Ningpo to Shanghai in 1857/The Koon-foo-quan to Haou-foong
PROVINCE OF KIANG-SIU
DEPARTMENT OF HOO-CHOW.
A short distance from Koo-hoo-qui-show is Wei-zhong a hamlet of 100 families, and some two or three miles further on is Pek-ling-wo, a little distance from Choong-ching a hamlet of 90 families. Lime stone is the formation here, the rock out of which the path way is cut being as black and glossy as coal.
Timber is transported in raft in large quantities from this region;—poles such as would be used for scaffolding, being sold at the stream's edge for as low a rate as 50 cash a pecul—say two pence per hundred weight! Salt, the article brought in barter for the wood, costs, duty paid, 70 cash a catty—say three pence per pound!
From Choong-ching to Kow-jow, where, as the name implies, there is a high bridge, (curved granite slabs) of very good workmanship, the distance, in a north-easterly direction, is over five lē, and from Kow-jow to Chong-chuen a village of 200 families it is also five lē. But there is no need for giving the particular course from village to village on the route from the Confucian pass to Haou-foong-yuen, the chief city of the district entered on after leaving the Province of Anwhuy, the general direction being about E. N. E.—for the most part over paved roads and a level country, and by the beds of streams increasing in size as they progress from their sources around the Teen-muh-san.
From Chong-chuen to Toh-san, a village of 150 families, the distance due East is 5 lé—Amoo a village of 100 families being a little way beyond it. But these villages, and those of Cow-ka-hai of 150 families, Cheong-le of 80 families, Mo-sah of 50 families, and Tong-chin of 100 families, are all at little distances from each other. In a N.N.Wly direction from Cow-ka-hai, distant about five miles, is a curious finger shaped rock, standing erect and apart from the mountain adjacent. The ladies in this quarter wear pretty red serge gaiters, the serge being almost the only specimen of European manufacture to be seen in this part of the interior. Approaching Seen-hing-ling-sze, the quarters of two or three priests, an artist, with time for the work, will find a most interesting picture—Cliffs, cottages, pagodas and streams in sweet variety—and, if required, a room for a day or two without much inconvenience to the Hozhangs (priests).
Foong-sa-ven and Low-chee—the latter a village of a hundred families, the other the residence of two or three only, are but little distances beyond Tong chin. Tea Bushes are again seen in this locality, and proceeding onwards over a wide ford, and through a walled lane, for about five lé, the traveller arrives at a shrine of the Dragon God, close by which, in the grove by itself, is a small permanent Theatre of varnished wood. At Low-zhak-kong a village of 300 families, the country takes quite a level appearance, the hills each side becoming smaller and smaller as though they formed the end of a huge chain (27)—Leang-zak-you of some 20 families, Toong-djean of 1000, and Yah-kong-djow by a plank and trussel bridge of 21 apertures—say 250 feet long—are all at no great distance from the Low-zhak-kong mentioned.—The Strata in this quarter is of a blue black slate.
From Yah-kong-jow to Sac-wan-lee, a hamlet of 20 families, the distance, over eight lē, runs through a fine wood land, quite different from any thing the other side of the mountain range.
Some time before reaching Sac-wan-le a seven storied Pagoda S.E. of the city of Haoufoong meets the view; and in the suburbs of the city are the best quarters for the foreign traveller (poor enough) at the Kwan-ti-mew, or Temple of the God of War.
Haou-foong, or Shaou-foong-yuen is a poor apology for a walled city,—the walls, about a mile and a half round, being in some places broken away wide enough for a carriage and pair to be driven through. It as a decent place enough once, perhaps, and the city Temple on a level with the top of the south wall is a fine building. The shops in the western suburbs, however, far surpass those within; but it is a poor place for business, this being inferred from the want of silver in negotiations;— Money changers having the conscience to offer 600 cash only for the most beautiful Carolus dollar ever handled—800 cash in barter for Rice being an exteme price (28).