, forbade the idea of the usual Sunday rest; we therefore pressed on for another day's march to Tel Abu Hareireh, a distance of about fifteen miles. The country we traversed consisted of an undulating plain, over the sides and hollows of which was spread a deep covering of loam of a very fertile nature; while from time to time horizontal beds of white chalky limestone cropped out along the sides of the valleys. The district is extensively cultivated by the Terabhi Arabs, and by little parties of fellahin, who annually squat down for the season between sowing and reaping, living with their families in tents pitched in sheltered spots. Here the camel is largely used for ploughing, one camel being equal to two oxen, and the tall gaunt form of "the ship of the desert" might often be seen against the sky-line moving slowly along in front of the plough and the plougher. This was a kind of work at which some of us had not hitherto seen the camel employed. The extent of ground here cultivated, as well as all the way to Gaza, is immense, and the crops of wheat, barley, and maize must vastly exceed the requirements of the population. In fact, large quantities of agricultural produce raised in this jiart of Palestine are annually exported from Jaffa and other towns; and as we approach the western seaboard the cultivation improves, till about Gaza, El Medjel, and Jaffa, it attains a degree of excellence scarcely surpassed by that of Italy, France, or England.

We camped by the side of a running stream at the foot of Tel Abu Hareireh, on which is placed the tomb of the distinguished personage of that name. Our dragoman, Ibraham, who is a great authority on all matters connected with "the Prophet," informed me that Abu Hareireh was one of the "companions" of Mohammed, and a great scribe and commentator on the Koran. How he came to die, and be interred in this out-of-the-way spot, is a point on which my informant was unable to throw light. The spot, however, was of other interest to us, for here we came into contact with a new geological formation, hitherto, as I believe, unrecognised, but which occupies an extensive area stretching through the land of Philistia northwards to the base of Mount Carmel. This formation consists of rather hard yellow calcareous sandstone, traversed by joint planes similar to those of the limestone. I was unable anywhere to observe a junction between the two formations, but judging by the general position of the strata throughout this part of Palestine, there can be little doubt that the sandstone is newer than the limestone of the central plateau, which dips towards the west and passes below the sandstone in the direction of the Mediterranean sea-board. (See Geological Map.)

In the position and relations of these two sets of strata, we have, as it seems to me, an explanation of the features of Western Palestine. It is now generally known that the whole of the interior table-land of Judah, and of Ephraim, is formed of exceedingly hard beds of limestone. In the centre of the table-land the strata reach their highest altitude, and are in a nearly horizontal position; but along the western slope they dip westwards, as may be seen in the sections along the Jaffa and Jerusalem road at Bab-el-Wâdy, east of Ramleh.^[10] At the western margin of the table-land, which, commencing at Tel es Sherlah on the south, ranges northwards by 'Arak el Menshiyet, Kezâzeh, Eamleh, Ludd, Kalkilieh, and El Marâh to the sea at Mount Carmel, the limestone gives place to the yellow sandstone. This latter being of a much softer character, and having been denuded from off the upper surface of the limestone plateau, it has also been deeply worn down along the tract of Philistia, and the Plain of Sharon; in consequence of which, this tract is much depressed, and is at a lower level than that formed of the limestone beds. As regards the geological age of the sandstone formation, my impression is, that it forms an upper member of the Eocene Tertiary series, and that it was accumulated beneath the waters of the sea, mider conditions somewhat different from those which prevailed during the deposition of the Cretaceo-nummulitic limestone.^[11]

Another object of interest which attracted our notice in the Wâdy es Sheriah, when camped at Tel Abu Hereirah, was the presence of beds of calcareous sand and gravel, containing numerous shells of varieties now living in the Mediterranean, including species of the genera Pecten, Cardium, Ostrea, Dentalium, Turritella, and species of Echini. The aneroid showed that we were here about 200 feet above the level of the Mediterranean, so that we could not doubt we had again before us a portion of "the 200 feet raised beach," which we had seen along the shores of the Gulf of Suez, and to the north of the Gulf of Akabah. We subsequently noticed this raised sea-bed at intervals all the way to Jaffa, where its presence is marked by a sandy or gravelly terrace, containing numerous sea-shells, amongst which Pectunculus violascens, Purpura hemi'stoma, Murex brandaris, and Columbella rustica are the most abundant forms.^[12] This sea-beach runs up the valleys, and occupies the plains, of Western Palestine along the sea-board to a level of about 200 feet, as in the valley below Tel Abu Hareireh.

On the last day of the year 1883 we parted with our colleague, Major. Kitchener, who had arranged to return to Cairo, and thus escape detention in quarantine at Gaza. His departure was greatly regretted by us all. He had proved a most agreeable companion during our journeyings of nearly two months, while his knowledge of the Arab customs and language, and his skill in dealing with the Bedawins, proved of much service to the Expedition. Assisted by Mr. Armstrong, Major Kitchener had worked unsparingly, and under many difficulties, owing to the necessary rapidity of our movements, in order to produce a correct outline map of the district we had traversed between Mount Sinai and Southern Palestine. The necessary observations had now been made; and there was, therefore, no necessity that he should accompany us further, much less that he should subject himself to the restrictions of a quarantine detention. He, therefore, made arrangements with the four Hawatat Arabs, who had arrived when we were camping in The Ghôr, to return with them to Cairo, though by a road probably never before traversed by an Englishman; and ere we struck our tents for the day's march into Gaza, Kitchener, mounted on his little horse, and accompanied by his four Arabs on their camels, crossed the Wâdy es Sheriah, and taking a south-westerly line of march, made for Ismailia, which he ultimately reached in safety.^[13]

Our march towards Gaza lay over an undulating country, generally covered deeply with loam, and extensively cultivated by the Terabîn Arabs, whose camps we frequently passed. Numerous small plants were unfolding their petals under the influence of the warm sunshine, and amongst others the scarlet anemone (Anemone coronaria, Lin.), so rich and beautiful in colour that on seeing it for the first time I involuntarily exclaimed, "Surely this is the 'lily of the field'!"—a view in which Mr. Hart concurred.^[14] Numerous bulbous plants overspread the ground, but had not yet come into flower; and occasionally we came upon the leafy tuft of that peculiar plant, the mandrake (Mandragora officinalis), supposed to be the same as that mentioned in Genesis xxx, 14, with its purple bell-shaped flowers concealed within the interior of its "primrose-like" leaves.

About noon we reached Khurbet el Baha, an artificial mound, marked on the Ordnance Survey Map, about 120 feet across at the base, and 30 feet high. It is covered by broken pottery and pieces of slag, and commands an extensive prospect over the plains. Here we set up our luncheon tent and rested for a while. Just as we were preparing to remount our horses, an Arab Sheikh, gorgeously arrayed, with two attendants, and spear in hand, rode up towards our tent, and after the usual salutations, we inquired of him to what tribe he belonged. He replied, "I am Sheikh of the Tihyaha. All the lands you see around (waving his hand proudly) we have taken from the Terabîn, who have gone further south to the country of the Azâzimeh." After a little more conversation he bid us farewell and rode away. This Sheikh was certainly the finest representative of an Arab chief I had seen. What he had mentioned referred to a contest which had raged for several years between the Tihyaha and the Terabin tribes about the ownership of a tract of land in which the former were the victors. The Government were obliged ultimately to interfere; and, having sent a body of soldiers with guns into the district, compelled the Sheikhs of the respective parties to come to terms, the Terabîn being obliged to surrender a portion of their territory.

Shortly after starting, a herd of fifteen gazelles crossed our path in open order some distance ahead of us. It was the largest herd I had seen; and it was a beautiful sight to see these graceful animals bounding across the plain; of course, no one was prepared for this, and the gazelles passed unmolested by us. Coming to the foot of a low ridge which our path crossed, and from which we expected to get a sight of the Mediterranean and of Gaza in the foreground, we put our horses into a gallop, which, to do them justice, they were always ready to go in for. On reaching the summit, we had an extensive prospect. Gaza, our future prison, lay at the other side of an extensive and fertile plain, which swept away from our feet for several miles; beyond, was the broad blue streak of the Mediterranean, our pathway to Europe and home! Gaza itself looked inviting; charmingly situated on a low range of hills amongst palm-trees and olive gardens, while numerous flocks of sheep and goats, together with herds of cattle, were pasturing at intervals upon the plain. The sight of the sea raised our spirits, notwithstanding the prospect of imprisonment. Cantering along we passed a picket of soldiers belonging to the quarantine, and soon were winding our way through the gardens and hedgerows of cacti towards the sand-hills on the west of the city, where arrangements had been made by Bernhard Heilpern, who had preceded us, for our encampment. To the last we had flattered ourselves with the hope that our friends in Jerusalem had succeeded in getting a remission of the order for our imprisonment, and that Heilpern would have good news for us upon our arrival. But no! On the contrary, orders had come that we were to put in our fifteen days at Gaza. Amongst other letters was one from the British Consul, Mr. Moore, confirming the tidings, and recommending that, as he was unable to effect our release, I should telegraph to Lord Dufferin, the British Ambassador at Constantinople, asking his intervention on our behalf. This I lost no time in doing; and, as will be seen in the sequel, had an immediate reply of the most friendly kind. The delay to this extent would have proved a serious loss of time as well as of money, as we should have had to pay for, and support, not only ourselves, but our muleteers, and even our guard of soldiers, of whom three were placed as sentries round our camp. We estimated that, for the whole time, the cost would amount to £150, or possibly more.

We found our tents pleasantly situated, beneath a small grove of locust trees, tamarisks, and sycamores, in a hollow, bounded on one side by gardens, and on the other by sand-hills which stretched towards the sea-shore, and formed an excellent protection from the westerly winds. From the sand-hills behind our tents we had a good view of Gaza and the district towards the east, but the sea was completely hidden from our view. The Rev. Mr. Schapira, of the Church Missionary Society, was waiting to receive us, and to offer us every assistance in his power, and during our stay we were indebted to him for numerous friendly others. A budget of letters and papers, the first we had received since leaving Suez, gave us abundant occupation for the rest of the day, and we awaited with some equanimity the result of our application to Lord Dufferin.

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1. Tristram describes the face as "quite impracticable," "Land of Israel," p. 326; and Lartet speaks of it in similar language, "Voyage d'Exploration," vol. iii.
2. M. Louis Lartet states the thickness of the rock salt to be 20 metres, aud Hut the summit is formed of chalky limestone with bands of flint, belonging to the Cretaceo-nummulitic formation. In this view I am unable to concur; and possibly, if M. Lartet had been able to examine the summit himself, he would have arrived at a different conclusion.
3. Chert is a silicious stone often found in limestones, and like flint is very hard.
4. A drawing showing the relations of the ancient deposits of the Dead Sea to those of older date at W. Suweirali is given by Lartet, "Voyage d'Exploration," Plate II.
5. "Land of Israel," p. 356.
6. One of the outpost cities of Judah towards Edom (Josh, xv, 26; Nehem. xi, 26).
7. For a picture and account of these wells, see “The Land of Israel,” p. 374.
8. "Tent Work in Palestine." New edition, p. 246.
9. The district about Tel-el-Milh and Beersheba was surveyed by Captain Conder and Major Kitchener, assisted by Serjeant Armstrong, who, with the exception of the first, were now revisiting the scene of their former labours.
10. This is very well represented by Lartet in the " Coupe hypothetique á Jaffa a Shihan," supra cit., Plate II.
11. We examined this rock at Jaffa, Yazûr, Yebnah, Gaza, and other places, but were unable to discover the presence of fossils. It seems to be represented in Egypt by Sehweinfurth's "brauner kalksandstein" of the upper Eocene period. ("Ueber die Geol. Schichten d. Mokattam b. Cairo." "Abd. a, d. Zeit. d. Deuts. Geol. Gesellschaft." 1883.)
12. The first-named is by far the most abundant, as it is on the sea-shore at the present day. The other forms are much rarer, and are given by Lartet, supra cit., p. 170.
13. The distance was about 140 English miles, and he was everywhere well received by the Arabs whom he happened to meet.
14. On referring to the "Teacher's Oxford Bible," I find the scarlet anemone mentioned as most probably that with which our Lord contrasted the raiment of King Solomon. Canon Tristram entertains a similar view.