Oregon: Her history, her great men, her literature/Epoch I
LEWIS & CLARK 1805
1502-1805
DISCOVERY OF OREGON
CHAPTER I.
For a long time the Oregon Country was a land of mystery and enchantment as vague as were the Pillars of Hercules to the ancients, and possessed of legends as entrancing as those of Greek mythology. When Bryant wrote Thanatopsis[1] in 1812, he thought of the Barcan desert as one end of the earth and of the Oregon Country as the other. So little was known of this far-west country that he referred to it as
"The continuous woods
Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound
Save his own dashings,"
which was as indefinite as a reference to Fairy-land. But as the pillars of Hercules eventually proved to be the great twin rocks guarding the gateway of the Mediterranean, so the "continuous woods," mentioned by Bryant, proved to be a vast region now called the Oregon Country.
The Oregon Country, once described in legend as a land of mystic obscurity, later appeared in history as the first territory on the Pacific Coast to which the United States of America laid claim; it was the first to which she established a title. It is the only American territory which she acquired by priority of discovery, exploration and settlement; her only possession obtained on this continent without bloodshed or cash purchase. This remarkable country bordering the Pacific Ocean from California on the south to British America on the north extended as far east as the summit of the Rocky Mountains. It included the territory drained by the Columbia River and its tributaries, also the region extending south between the Pacific Ocean and the Rocky Mountains to the 42nd parallel—in all more than a quarter million square miles. Because of its vast size it was subsequently divided into what are now Washington, Idaho, Oregon, and a part of Wyoming and Montana. The story of the Oregon Country, therefore, covers the early history of a region that has developed into prosperous states with their busy population, rich mines, great fields, thriving commerce, growing manufactories, beautiful cities and lawmaking capitols.
EXPLORATIONS THAT LED TO THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON FROM THE SEA
The discovery of the Oregon Country, like the discovery of America, was accidental. When it came to be known that islands and other land barriers of various sizes and unknown shapes lay across the direct sea route to India, navigators made many voyages in search for an open passage or strait through which ships might sail from Europe to India. Knowledge of the new country was vague, hence every inlet along the western coast was explored in the hope of finding a passage-way through the continent. These explorations, together with the explorations of fur traders, accidentally resulted in the discovery of the Columbia, which is the water highway of the Oregon Country, later known as Old Oregon. The explorations were numerous, covering almost three centuries. They were the thrilling adventures chiefly of Spaniards, Englishmen and Americans. Some of them will be recounted in this narrative.
MALDONADO'S STRAIT OF ANIAN, 1609
Explorations Stimulated by the Story of Anian Strait. While historians tell us that these explorations were begun by Columbus and Balboa, it may assist the reader to know some interesting things concerning the Strait of Anian, through which Gaspard Cortereal, a Portuguese navigator, claimed to have sailed from the Atlantic to the western ocean, in the year 1500. This was at a time when Columbus was seeking just such a passage-way to the waters that led to India, and it may be that he received inspiration from the report that Cortereal gave. The seriousness with which the Strait of Anian[2] was considered may be inferred from the fact that the Hudson's Bay Company in their charter in 1670, announced their purpose to discover a passageway from the Atlantic waters into the western Ocean. The British parliament in 1745 offered £20,000 to any Englishman sailing through a passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Furthermore various navigators sought the Columbia River with the belief that it would prove to be the Strait of Anian. It is, therefore, to be inferred that from the time of Columbus to the discovery of the Columbia various explorers were influenced by Cortereal's account of the Strait of Anian.
Columbus and Balboa Endeavor to Sail Through the Isthmus. In an effort to find a western passage-way from Europe to India, so that Spanish ships might compete with the ships of the Portuguese, Columbus in 1502 touched upon the shores of the Isthmus of Darien. Being unable to proceed, he returned to Spain. It so happened in 1513, that Balboa, like Columbus, found his westward progress obstructed by the Isthmus of Darien. His ships were hemmed in by land on three sides. There were the rich mines of South America to his left, the equally rich mines in Mexico to his right, and the silver mines of the Isthmus just ahead. Had Balboa dreamed of the possibility of loading his ships with silver and of returning to Spain to live in princely splendor, he might have been tempted to proceed no further on his journey of exploration. It was well, therefore, that his dream of life was mystic. He continued the explorations begun by Columbus; but finding no strait by which his ship could sail through the narrow neck of land, he crossed the mountain by a southward route and discovered a vast body of water which he called the South Sea, but which we call the Pacific Ocean. Upon arriving at the newly discovered sea, (1513), he dramatically waded into its waters, and with drawn sword claimed all its shores as part of the future Spanish Empire. These were the beginnings of the explorations which gradually approached the mouth of the Columbia.
BALBOA
Balboa believed that Darien was the northern headland of South America around which ships could sail, and he hoped to find a sailing course through that headland for ships bound to India. But his hopes were not realized because the passageway which he sought remained closed until the opening of the Panama Canal by the Americans four centuries later. In the hope of finding the western entrance of the passage-way, Balboa built ships, which were the first to sail along the Pacific Coast. This was the beginning of the explorations along the west coast of North America, which nearly three centuries later resulted in the discovery of the Oregon River. Balboa's voyage failed to meet the expectations of his sovereign, and in 1517, he suffered one of those political deaths common among Spaniards in those times. Further explorations were conducted during the same period by Cortez, Governor of Mexico, who had already attained distinction as a conqueror of the natives, having gained Mexico for Spain. Upon hearing of Balboa's expedition, he also desired to become a noted explorer. Not being a sailor, Cortez provided men and ships to sail under Ulloa, and constructed a good naval station for them on the west coast of Mexico.
Ulloa Discovers Lower California. After exploring the Gulf of California, (1539), Ulloa, who sailed under the direction of Cortez, rounded the southern cape of Lower California, which had been discovered in 1534, and sailed northward along the coast half the length of the peninsula to Cedros Island. Only one of his ships returned to Mexico, the two others having been lost on the voyage.
Coronado Marches to Kansas. After a time Cortez was succeeded by Mendoza as Viceroy of Mexico. Soon the new viceroy became ambitious to outdo his predecessor in the search for new lands and seas. Accordingly he made provision for two explorations; one by land, under Coronado, the other by sea, under Alarcon.
Coronado Started from Mexico in 1550 with a large force of horsemen and native allies on an expedition to conquer "The Seven Cities of Cibola," which were said to be in a northerly direction. The Golden Cities were as famous in fable as was the spring of eternal youth which Ponce de Leon had already sought in vain. Coronado sought them in Mexico and Arizona. He then marched to the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River, thence to Arkansas. Having been misled by a native guide, he pushed northward into what are now Kansas and Nebraska, where the agricultural possibilities of the country favorably impressed him. Upon failing to reach the mystic cities for which his expedition had been equipped, Coronado returned to Mexico, where he was received coldly by Mendoza, the disappointed viceroy. Reports of Coronado's expedition, however, created intense interest in the western coast, and led to many subsequent explorations.
Alarcon Approaches Upper California. To assist Coronado, Mendoza organized an expedition under Alarcon, who ascended the Colorado in small boats to the Gila, which is near the Southern boundary of what is California. About this time appeared a popular Spanish novel which described a mystic island near paradise. The name of the island was "California."[3] Because of some fancied resemblance between the island described in the novel and the peninsula now called Lower California, the name of the fabled island was applied to the latter. California came to include the territory along the coast north to the 42nd parallel. The peninsula, or southern division, was then called Lower California; the northern, Upper California. Later "Upper" was dropped from the latter name.
Cabrillo Discovers San Diego and Monterey. Being much encouraged by the discoveries made by Coronado and Alarcon, Mendoza equipped Cabrillo for a northeriy expedition, following the general outline of the coast. The navigator soon passed Cedros Island, and, on the 28th day of September 1542, discovered what we call San Diego, but which he named San Miguel. From San Miguel Cabrillo sailed to Monterery. He was very methodical in preparing charts and maps of his explorations; hence was enabled to give valuable detailed information concerning the country and people discovered by him.
Ferelo Sails Near Oregon. Cabrillo died at San Miguel Island, January 3, 1543, and Ferelo, his pilot, assumed charge of the expedition. Thirty years after Balboa's first effort to explore the coast, Ferelo may have sailed to the parallel of 42°, which is the southern boundary of Oregon. There is a possibility, therefore, that Oregon was seen by this navigator more than sixty years before the first settlement was made in Virginia.
Juan Perez Sails to San Margarita. Juan Perez, a Spanish navigator, sailed from California, June 11, 1774, and within a month, anchored at San Margarita near the southern coast of Alaska. Later he found in latitude 49° north a crescent-shaped harbor, which he named Lorenzo, since called Nootka Sound.
Heceta Nearly Entered the Columbia. In the year following (1775), while Washington was taking command of the continental troops on the eastern coast, the "Santiago" and "Sonora," under the command of Captain Bruno Heceta were sailing northward along the wertem coast. He landed at Point Grenville near the straits of Fuca, and there planted the Spanish flag. "Soon afterward his crew was so thinned by scurvy that the 'Santiago' turned homeward." On the 17th day of August while Heceta[4] was on his return voyage, he saw the mouth of the "River of the West," which he mistook for a bay or inlet. But for this mistake Heceta probably would have crossed the bar at die mouth of die river, in which case die Spanish flag would have been the first to float over the river now called the Columbia.
Cuadra Explores Northward to Russian Territory. Although the "Santiago" commanded by Heceta sailed southward, the "Sonora" commanded by Cuadra, sailed to the north, whereupon the Captain discovered Mt. San Jacinto (Mt. Edgecombe), a snow peak in latitude 57°. He continued his voyage northward to latitude 58°, but decided to proceed no further, inasmuch as the Russians claimed the coast north of latitude 60° by right of discovery.
Monacht Ape'. It will be borne in mind that some of the explorations along the Pacific Coast were stimulated by stories recited by Indians who had visited various parts of the country, then unknown to white people. There were Indians in the Mississippi valley who had visited the Pacific coast and related their adventures to seamen, missionaries and others who published accounts of these adventures in Europe and America. H. H. Bancroft quotes the French explorer M. le Page du Pratz concerning Monacht Ape' an intelligent Yazoo Indian who traveled from the Mississippi to the Atlantic and thence to the Pacific Ocean. The French Savant regarded this Indian as a philosopher, and quoted many of his utterances. The following, which was inspired by the sight of the Atlantic Ocean, is one of them: "When I first saw it I was so delighted that I could not speak; my eyes were too small for my soul's ease. The wind so disturbed the great water that I thought it would beat the land to pieces." Ape' narrated his experiences with the Indian tribes along the River of the West, and described an encounter which the natives under his temporary leadership had with thirty pirates who landed at the mouth of the river. This Indian traveler was away from home five years, and the story of his travels was published in Paris in 1 758 by du Pratz.
Drake Calls California "New Albion." Thus far only Spanish ships had participated in the explorations. But England was growing ambitious to become a sea power. Furthermore Spain and England were unfriendly to each other as the result of a quarrel between the King of Spain and the English ruler, who was none other than Queen Elizabeth. She had given her consent permitting Sir Francis Drake to seize, rob and destroy Spanish ships in American waters. On this voyage, though his flagship, the "Golden Hind," became separated from four of his fleet, Drake attacked Spanish ships in harbors and on the high seas, robbing them of silver, gold, and rich cargoes. Upon landing at Drake's Bay, which is believed to be the inlet a few miles northwest of Golden Gate, he took possession of the adjacent land for England, calling it New Albion. Fearing to return by the route he came, Drake boldly sailed across the ocean, rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and won the distinction of being the first Englishman to circumnavigate the globe. When he arrived at London with his treasure-laden ship, "the Queen, declaring her approbation of all that he had done," confeired upon him the honor of knighthood.
Cook Sails Through Bering's Strait. In 1778, two years after the declaration of American Independence Captain James Cook, sailing under the British flag, discovered the Sandwich Islands* Then he sailed north, in search of the legendary strait connecting the Pacific with the Atlantic Ocean. According to Dr. John Fiske, "Captain Cook first saw a point which he called Cape Foulweather, and sailing south from there he named Capes Perpetua and Gregory. Thence he turned about to the northward and in the struggle with adverse winds was carried well out to sea, so that the next land he saw was Cape Flattery." He then entered Nootka Sound which he also named. Following the coast line northward, Captain Cook penetrated into the bay afterwards known as Cook's Inlet. Upon failtng to find a passage in this direction, he sailed for Bering Strait. On August 9 he named the north-eastermost point of the Asiatic continent, East Cape; and to the northwestern extremity of America he gave the name Cape Prince of Wales—both of which he visited. Finding the passage interrupted by an impenetrable wall of ice, Captain Cook returned to Hawaii, vhere he was killed by a native August 14, 1779.
Cook's Expedition Resulted in Fur Trade. When the ships of which Cook had been captain touched at Canton on their return to England, the furs purchased of the Indians at Nootka Sound were readily sold at many times the cost price. Such was the profit, and so intense was the consequent excitement on board ship, that the crews threatened to mutiny when the officers refused to return to the Pacific Northwest for more furs. As soon as the news of the fur trade spread throughout Europe, trading ships were sent to the northwest coast by England, France and Portugal; and in the course of time ships from Spain and the United States visited harbors in the fur bearing region.
Ledyard Inspires American Fur Trade. On Captain Cook's ship was a young American, John Ledyard by name. He was an ambitious, restless fellow who after preparing for missionary work, decided to be a seaman. He published the first account of Cook's voyage. His book interested Americans, who were thereby led to study Captain Cook's report of the valuable furs which the Russian traders purchased from the Indians for a few trinkets and sold at high prices in the ready markets of Canton. Soon a company in Boston equipped the "Columbia" and the "Washington"—henceforth called "Lady Washington"—to carry on the fur trade and explorations. On the 30th of September, 1787, the two vessels started on their long voyage with John Kendrick as Captain of the "Columbia" and Robert Gray as Captain of the "Lady Washington." These two ships were destined to carry the first American explorations and fur trade along the Oregon coast.
Captain Gray as a Fur Trader. After rounding Cape Horn, the ships ran into heavy seas, and lost sight of each other. The "Lady Washington, touched at several points along the coast, among which evidently were Alsea Bay or Yaquina Bay, and the anchorage at Cape Lookout. On the 16th of September, 1788, she arrived at Nootka Sound where "for many years all sea captains gathered to exchange the latest information as to new discoveries, etc." Here the British vessel, "Northwest America," constructed by Lieut. John Meares, was launched—the first sea-going vessel built on the Northwest Coast; and on the 27th of the same month the "Columbia" anchored within forty yards of her consort. The "Lady Washington" and the "Colombia" then purchased furs at various harbors. It is said that sea-otter skins which were afterwards sold at Canton for $200 each were purchased from the Indians at lees than one shilling. In the month of July the furs were placed aboard the "Columbia." Captain Robert Gray taking command of that ship, sailed for China.[5] He sold the furs, purchased a cargo of tea, and sailing around the Cape of Good Hope, arrived in Boston August 10, 1790, after a voyage of 50,000 miles. The officers and owners were entertained by Governor Hancock with fitting hospitality; and the hopeful owners planned a second voyage.
The "Columbia," a Historic Ship. In addition to what has been said of the "Columbia," die following from "The Memorial History of the City of New York" by James Grant Wilson is of value: "The ship, the "Empress of China," Captain John Green, sailed (from New York) February 22, 1784, Washington's birthday. She carried the original flag of the United States adopted in 1777. The flag, first flown on the Pacific Coast in 1784, was taken round the world by the "Columbia in 1789-90." It is noteworthy that the "Columbia" was the first American ship to circumnavigate the globe; that she was the first ship of our nation to carry our flag around the earth; and that the flag which she carried 
[6]CAPTAIN GRAY'S FLAG
was the original American flag adopted in 1777. Hence the original flag of our nation was the first American flag to circumnavigate the earth; and it is a curious fact that the ship which bore this flag was yet to add to her fame by entering the waters of the Oregon on a mission of discovery two years later and by giving her fair name to that majestic river.
Gray Discovers the Columbia River. The Columbia was thoroughly overhauled and refitted as expeditiously as possible. Sea letters were granted by President Washington, Governor Hancock, and the foreign consul in Boston. The ship left Boston harbor September 28, 1790, and arrived at Clayoquot, June 4, 1791. During the summer of 1791 Gray traded in the harbors along the Pacific coast. The following winter he built the "Adventure" in Clayoquot harbor. May 7, 1792, he discovered Gray's Harbor; and four days later he entered the Columbia River. The following account of the discovery is given by T. C. Elliott in the Society Quarterly; Vol. XVIII. No. 4:
"After three days spent in Gray's (Bulfinch) Harbor, Captain Robert Gray in the ship "Columbia" on the 11th of May, 1792, at 4:00 A. M. sighted the entrance of the river 'bearing east-south-east, distance six leagues.' The ship's log states: 'At eight A. M. being a little to the windward of the entrance of the Harbor, bore away and run in eastnorth-east between the breakers, having from five to seven fathoms of water. When we were over the bar we found this to be a large river of fresh water, up which we steered.'
At one o'clock that afternoon he anchored one-half mile from the north bank just west of Point Ellice, northwest of Astoria, and close to a large village of Chinook Indians. There he proceeded to fill his casks with fresh water from the river, this being possible because the freshets were then on. A day or so later he sailed twelve or fifteen miles further up the river, following a narrow channel along the north side, until the ship grounded.
"On the 20th he sailed out of the river, having meantime dropped down to an anchorage near Chinook Point (Fort Columbia), and his log gives more details: 'Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. At 1 P. M. (being full sea) took up the anchor and made sail, standing down river. At two the wind left us, we being on the bar with a very strong tide which set on the breakers; it was now not possible to get out without a breeze to shoot her across the tide; so we were obliged to bring up in three and a half fathoms, the tide running five knots. At three-quarters past two a fresh wind came in from seaward; we immediately came to sail and beat over the bar, having from five to seven fathoms of water in the channel. At five P. M. we were out, clear of all the bars, and in twenty fathoms of water. A breeze came from the southward; we bore away to the northward; set sail to the best advantage. At eight Cape Hancock bore southeast distant three leagues'."
"COLUMBIA" AND "WASHINGTON" MEDAL
The English Explore the Columbia. The Spanish, the English and the Russians had expressed doubt as to the possibility of entering the Columbia with a ship. But when it was announced that Captain Gray had sailed on its waters, Lieutenant Wm. R. Broughton under orders from Captain George Vancouver, of the British Royal Navy, set sail in the armed tender "Chatham" from Puget Sound for the Columbia, and sailed into the river. "Lieutenant Broughton left the 'Chatham' at anchor off what is now the Quarantine Station opposite Astoria, October 24th and ascended the river with most of the crew in two boats, the "Pinnace" and "Cutter," to a point above Washougal, making observations and soundings, and bestowing names upon islands and tribu- tary streams along the way.
Mount Hood Named and Explored. On October 30, 1792, Lieutenant Broughton, while on this expedition up the Columbia, named Mount Hood, which is 11,225 feet in elevation, being the highest Oregon peak. It is in the Cascade
Range, and its summit is about 20 miles from the Columbia River as the crow flies. It was named for Alexander Arthur Hood, afterwards Lord Brinport, of England, a personal friend of Vancouver. For a time it was known among Americans as Mount Washington. The mountain was explored by General Joel Palmer, soon after arriving upon his first visit to Oregon in 1845. The ascent of Mount Hood was made (1854) by Judge Cyrus Olney, Major Granville O. Haller, U. S. A., Thomas J. Dryer, Wells Lake, Captain T. O. Travailot, Samuel K. Barlow, and an Indian guide. In August, 1867, the first white women ascended the mountain. They were the Misses Fannie Case, Mary Robinson, and Lucy Hay. Although prior to 1845 it was regarded an impossibility to ascend Mount Hood, the summit has come to be the annual playground of the Oregon Mazamas and other mountain climbers.
Naming the Columbia River. The Columbia River has been known by various names. It was called "Wauna" by the Indians." The Spaniards called it "La Roque" (or La Roc), from the cape near the entrance of the river into the ocean. It was then known as "Thegayo" and later as "Rio de Aguilar." But the Americans first thought of it as the "River of the West." Jonathan Carver, as early as 1778; referred to it as the "Oregon," a name which it is believed he heard while among the Indians near the Great Lakes.Afterwards it was called the "Columbia" by Captain Gray, in honor of the good ship that first sailed upon its waters. CHAPTER II
THE DISCOVERY OF OREGON BY LAND
"Never did a single event excite more Joy throughout the United States."—Thomas Jefferson.
Importance of the Mississippi to the Americans. The most important navigable river in the Louisiana territory was the Mississippi. Horses and cattle that the American settlers raised were annually driven east to Atlantic markets, but grain and other produce were put on barges, which floated down the Mississippi to ports that were visited by merchant ships of Spain and France. So important was the Mississippi river to the farmers along its banks that there arose a fear that the river would eventually be used by subjects of Spain only, and many American settlers threatened to sever their allegiance to their country. This feeling of insecurity among the Americans along the Mississippi River was intensified in 1600 when Napoleon, by a secret treaty, obtained Louisiana from Spain. The treaty was so very secret that Americans were naturally alarmed lest Napoleon's plan of a world empire might include the Mississippi Valley and thereby prove a menace to the United States. No one understood the situation better than did President Thomas Jefferson.
Jefferson's Designs. To avert the danger of war and preserve the Union, President Jefferson designed two measures of far-reaching statesmanship. The first was a proposal to purchase from Napoleon the City of New Orleans and the adjacent land on the east bank of the Mississippi, known as West Florida. This would insure commercial freedom to the West and soothe the irritation of the settlers. Jefferson's second design was to dispatch an overland exploring expedition up the Missouri River to the Pacific. By this he hoped to accomplish several desirable objects, to-wit: to build up friendly trade with the Indians along the Missouri and westward to the mountains; to attract the fur trade of 
PRESIDENT THOMAS JEFFERSON
the Northwest Coast eastward by the overland route; to hasten the settlement of the Mississippi Valley by American pioneers and thus forestall the intrigues of the English and the French; to balk the advance of the Northwest Company in the region of the Upper Missouri and Columbia Rivers; to establish intimate commercial relations between the East and the developing West; and last, but by no means least, among the motives which actuated Jefferson, to satisfy his keen scientific curiosity and promote the science of geography." (Story of Oregon.)
Purchase of Louisiana, At the beginning of the year 1803, Jefferson began the execution of both these designs. He dispatched Monroe to France to negotiate with Napoleon for the purchase of New Orleans and West Florida, and he sent Congress the famous message which outlined the plan of the expedition to the Pacific. Congress received the message on January 18, 1803, and promptly voted the necessary funds. The negotiations with Napoleon succeeded beyond expectations. Busied with new combinations in European affairs, the great leader of France offered to sell the whole of Louisiana to the United States, hoping thus to upbuild a formidable military and commercial rival to England, his implacable foe. Jefferson leaped at the amazing opportunity, and with one stroke of his pen made America an imperial nation, and insured to democratic institutions the scepter of the world."—(The Story of Oregon.)
President Jefferson's Estimate of the Oregon Expedition. In his message, January 18, 1803, President Jefferson said to Congress: "An intelligent officer with ten or twelve men fit for the enterprise and willing to undertake it, might explore the whole line, even to the Western Ocean, have conferences with the natives on the subject of commercial intercourse, get admission among them for our traders, as other traders are admitted, agree on a convenient deposit for an interchange of articles, and return with the information acquired, in the course of two summers.
MERIWETHER LEWISWILLIAM CLARK
Lewis and Clark Placed in Command of the Expedition. Congress voted only twenty-five hundred dollars for the expedition to the West. But, inasmuch as the purchasing power of money then was three times greater than at the present time, Congress was much more liberal with the explorers than would at first appear. Jefferson placed Meriwether Lewis in charge of the expedition. Lewis, who had been the President's private secretary, was thirty years of age, robust of constitution, accustomed to outdoor life, well informed, and upright and considerate with others. Lewis selected William Clark as his coadjutor and comrade. The expedition was, therefore, organized under two captains. Both men had received military training. Both knew how to command and to obey. Both were eminently qualified for the undertaking.
(Upload an image to replace this placeholder.)
SENATOR THOMAS H. BENTON
The Party Assembled at St. Louis. The party of explorers consisted of two commanders, eighteen soldiers, nine Kentucky hunters, Clark's negro, and two French interpreters. There were also sixteen other soldiers who accompanied the expedition the first season. They spent the winter of 1803-4 at the mouth of the river Du Bois, (Illinois) building boats and gathering information and material for the journey.[7] The Journey Begun. Having made ample preparation, the Lewis and Clark party began their long voyage up the Missouri on the 14th of May, 1804. On the 25th day of May they came to LaCharette, the home of Daniel Boone, the famous Kentucky hunter, and they passed the Kansas and the Platte June 5th and 14th respectively. Conforming to the suggestions of President Jefferson, the party held councils of peace with the Indian chiefs wherever possible. Probably the most important council was held with the Missouris and Ottos at Council Bluffs. The journey was steadily continued till the end of October, when the party arrived at the Mandan village near what is the City of Bismark, capital of South Dakota. Here they went into winter quarters.
Their Winter at Mandan. The Lewis and Clark party, while established in winter quarters at the Mandan[8] village, gathered much valuable information from the Indians. They built a fort in the shape of the letter V. It was made of elm and cottonwood logs. They made reports of their explorations thus far, and they completed preparations for their journey in the spring. They also negotiated a treaty of peace and friendship between the Mandans and the Ricarees[9] who had been enemies of long standing.
Sacajawea.[10] At the Mandan village was found Sacajawea, "The Woman Pilot, who was born not to die." When a child she had been taken into captivity from the Shoshones .jpg)
SACAJAWEA
by an unfriendly Indian tribe, and had been sold into slavery; and now at the age of sixteen was the wife of M. Chaboneau, the French trader. Because she and her husband were somewhat familiar with the country and the people along the route to be pursued, they were engaged as guides and interpreters by Lewis and Clark, and were permitted to accompany the expedition to the Pacific Ocean. While they were of service to their employers all the while, Sacajawea proved of incalculable value to the white explorers by bringing about peaceful relations between them and her people—the Shoshones.
Journey Resumed in Spring. On the 7th day of April, 1805, the Lewis and Clark party resumed their journey up the Missouri in search of its source. Much game, such as buffalo, deer, grizzly bear and elk, was seen along the way. Interesting encounters with grizzlies were experienced; and on one occasion the explorers while proceeding up stream were delayed until a herd of buffalo was given time to cross. Later it was decided to divide the expedition into two parties. Anxious to overtake the Shoshone Indians, who were believed to be ahead of them. Captain Lewis, with three men, went on up the Jefferson River, while Captain Clark and his party followed with the canoes and luggage in a more leisurely manner. On the 12th of August the Lewis party drank from the fountain head of the Missouri River. Then crossing the summit, they drank from another spring; and they rejoiced, for the spring was one of the sources of the Lewis River, one of the arms of the Columbia, which they were seeking. After an extended detour Captain Lewis and his three men in company with some Indians returned to the Forks of the Jefferson, where they met Captain Clark and party. When Sacajawea saw the Indians. "she began to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, sucking her fingers and pointing to the Indians to indicate that they were of her native tribe."
Sacajawea Discovers the Chief to be Her Brother. The dramatic meeting of Sacajawea and her brother, which took place on the Jefferson River, August 17th, is described by Mrs. Eva Emery Dye in the "Conquest" as follows:
"Sacajawea could not wait In her anxiety she begged to walk along shore, and with her husband went up to the rivulet of her childhood. She flew ahead. She turned, pirouetting lightly on her beaded moccasins, waving her arms and kissing her fingers. Her long hair flew in the wind and her beaded necklace sparkled.
"Yes, there were the Indians, and Lewis among them, dressed like an Indian too. The white men had given everything they had to the Indians, even their cocked hats and red feathers, and taken Indian clothes in exchange, robes of the mountain sheep and goat
"An Indian girl leaned to look at Sacajawea. They flew into each other's arms. They had been children together, had been captured in the same battle, had shared the same captivity. One had escaped to her own people; the other had been sold as a slave in the Land of the Dakotahs. As girls will, with arms around each other they wandered off and talked of the wonderful fortune that had come to Sacajawea, the wife of a white man.
"A council was immediately called. The Shoshones spread white robes and hung wampum and pearls in the hair of the white men.
"Sacajawea. Bring her hither," called Lewis.
"Tripping lightly into the willow lodge, Sacajawea was beginning to interpret, when lifting her eyes to the chief, she recognized her own brother, Cameahwait. She ran to his side, threw her blanket over his head, and wept upon his bosom.
"Sacajawea,[11] too, was a Princess, come home now to her Mountain Kingdom."
Suffering. The Indians[12] rendered valuable service to Lewis and Clark by trading horses to them for trinkets and by manifesting much good will toward them in other ways. But there were many difficulties to be overcome. One of the immediate difficulties was the long distance they had to travel in a northwest direction over an unknown route to the Clearwater River before they could proceed by boats westward. Also the party at times endured much suffering brought on principally by the scarcity and inferior quality of food and by unbalanced rations?-their diet being roots, horse meat, dogs, crows, and wolves in sparse supply. Their Journal says: "Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken ill last evening, and today he could hardly sit on his horse, while others were obliged to be put on horseback; and some from weakness and pain were forced to lie down alongside the road. The weather was very hot and oppressive to the party, most of whom were complaining of sickness. Our condition indeed, made it necessary to husband our remaining strength. It was determined to proceed down the river in canoes. Captain Clark, therefore, set out with the Chief called "Twisted Hair" and two young men in quest of timber for canoes. Having resolved to go down to some spot calculated for building canoes, we set out early in the morning, and encamped on the low ground on the south, opposite the forks of the river."
The Winter at Fort Clatsop. Carried by the current in canoes from October 7, Lewis and Clark reached the mouth of the Columbia, November 11. Jefferson had instructed them to "learn upon reaching the Pacific if there be any
COLUMBIA SMOKE STACKS NEAR WALLULA
port within your reach frequented by the sea vessels of any nation, and to send two of your trusty people back by sea or if "the return of your party by the way they went will be imminently dangerous, then ship the whole and return by sea-either by Cape Horn or by the Cape of Good Hope." Failing of an opportunity to return by sea, they built Fort Clatsop on the Netal[13] River—now called the Lewis and Clark—about two miles above its mouth. Here they spent the long dreary winter, killing elk and obtaining food by
whatever means they might, frequently trading with the Indians for dogs and fish. Some of the party went a few miles west, to where Seaside now is, to procure salt. Here
SITE OF LEWIS & CLARK SALT CAIRN
they constructed a salt cairn, which in recent years has undergone restoration, but which is one of the oldest evidences of civilization in the Pacific Northwest. The Lewis and Clark party were well fortified in their fort; and as wood was abundant, they were comfortable. The winter was spent chiefly in making maps and completing the notes of their journey.
THE GRAND DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA
Their Return. Being unable to sight a ship on which the Lewis and Clark party could go home, they began their return by land, March 23, 1806. The funds set apart for the expedition were nearly exhausted by this time. But Lewis and Clark were skilled in the use and preparation of herbs; and these remedies were bartered at prices corresponding to those charged by the Indians for horses, dogs and other necessities. The explorers were delayed by snow in the Rocky Mountains. But they were strong and determined; hence they journeyed steadily until they arrived at St. Louis exactly six months from the day they left Fort Clatsop.
Jefferson's Views of the Expedition. Upon the return of Lewis and Clark, there was much rejoicing throughout the United States over the success of their expedition; and the President, who was inclined to be temperate in his statements, said "Never did a single event excite more joy throughout the United States. The humblest of its citizens had taken a lively interest in the issue of this journey, and looked forward with impatience to the information it would furnish. The anxieties, too, for the safety of the corps had been kept in a state of excitement by lugubrious rumors circulated from time to time on uncertain authorities, and contradicted by letters and other direct information from the time they left Mandan towns, on their ascent up the river in April of the preceding year, 1805, until their actual return to St. Louis.
OREGON TRAIL AND ROUTE OF LEWIS AND CLARK
CHAPTER III
INDIAN FOLK-LORE
"Red thunderbolts ..A flash! A thunderblast!
The clouds were rent, and lo! Mount Hood stood white and vast!"
The folk-lore of the Indians in the Oregon Country—rich in myths, legends, creative stories, and traditions—has been compared with that of the Greeks prior to the age of Homer. The stories, repeated by these simple people at their camp fires, were so interesting that the whites recite them to this day.
Not only is Oregon Indian folk-lore entertaining, but it also has a certain educational value. It gives correct ideas of the more serious things which the primitive people of our land believed and discussed, such as their theories concerning the beginnings of things—the creation of mountains, of men, of birds and fish and beasts. In this respect their folk-lore was their unwritten Book of Genesis. Hence it is worthy of careful study. That the reader may obtain a glimpse of the intellectual and spiritual life of the Oregon aboriginese, a few Indian myths have been selected from Lyman's "History of Oregon" and other sources.
Legend of the Cascades
When man came to dwell upon the earth there was peace and plenty everywhere. No winter, no poverty, no sickness marred his happiness. But with his children came quarrels; because the two eldest sons claimed an undue portion of the inheritance which the father had bequeathed. To quiet their dissensions the Great Spirit decided to take the children to a new home which was toward the rising sun. So while they slept one night, he carried them to the top of a great mountain chain which sloped to the east and to the west. Then he bade the two sons to shoot arrows toward the sky, saying to each that wherever his arrow fell there he was to make his home. The sturdy young warriors obeyed. One of their arrows fell to the eastward in the Klickitat country, and the other to the westward in the Willamette Valley; and each son made his home where his arrow fell. But the descendants of these sons grew wicked, and the Good Spirit was sorely grieved. So to punish them he brought about a period of cold and hunger lasting many seasons, and among all the people only one woman had fire in her wigwam. No one could take it from her, for she alone had proved faithful. Then the people became frightened and repented of their wrong-doing and besought the Great Spirit to send them fire. He heard their cry and bade the old woman give them fire, promising as a reward any favor she might desire. Being a woman, she asked for youth and beauty, which were granted upon the condition that she would keep a fire forever burning upon the bridge which the Great Spirit had built across the river that flowed etween the two tribes. The people were so happy over the return of fire and warmth that they made all manner of promises to live better. Then the old woman gathered sticks and kindled a fire upon a flat stone on the bridge, and straightway she became a beautiful maiden. With the re turn of youth and beauty came suitors; and, like many another so gifted, she kept them in suspense-particularly two, one from the south and the other from the north. Growing jealous of each other these swains quarreled, and their respective tribes engaged in warfare. Then the Great Spirit became angry and broke down the bridge which had been a symbol of peace; and he changed the two warriors into Mount Hood and Mount Adams; and the enraged mountains shot fire and rocks at each other. The maid, Loo-wit, was also transformed into a mountain; but she retained her loveliness as Mt. St. Helens, which is regarded by many as the most beautiful among the snow-capped peaks of the Cascade Range.
The Coyote and the Three Witches
Observing some men exposed to the cold, the coyote resolved to get fire for them. The fire was on the summit of a high mountain, where it was so closely guarded by three witches that no one except the coyote thought it could be taken from them. But when the witches were carelessly changing vigils, the sly coyote seized a brand of fire and disappeared. Soon he was pursued, and all but overtaken. Indeed, one witch had the tip of his tail in her grasp, leaving the tip white to this day. At that moment the coyote caught up with the fox, who took the brand and went on. The witch then closely pursued the fox who came up with the wolf in time to pass the fire to him. All the animals were in turn brought in and pursued down to the frog, which took the fire, now a mere coal, and hopped away. The witch soon caught up with him, and grasped the tail; but the frog gave a desperate leap, and escaped, leaving his tail in the witch's hand-so that to this day frogs have no tails. Soon the frog was overtaken again, and would have given up the precious coal of fire, but, for the fact that he spit it out upon a stick of wood, and the wood quickly absorbed it. The witch did not know how to get it out of the wood, but the coyote did. He therefore instructed men to bring forth fire by rubbing sticks together, and from that day mankind has had the use of fire.
The Coyote on the Klamath
A coyote was roving through the Klamath Country, where rabbits were plentiful. But the salmon failed to come up the river that year, hence the people were in want of fish The coyote had learned from some source that monsters called Skookums had built a dam over which the fish could not pass up stream. Because he was a friend of the people and an enemy of the Skookums, he made a vow that "before many days, enough fish would come up the river to give men, women and children, and even the dogs all the food they could eat."
He went to the dam which the Skookums had built; and with the craftiness of his cousin, the fox, he waited till one of the Skookums approached to guard the place, and e sprang upon her. When she fell, the coyote instantly opened the gate, letting the swarming salmon pass through on their way up the river. He then broke down the dam, and since that time fish have gone every year to the upper stream, so that all the people may be fed.
The Five Thunders
The North Wind, the South Wind and the Five Thunders were ancient gods. They were very fierce and killed people. They tore up trees also. But one day Skel (Marten) put on the North Wind's hat and the Five Thunders fought each other, tied together by the hair, until each of the Thunders' hearts exploded with a terrific noise. Then the combatants vanished into the sky with a bright flash of light where sometimes we can hear them roar even yet; but they do not often destroy, nor kill.
Tallapus and the Cedar Tree
How the Birds Came to Have Bright Colors
The summer was passing and the winds blew colder and colder and the green leaves were changed to gorgeous colors till the trees looked like great flaming torches. The mother tree sorrowed as she thought of the leaves that would soon fly away from her; and the Great Spirit was moved with pity as he looked down and beheld the bright colors that would fade and be lost. So when the strong wind loosened their hold and the leaves fluttered to the ground he gave them new form and new life, and the brown leaves became robins and wrens, and the red ones red birds; I and they builded their nests in the branches of the mother tree where they once danced so merrily in the breeze.
Notes[edit]
- ↑ First appeared in "North American Review." 1817.
- ↑ In 1609, Maldonado, another Portuguese explorer made a map which marks the Bering Strait of Anian. While the explorations of Maldonado have been discredited by some writers, his map is valuable since it implies that, with the early navigators, he believed the earth to be much smaller than it is; that the Pacific Ocean was only a few hundred miles wide; that the Strait of Anian was much farther north than indicated by navigators of the previous century.
- ↑ Some writers believe that "California" came from the Latin words calida fornax—a hot furnace, being a reference to the unusual heat the Spaniards experienced upon their first arrival in that country.
- ↑ Heceta Head was named for Captain Heceta.
- ↑ Captain Gray's Bill of Lading. The following bill of lading, Signed by Captain Gray, illustrates the seriousness of going to sea in 1790:
"Shipped by the grace of God, in good order and condition, by Bhaw and Randall, in and upon the good ship called the "Columbia," whereof is master under God for this present voyage, Robert Gray, and now riding at anchor at Whampoa and by God's grace bound for Boston in America— to say, 220 chests Bohea tea, 170 half-chests, do, 144 quarter-chests do. To be delivered unto Samuel Parkman, Esq., or to his assigns; and so God send the good ship to her desired port in safety. Amen. Dated In Canton, February 8, 1790. (Signed) Robert Gray." - ↑ A replica of this flag, also Captain Gray's sea chest with other property of the ship "Columbia" are in the Oregon Historical Society Museum at Portland.
- ↑ 'Oregon Fostered by Missouri.Although various states contributed to the development and growth of Oregon, Missouri led them all. Missouri was the principal supply station—the Half Way House—for the early emigrants to Oregon. Among the first to understand the situation and to advocate American occupation and possession of Oregon was Thomas H. Benton, of Missouri. Later Senator Lewis F. Linn, of Missouri, urged military possession of the Columbia and a territorial government in Oregon. When some of the other states were in doubt, Missouri was firm, in befriending and nourishing the interests of Oregon, and urged the settlement of the new territory so that it might become American by occupation as well as by discovery. At the outset a vast number of emigrants came from Missouri to build homes in Oregon. It will, therefore, be seen that Missouri in developing her own interests as a supply station for the far West, helped magnificently in the outset to develop Oregon. Consequently, Oregon grew as a by-product of Missouri much the same as Missouri grew of Kentucky, Kentucky of Virginia, and Virginia of England.
- ↑ "The Mandan tribe contained about two thousand persons. As a tribe it was almost extinguished by small-pox, in 1838, the few whom the pestilence spared being made captives by the Ricarees, who took possession of their village. This the Sioux soon after attacked, and in the thick of the fight the unhappy Mandans rushed out beyond the pickets and called upon the Sioux to kill them, for they were Ricaree dogs, their friends were all dead, and they did not wish to live. They fell upon their besiegers at the same time with such impetuosity, that they were to a man destroyed."—Catlin's "North American Indians."
- ↑ Also spelled "Ricaras."
- ↑ Also "Sacagawea."
- ↑ In a letter to J. Q. Bowlby, of Astoria, Oregon, dated August 3, 1905, Newton J. Brown, postmaster of Landor, Wyoming, wrote: "I myself have seen Sacajawea. She died about the year 1884, and was buried near the Episcopal Church at Shoshone Agency."
- ↑ To indicate the struggle for existence among the natives in that locality at that time, the following is taken from the Lewis and Clark Journal: "Drewer, one of the white hunters had killed a deer. When the Indians reached the place where Drewer had thrown the entrails, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he could, and instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the kidneys-in short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped them."
- ↑ "Netul" by some authors.
- ↑ Also "'Tall-a-pus.",—Fred H. Saylor.