Ningpo to Shanghai in 1857/Sing-chong to Dzing
The temples, the only fine buildings at Sing-chong, are without the walls. The river bed which, at a distance from it of from one to two hundred feet, runs along the eastern wall, though shallow generally, is wide. In fact it is a double stream crossed from the east for lengths of two to three hundred feet each, with two bridges of stout planks and trussels. Between the stream and the wall the ground is covered with Mulberry and Tallow trees, over wheat and other cultivation. Indigo is cultivated in this region too. A short distance west of the city is a seminary for the education of respectable youth,—and a little beyond, it may be seen a five storied pagoda, crowning a hill overlooking the road from Sing-chong to Dzing. This pagoda marks the boundary of the Sing chong district.
Dzing, or Dzing Yuen, Yuen or heen signifying the chief city of a district,—lies about N. W. from Sing chong yuen;—though for a third or so of the distance of twelve miles between the two places, the road runs to the southward of west into a plain. Ten lē from the Tow-va-sze, is the hamlet of San-chee of Thirty families;—Four lē further, W. by N. is So-chee-deo, a hamlet of similar size; and Dow-chee, a village of 100 families lies a little beyond. The European traveller has no reason to complain of difficulty in getting along in this quarter. Dings, substantially roofed sheds, through which the roads run, open to all, are to be found at nearly every mile, and within them, or not far distant, are shops for the sale of good wheaten flour pancakes at two cash each, fresh boiled sweet potatoes at five cash a catty, rice congee at 2 cash the half pint basin, and a liquor not unlike stale small beer, a potation not over agreeable to all palates, fermented from rice, and sold hot at eight cash the gill. Hot gruel stands ready in some of the dings, Chinese taking it either as gruel at 2 cash the half pint basin, or, flavoured with soy, chopped onions and small dried shrimps as a soup, at 3 cash the basin. Half a dozen of the pancakes, and a couple of basins of the soup, form a good meal for a moderate man, and with five cash worth of tea can be obtained at a total of something under twelve cash—a penny. Hot water standing ready, the five cash worth of tea has a good many brewings when the traveller is thirsty before the leaves are thrown away.
The plain between Singchong and Dzing, bounded by huge granite bouldered hills, is studded with numerous villages—the stream bed winding here and there among the mulberry trees deep enough for bamboo rafts laden with bean cake and charcoal for more eastern markets
Two lé W. by N. from Dow-chee is Wong-nee-joh a small hamlet of 20 families, and a lé N.W. is Yuen maou, with 50 families. Many of the inhabitants of this quarter appear to be blind, or weak in the eyes; and no greater kindness can be shown to the poor creatures in passing than the gift of small parcels of blue vitriol, with written directions for dilution and use.
Dzing-yuen, is seventeen lé, nearly six miles, due north from Yuen-maou, over a splendid road, wide enough for a carriage and pair with outriders;—the surrounding country being not unlike the small arable downs of England. Approaching Dzing, the stream is again met running shallow and fast from the westward; crossing which the road, through groves and hedge rows of bamboos and mulberry trees, and fields of wheat and barley, is a perfect zig-zag, until it reaches a wider and deeper stream, crossed by a substantial starlinged bridge.
On the southern bank of the stream, skirting the suburbs of Dzing, is a small monastery, in which the foreign traveller can obtain quarters, though less luxurious than those of the Tow-va-sze. A tablet here records the setting off of a large tract of the river for the preservation of life; and fishing within it, in order than life may be sustained, is not allowed.
Very good boiled bread, in not less than four catties at a boiling, can be obtained at Dzing, if ordered over night, at 40 cash per catty. Buffalo milk is procurable too occasionally. The city walls, some three or four miles in extent, are in good condition; on the northern face running sharply up a hill for a considerable distance. Dzing is a quiet place, with the character of being the abode of many of the literati. Of general business there appears to be but little. A temple to Confucius, and some excellently carved stone work, are objects of attraction in the centre of the town. The condemnable custom of leaving the coffins of the dead above ground, is not practised here so freely as at Ningpo and other parts of the province; and for miles the hills in the spring time are seen covered with the white and pink flowers of plum and peach trees, among waving bamboos and small firs, over wheat, beans and clover.
With its character for learning, Dzing, too, as a consequence, perhaps, (after the classic witticism "Port wine and Greek") is said to harbour many opium smokers. Outside the abodes of such, however, but little of the effect of the practice is seen; and though all may be true that is told by missionary travellers of the result of their observations, it is a singular fact that plain men of the world in China have to strain both their optic and their olfactory nerves to discover that opium is at all made use of. This fact, however, is no answer to the many excellent and sage observations of those who entertain a penchant for condemning the use of luxuries to which they, themselves, have no inclanation.
Dzing, like most of the other district cities has much cultivated ground within its walls, and, excepting that such places afford a shelter to officers of Government, and aid in perpetuating the tyranny of the rulers, the benefit acccorded to the people by the existence of walled cities is problematical. There was a time, perhaps, when the richest men of the provinces were quartered within them;and there are indications of such a time in many of the houses now used for the commonest purposes. Taverns (Vanteens) in the suburbs—failing monasteries, the only quarters for the foreign traveller—are often found to be well arranged houses, with open courts in the centres, and avenues and partitioned rooms—built, evidently, for people who had some sense of taste and decency;but now, Oh, how filthy and begrimmed with dust! That a quiet, easily contented people are borne by their government to the ground with a more than night mare weight, and crushed of all spirit for a higher order of enjoyment than that possessed by the brute creature, is proclaimed at every step in silent speaking language, more eloquent than the wail of the western slave.