Notes on the State of Virginia (1802)/Query 02

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QUERY II.



A NOTICE of its rivers, rivulets, and how far they are navigable?

An inſpection of a map of Virginia, will give a better idea of the geography of its rivers, than any deſcription in writing. Their navigation may be imperfectly noted.

Roanoke, ſo far as it lies within this ſtate, is no where navigable, but for canoes, or light batteaux; and, even for theſe, in ſuch detached parcels as to have prevented the inhabitants from availing themſelves of it at all.

James River, and its waters, afford navigation as follows:

The whole of Elizabeth River, the loweſt of thoſe which run into James, River, is a harbor, and would contain upwards of 300 ſhips. The channel is from 150 to 200 fathoms wide, and at common flood tide, affords 18 feet water to Norfolk. The Strafford, a 60 gun ſhip, went there, lightening herſelf to croſs the bar at Sowell's Point. The Fier Rodrigue, pierced for 64 guns, and carrying 50, went there without lightening. Craney iſland, at the mouth of this river commands its channel tollerably well.

Nanſemond River is navigable to ſleepy hole, for veſſels of 250 tons; to Suffolk, for thoſe of 100 tons; and to Milner's for thoſe of 25.

Pagan creek affords 8 or 10 feet water to Smithfield, which admits veſſels of 20 tons.

Chickahominy has at its mouth a bar, on which is only 12 feet water at common flood tide. Veſſels paſſing that may go 8 miles up the river; thoſe of 10 feet draught may go four miles further, and thoſe of ſix tons burthen, 20 miles further.

Appamattox may be navigated as far as Broadways, by any veſſel which has croſſed Harriſon's bar in James' River; it keeps 8 or 10 feet water a mile or two higher up to Fiſher's bar, and 4 feet on that and upwards to Peterſburgh, where all navigation ceaſes.

James' River itſelf affords harbor for veſſels of any ſize in Hampton road, but not in ſafety through the whole winter; and there is navigable water for them as far as Mulberry iſland. A 40 gun ſhip goes to James' town, and, lightening herſelf, may paſs to Harriſon's bar, on which there is only 15 feet water. Veſſels of 250 tons may go to Warwick; thoſe of 125 go to Rocket's, a mile below Richmond; from thence is about 7 feet water to Richmond; and about the centre of the town, four feet and a half, where the navigation is interrupted by falls, which in a courſe of ſix miles, deſcend about 80 feet perpendicular: above theſe it is reſumed in canoes, and batteaux, and proſecuted ſafely and advantageouſly within 10 miles of the Blue Ridge; and even through the Blue Ridge a ton weight has been brought: and the expence would not be great, when compared with its object, to open a tolerable navigation up Jackſon's river and Carpenter's Creek, to within 25 miles of Howard's Creek of Green Briar, both of which have then water enough to float veſſels into the Great Kanhaway. In ſome future ſtate of population, I think it poſſible, that its navigation may alſo be made to interlock with that of the Patowmac, and through that to communicate by a ſhort portage with the Ohio. It is to be noted, that this river is called in the maps James River, only to its confluence with the Rivanna: thence to the Blue Ridge it is called the Fluvanna: and thence to its ſource, Jackſon's River. But in common ſpeech, it is called James River to its ſource.

The Rivanna, a branch of James River, is navigable for canoes and batteaux to its interſection with the South Weſt Mountains, which is about 22 miles; and may eaſily be opened to navigation through theſe mountains to its fork above Charlotteſville.

York River, at York town, affords the beſt harbour in the ſtate for veſſels of the largeſt ſize. The river there narrows to the width of a mile, and is contained within very high banks, cloſe under which the veſſels may ride. It holds 4 fathom water at high tide for 25 miles above York to the mouth of Poropotank, where the river is a a mile and a half wide, and the channel only 75 fathom, and paſſing under a high bank. At the confluence of Pamunkey and Mattapony, it is reduced to 3 fathom depth, which continues up Pamunkey to Cumberland, where the width is 100 yards, and up Mattapony to within two miles of Frazer's ferry, where it becomes 2½ fathom deep, and holds that about five miles. Pamunkey is then capable of navigation for loaded flats to Brockman's bridge, fifty miles above Hannover town, and Mattapony to Downer's bridge, 70 miles above its mouth.

Piankatank, the little rivers making out of Mobjack Bay and thoſe of the Eaſtern ſhore, receive only very ſmall veſſels, and theſe can but enter them.

Rappahannock affords 4 fathom water to Hobb's hole, and 2 fathom from thence to Frederickſburg.

Patowmac is 7½ miles wide at the mouth; 4½ at Nomony bay; 3 at Aquia; 1½ at Halooing point; 1¼ at Alexandria. Its ſoundings are, 7 fathom at the mouth; 5 at St. George's iſland; 4½ at Lower Matchodic; 3 at Swan's point, and thence up to Alexandria; thence 10 feet water to the falls, which are 13 miles above Alexandria. Theſe falls are 15 miles in length, and of very great deſcent, and the navigation above them for batteaux and canoes, is ſo much interrupted as to be little uſed. It is, however, uſed in a ſmall degree up the Cohongoronta branch as far as Fort Cumberland, which was at the mouth of Wills's creek; and is capable, at no great expenſe, of being rendered very practicable. The Shenandoah branch, interlocks with James river about the Blue Ridge, and may perhaps in future be opened.

The Miſſiſippi will be one of the principal channels of future commerce for the country weſtward of the Alleghaney. From the mouth of this river to where it receives the Ohio, is 1000 miles by water, but only 500 by land, paſſing through the Chickaſaw country. From the mouth of the Ohio to that of the Miſſouri, is 230 miles by water, and 140 by land. From thence to the mouth of the Illinois river, is about 25 miles. The Miſſiſippi, below the mouth of the Miſſouri, is always muddy and abounding with ſand bars, which frequently change their places. However, it carries 15 feet water to the mouth of the Ohio, to which place it is from one and a half to two miles wide, and thence to Kaſkaſkia from one mile to a mile and a quarter wide. Its current is ſo rapid, that it never can be ſtemmed by the force of the wind alone, acting on ſails. Any veſſel, however, navigated with oars, may come up at any time, and receive much aid from the wind. A batteau paſſes from the mouth of Ohio to the mouth of Miſſiſippi in three weeks, and is from two to three months getting up again. During its floods, which are periodical as thoſe of the Nile, the largeſt veſſels may paſs down it, if their ſteerage can be inſured. Theſe floods begin in April, and the river returns into its banks early in Auguſt. The inundation extends further on the weſtern than eaſtern ſide, covering the lands in ſome places for 50 miles from its banks. Above the mouth of the Miſſouri, it becomes much ſuch a river as the Ohio, like it clear, and gentle in its current, not quite ſo wide, the period of its floods nearly the ſame, but not riſing to ſo great a height. The ſtreets of the village at Cohoes are not more than 10 feet above the ordinary level of the water, and yet were never overflowed. Its bed deepens every year. Cohoes, in the memory of many people now living, was inſulated by every flood of the river. What was the eaſtern channel has now become a lake, 9 miles in length and one in width, into which the river at this day never flows. This river yields turtle of a peculiar kind, perch, trout, gar, pike, mullets, herrings, carp, ſpatula-fiſh of 50lb. weight, cat-fiſh of 100lb. weight, buffalo-fiſh, and ſturgeon. Aligators or crocodiles have been ſeen as high up as the Acanſas. It alſo abounds in herons, cranes, ducks, brants, geeſe, and ſwans. Its paſſage is commanded by a fort eſtabliſhed by this ſtate, five miles below the mouth of the Ohio, and ten miles above the Carolina boundary. The Miſſouri, ſince the treaty of Paris, the Illinois and northern branches of the Ohio, ſince the ceſſion to Congreſs, are no longer within our limits. Yet having been ſo heretofore, and ſtill opening to us channels of extenſive communication with the weſtern and north-weſtern country, they ſhall be noted in their order.

The Miſſouri is, in fact, the principal river, contributing more to the common ſtream than does the Miſſiſippi, even after its junction with the Illinois. It is remarkably cold, muddy, and rapid. Its overflowings are conſiderable. They happen during the months of June and July. Their commencement being ſo much later than thoſe of the Miſſiſippi, would induce a belief that the ſources of the Miſſouri are northward of thoſe of the Miſſiſippi, unleſs we ſuppoſe that the cold increaſes again with the aſcent of the land from the Miſſiſippi weſtwardly. That this aſcent is great, is proved by the rapidity of the river. Six miles above the mouth it is brought within the compaſs of a quarter of a mile's width: yet the Spaniſh merchants at Pancore, or St. Louis, ſay they go two thouſands miles up it. It heads far weſtward of the Rio Norte, or North River. There is, in the villages of Kaſkaſkia, Cohoes and St. Vincennes, no inconſiderable quantity of plate, ſaid to have been plundered during the laſt war by the Indians from the churches and private houſes of Santa Fé, on the North River, and brought to theſe villages for ſale. From the mouth of Ohio to Santa Fé are forty days journey, or about 1000 miles. What is the ſhorteſt diſtance between the navigable waters of the Miſſouri, and thoſe of the North River, or how far this is navigable above Santa Fé, I could never learn. From Santa Fé to its mouth in the Gulph of Mexico is about 1200 miles. The road from New- Orleans to Mexico croſſes this river at the poſt of Rio Norte, 800 miles below Santa Fé: and from this poſt to New Orleans is about 1200 miles: thus making 2000 miles between Santa Fé and New Orleans, paſſing down the North River, Red River and Miſſiſippi; whereas it is 2230 through the Miſſouri and Miſſiſippi. From the ſame poſt of Rio Norte, paſſing near the mines of La Sierra and Laiguana, which are between the North River and the river Salina to Sartilla, is 375 miles: and from thence paſſing the mines of Charcas. Zaccatecas and Potoſi, to the city of Mexico is 575 miles; in all, 1550 miles from Santa Fé to the city of Mexico. From New Orleans to the city of Mexico is about 1950 miles: the roads, after ſetting out from the Red River, near Natchitoches, keeping generally parallel with the coaſt, and about two hundred miles from it, till it enters the city of Mexico.

The Illinois is a fine river, clear, gentle, and without rapids; inſomuch that it is navigable for batteaux to its ſource. From thence is a portage of two miles only to the Chickago, which affords a betteau navigation of 16 miles to its entrance into lake Michigan. The Illinois, about ten miles above its mouth, is 300 yards wide.

The Kaſkaſkia is 100 yards wide at its entrance into the Miſſiſippi; and preſerves that breadth to the Buffalo plains, 70 miles above. So far alſo it is navigable for loaded bateaux, and perhaps much, further. It is not rapid.

The Ohio is the moſt beautiful river on earth. Its current gentle, waters clear, and boſom ſmooth and unbroken by rocks and rapids, a ſingle inſtance only excepted.

It is a ¼ of a mile wide at Fort Pitt:

500 yards at the mouth of the Great Kanhaway:

1 Mile and 25 poles at Louiſville:

¼ Of a mile on the rapids, three or four miles below Louiſville:

½ A mile where the low country begins, which is 20 miles above Green River:

1¼ At the receipt of the Taniſſee:

And a mile wide at the mouth.

Its length, as meaſured according to its meanders by Capt. Hutchins, is as follows:

From Fort Pitt:

Miles.
To Log's Town, 18½
Big Beaver Creek, 10¾
Little Beaver Creek, 13½
Yellow Creek, 11¾
Two Creeks, 21¾
Long Reach, 53¾
End Long Reach, 16½
Muſkingum, 25½
Little Kanhaway, 12¼
Hockhocking, 16 
Great Kanhaway, 82½
Guiandot, 43¾
Sandy Creek, 14½
Sioto, 48¼
Little Miami, 126¼
Licking Creek, 8 
Great Miami, 26¾
Big Bones, 32½
Kentucky, 44¼
Rapids, 77¼
Low country, 155¾
Buffalo River, 64¼
Wabaſh, 97¼
Big Cave, 42¾
Shawanee River, 52½
Cherokee River, 13 
Maſſac, 11 
Miſſiſipi, 46 

1,188

In common winter and ſpring tides it affords 15 feet water to Louiſville, 10 feet to Le Tarte's rapids, 40 miles above the mouth of the Great Kanhaway, and a ſufficiency at all times for light batteaux and canoes to Fort Pitt. The rapids are ill latitude 38° 8′. The inundations of this river begin about the laſt of March, and ſubſide in July. During theſe a firſt rate man of war may be carried from Louiſville to New Orleans, if the ſudden turns of the river and the ſtrength of its current will admit a ſafe ſteerage. The rapids at Louiſville deſcend about 30 feet in a length of a mile and a half. The bed of the river there is a ſolid rock, and is divided by an iſland into two branches, the ſouthern of which is about 200 yards wide, and is dry four months in the year. The bed of the northern branch is worn into channels by the conſtant courſe of the water, and attrition of the pebble ſtones carried on with that, ſo as to be paſſable for batteaux, through the greater part of the year. Yet it is thought that the ſouthern arm may be the moſt eaſily opened for conſtant navigation. The riſe of the waters in theſe rapids does not exceed 10 or 12 feet. A part of this iſland is ſo high as to have been never overflowed, and to command the ſettlement at Louiſville, which is oppoſite to it. The fort, however, is ſituated at the head of the falls. The ground on the ſouth ſide riſes very gradually. The Taniſſee, Cherokee or Hogohege River is 600 yards wide at its mouth, ¼ of a mile at the mouth of Holſton, and 200 yards at Chotee, which is 20 miles above Holſton, and 300 miles above the mouth of the Taniſſee. This river croſſes the ſouthern boundary of Virginia, 58 miles from the Miſſiſippi. Its current is moderate. It is navigable for loaded boats of any burthen to the Muſcle ſhoals, where the river paſſes through the Cumberland mountain. Theſe ſhoals are 6 or 8 miles long, paſſable downwards for loaded canoes, but not upwards, unleſs there be a ſwell in the river. Above theſe the navigation for loaded canoes and batteaux continues to the Long iſland. This river has its inundations alſo. Above the Chickamogga towns is a whirlpool called the Sucking-pot, which takes in trunks of trees or boats, and throws them out again half a mile below. It is avoided by keeping very cloſe to the bank, on the ſouth ſide. There are but a few miles portage between a branch of this river and the navigable waters of the river Mobile, which runs into the Gulph of Mexico.

Cumberland, or Shawanee River, interſects the boundary between Virginia and North Carolina, 67 miles from the Miſſiſippi, and again 198 miles from the ſame river, a little above the entrance of of Obey's River into the Cumberland. Its clear fork croſſes the ſame boundary about 300 miles from the Miſſiſippi. Cumberland is a very gentle ſtream, navigable for loaded batteaux 800 miles, without interruption; then intervene ſome rapids of 15 miles in length, after which it is again navigable 70 miles upwards, which brings you within 10 miles of the Cumberland mountains. It is about 120 yards wide through its whole courſe, from the head of its navigation to its mouth.

The Wabaſh is a very beautiful river, 400 yards wide at the mouth, and 300 at St. Vincennes, which is a poſt 100 miles above the mouth, in a direct line. Within this ſpace there are two ſmall rapids, which give very little obſtruction to the navigation. It is 400 yards wide at the mouth, and navigable 30 leagues upwards for canoes and ſmall boats. From the mouth of Maple River to that of Eel River is about 80 miles in a direct line, the river continuing navigable, and from one to two hundred yards in width. The Eel River is 150 yards wide, and affords at all times navigation for periaguas, to within 18 miles of the Miami of the lake. The Wabaſh, from the mouth of Eel River to Little River, a diſtance of 50 miles direct, is interrupted with frequent rapids and ſhoals, which obſtruct the navigation, except in a ſwell. Little River affords navigation during a ſwell to within 3 miles of the Miami, which thence affords a ſimilar navigation into Lake Erié, 100 miles diſtant in a direct line. The Wabaſh overflows periodically in correſpondence with the Ohio, and in ſome places two leagues from its banks.

Green River is navigable for loaded batteaux at all times 50 miles upwards; but it is then interrupted by impaſſible rapids, above which the navigation again commences, and continues good 33 or 40 miles to the mouth of Barren River.

Kentucky River is 90 yards wide at the mouth, and alſo at Boonſborough, 80 miles above. It affords a navigation for loaded batteaux 180 miles in a direct line, in the winter tides.

The Great Miami of the Ohio, is 200 yards wide at the mouth. At the Piccawee towns, 75 miles above, it is reduced to 30 yards; it is nevertheleſs, navigable for loaded canoes 50 miles above theſe towns. The portage from its weſtern branch into the Miami of Lake Erié, is 5 miles; that from its eaſtern branch into Sanduſky River, is of 9 miles.

Salt River is at all times navigable for loaded batteaux 70 or 80 miles. It is 80 yards wide at its mouth, and keeps that width to its fork, 25 miles above.

The Little Miami of the Ohio, is 60 or 70 yards wide at its mouth, 60 miles to its ſource, and affords no navigation.

The Sioto is 250 yards wide at its mouth, which is in latitude 38° 22′. and at the Saltlick towns, 200 miles above the mouth, it is yet 100 yards wide. To theſe towns it is navigable for loaded batteaux, and its eaſtern branch affords navigation almoſt to its ſource.

Great Sandy River is about ſixty yards wide, and navigable ſixty miles for loaded batteaux.

Guiandot is about the width of the river laſt mentioned, but is more rapid. It may be navigated by canoes 60 miles.

The Great Kanhaway is a river of conſiderable note for the fertility of its lands, and ſtill more, as leading towards the head waters of James River. Nevertheleſs, it is doubtful whether its great and numerous rapids will admit a navigation, but at an expence to which it will require ages to render its inhabitants equal. The great obſtacles begin at what are called the Great Falls, 90 miles above the mouth, below which are only five or ſix rapids, and theſe paſſable, with ſome difficulty, even at low water. From the falls to the mouth of Greenbriar is 100 miles, and thence to the lead mines 120. It is 280 yards wide at its mouth.

Hockhocking is 80 yards wide at its mouth, and yields navigation for loaded batteax to the Preſs-place, 60 miles above its mouth.

The Little Kanhaway is 150 yards wide at the mouth. It yields a navigation of 10 miles only. Perhaps its northern branch, called Junius's Creek, which interlocks with the weſtern of Mononguhela, may one day admit a ſhorter paſſage from the latter into the Ohio.

The Muſkingum is 280 yards wide at its mouth, and 200 yards at the lower Indian towns, 150 miles upwards. It is navigable for ſmall batteaux to within one mile of a navigable part of Cayahoga River, which runs into Lake Erié.

At Fort Pitt the River Ohio loſes its name, branching into the Monongahela and Allghaney.

The Monongahela is 400 yards wide at its mouth. From thence is 12 or 15 miles to the mouth of Yohoganey, where it is 300 yards wide. Thence to Redſtone by water is 50 miles, by land 30. Then to the mouth of Cheat River by water 40 miles, by land 28, the width continuing at 300 yards, and the navigation good for boats. Thence the width is about 200 yards to the Weſtern Fork, 50 miles higher, and the navigation frequently interrupted by rapids, which however with a ſwell of two or three feet become very paſſable for boats. It then admits light boats, except in dry ſeaſons, 65 miles further to the head of Tygart's Valley, preſenting only ſome ſmall rapids and falls of one or two feet perpendicular, and leſſening in its width to 20 yards. The Weſtern Fork is navigable in the winter 10 or 15 miles towards the northern of the Little Kanhaway, and will admit a good waggon road to it. The Yohoganey is the principal branch of this river. It paſſes through the Laurel mountain, about 30 miles from its mouth; is ſo far from 300 to 150 yards wide, and the navigation much obſtructed in dry weather by rapids and ſhoals. In its paſſage through the mountain it makes very great falls, admitting no navigation for 10 miles to the Turkey Foot. Thence to the Great Croſſing, about 20 miles, it is again navigable, except in dry ſeaſons, and at this place is 200 yards wide. The ſources of this river are divided from thoſe of the Patowmac, by the Alleghany mountain. From the falls, where it interſects the Laurel mountain, to Fort Cumberland, the head of the navigation on the Patowmac, is 40 miles of very mountainous road. Wills's Creek, at the mouth of which was Fort Cumberland, is 30 or 40 yards wide, but affords no navigation as yet. Cheat River, another conſiderable branch of the Monongahela, is 200 yards wide at its mouth, and 100 yards at the Dunkard's ſettlement, 50 miles higher. It is navigable for boats, except in dry ſeaſons. The boundary between Virginia and Pennſylvania croſſes it about 3 or 4 miles above its mouth.

The Alleghaney River, with a ſlight ſwell, affords navigation for light batteaux to Venango, at the mouth of French Creek, where it is 200 yards wide; and it is practiſed even to Le Bœuf, from whence there is a portage of 15 miles to Preſque iſle on Lake Erié.

The country watered by the Miſſiſippi and its eaſtern branches, conſtitutes five-eighths of the United States, two of which five-eighths are occupeid by the Ohio and its waters: the reſiduary ſtreams which run into the Gulph of Mexico, the Atlantic, and the St. Lawrence, water the remaining three-eighths.

Before we quit the ſubject of the weſtern waters, we will take a view of their principal connexions with the Atlantic. Theſe are three: the Hudſon's River, the Patowmac, and the Miſſiſippi, itſelf. Down the laſt will paſs all heavy commodities. But the navigation through the Gulph of Mexico is ſo dangerous, and that up the Miſſiſippi ſo difficult and tedious, that it is thought probable that European merchandize wiill not return through that channel. It is moſt likely that flour, timber, and other heavy articles will be floated on rafts, which will themſelves be an article for ſale as well as their loading, the navigators returning by land or in light batteaux. There will therefore be a competition between the Hudſon and Patowmac rivers for the reſidue of the commerce of all the country weſtward of Lake Erié, on the waters of the lakes of the Ohio and upper parts of the Miſſiſippi. To go to New-York, that part of the trade which comes from the lakes or their waters muſt firſt be brought into Lake Erié. Between Lake Superior and its waters, and Huron, are the rapids of St. Mary, which will permit boats to paſs, but not larger veſſels. Lakes Huron and Michigan afford communication with Lake Erié by veſſels of 8 feet draft. That part of the trade which comes from the waters of the Miſſiſippi muſt paſs from them through ſome portage into the waters of the lakes. The portage from the Illinois River into a water of Michigan is of one mile only. From the Wabaſh, Miami, Muſkingum, or Alleghaney, are portages into the waters of Lake Erie, of from one to 15 miles. When the commodities are brought into, and have paſſed through Lake Erié, there is between that and Ontario an interruption by the falls of Niagara, where the portage is of 3 miles; and between Ontario, and the Hudſon's River are portages at the falls of Onondago, a little above Oſwego, of a quarter of a mile; from Wood Creek to the Mohawks River two miles; as the little falls of the Mohawks River half a mile, and from Schenectady to Albany 16 miles. Beſides the increaſe of expence occaſioned by frequent changes of carriage, there is an increaſed riſk of pillage produced by committing merchandize to a greater number of hands succeſſively. The Patowmac offers itſelf under the following circumstances. For trade of the lakes and their waters weſtward of Lake Erié, when it shall have entered that lake, it muſt coaſt along its ſouthern ſhore, on account of the number and excellence of its harbours; the northern, though ſhorteſt, having few harbours, and theſe unſafe. Having reached Cayahoga, to proceed on to New-York it will have 825 miles and five portages; whereas it is but 425 miles to Alexandria, its emporium on the Patowmac, if it turns into the Cayahoga, and paſſes through that, Bigbeaver, Ohio, Yohoganey, (or Monongahela and Cheat) and Patowmac, and there are but two portages; the firſt of which between Cayahoga and Beaver may be removed by uniting the ſources of theſe waters, which are lakes in the neighbourhood of each other, and in a campaign country; the other from the waters of Ohio to Patowmac will be from 15 to 40 miles, according to the trouble which ſhall be taken to approach the two navigations. For the trade of the Ohio, or that which ſhall come into it from its own waters or the Miſſiſippi, it is nearer through the Patowmac to Alexandria, than to New-York by 580 miles, and it is interrupted by one portage only. There is another circumſtance of difference too. The lakes themſelves never freeze, but the communications between them freeze, and the Hudſon's River is itſelf ſhut up by the ice three months in the year; whereas the channel to the Cheſapeak leads directly into a warmer climate. The ſouthern parts of it very rarely freeze at all and whenever the northern do, it is ſo near the ſources of the rivers, that the frequent floods to which they are there liable, break up the ice immediately, ſo that veſſels may paſs through the whole winter, ſubject only to accidental and ſhort delays. Add to all this, that in caſe of a war with our neighbours, the Anglo-Americans or the Indians, the route to New-York becomes a frontier through almoſt its whole length, and all commerce through it ceaſes from that moment. But the channel to New-York is already known to practice; whereas the upper waters of the Ohio and the Patowmac, and the great falls of the latter are yet to be cleared of their fixed obſtructions. (A.)