Oregon Historical Quarterly/Volume 26/The Discovery of the Source of the Columbia River

by Thompson Coit Elliott

THE DISCOVERY OF THE SOURCE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER

Settlement of the Oregon boundary dispute by the treaty of 1846 on the basis of the forty-ninth parallel of North latitude from the Lake of the Woods west to Georgia strait included a remarkable coincidence, in that such a line at its western end actually divided the watershed of the Fraser river from that of Puget Sound—using the last term broadly. This was as it should be by reason of the journey of Alex. MacKenzie in 1792, and the explorations of Simon Fraser in 1806 and the prior occupancy of the watershed of the Fraser by British tradings posts or forts. The United States had acquired any Spanish rights of discovery of the mouth of that river by Elisa in 1790 or 1791, but did not press that claim.

On the other hand the United States asserted a right to the entire basin of the Columbia river because of the first entrance of its mouth by Capt. Gray in 1792 and the explorations of Lewis and Clark in 1805-6, but waived such right to that half of the river, which lies north of the forty-ninth parallel. This also was just because an Englishman, David Thompson, had first found and explored that part of the river. This fact received little or no attention in the diplomatic controversy, and may also be called a remarkable coincidence. But in losing this part of the basin of the Columbia, the United States obtained all of the Puget Sound country, which Capt. Geo. Vancouver had discovered and explored and mapped in 1792.

These remarks serve to introduce the document now presented, namely, a cotemporaneously written account by David Thompson of his discovery of the source of the Columbia in 1807. The mss. transcript of this document has come to the writer through the courtesies of the Archives Department of the Canadian Government and a friend who is much interested in such research, Mr. John A. Chisholm, of Canada.

The written histories of the Columbia river have given very little attention to the discovery and exploration of its source and upper reaches, while much has been said about the finding and exploration of its mouth. The records left by Capt. Robert Gray, and John Boit, of the crew of the Columbia (Rediviva) have been reproduced, with maps and notes, in the pages of the Oregon Quarterly. The writer of this introduction has also contributed certain data as to David Thompson, but until comparatively recent years little has been known of the life and career of this remarkable man, who, first of white men, crossed over the Rocky Mountains of Canada and found the river there. This account—now presented—was written by himself and sent back that same year in the form of a report to his associates of the Northwest Company, then the active rival of the Hudson's Bay Company in the fur trade of Canada. This man David Thompson, officially designated the astronomer of the company, was a practical trader for furs, a careful scientist and close observer. This document has not before been printed, as far as known to the writer, and is of peculiar interest to the scientific student and the lay reader as well. The assertion that David Thompson first crossed over the Rocky Mountains may seem a trifle strong and need qualification; but there is a difference between crossing over the mountains and through them, and a great difference in the physical barriers at different parts of the range. With this in mind, David Thompson may be contrasted with Alexander MacKenzie and his famous journey in 1792, who is entitled to all honor therefor. But it is. to be remembered that MacKenzie stemmed the current of Peace river, which flows through the main range of the Rockies, and crossed a spur of that range to the westward at a low elevation. Further south the Lewis and Clark party in 1805 crossed the main divide by a very easy pass, the Lemhi, and came to the waters of tributary streams, not the river itself. It is known that intelligent Indians and men of mixed blood had crossed the Rockies to the Columbia prior to 1807, but without leaving any written or dictated report. In the future something may be found to disclose who did actually set eye upon some of the physical conditions existing west of the Rockies and appearing on maps published before and during the time of Jonathan Carver (Flathead Lake, for instance), but the above references seem to include all of our present knowledge of the subject.

The writer of this introduction has twice visited the source of the Columbia river and has taken phonographs there. For the better understanding of the lay reader it may be well to indicate here a few of the names and locations appearing in this document with reference to present day geography. The lake region where the Columbia rises is now easily accessible by a fine auto highway, extending across the mountains to Banff; but is was no such pass as that by which David Thompson crossed.

In 1807, and years before, the fur traders of the Saskatchewan prairies and streams of Canada had been doing business with small bands of Indians, who had crossed the mountains and descended the Eastern slope to a prairie or meadow of the foothills known to them as the Kootenae plain. This prairie was situated considerably north of the present site of Banff and the Canadian Pacific railroad. These Indians were known as the Kootenaes and therefore the river which David Thompson came upon on the 30th of June, 1807, flowing to the North, was called by him the Kootenae river: he did not know that he had found the Columbia. And, in distinction, the river now called the Kootenay was named by him the Flatbow river: just why we do not know. The name Flathead, as applied to the Saleesh Indians, is equally mysterious.

The trading posts or forts of the Northwest Company and the Hudson's Bay Company, located in the Saskatchewan country, were classed colloquially among the traders as Forts des Prairies, and the particular fort at which David Thompson outfitted in 1807 was called Rocky Mountain House, and was situated on a branch of the North Saskatchewan river some distance southwest from the present city of Edmonton. That city has grown up on a later site of Fort Augustus, which was, in 1807, some twenty miles distant from where Edmonton now is.

The pass over which David Thompson crossed, came to be and still is mapped as the Howse pass, a name applied by David Thompson himself in honor of a rival trader of the H. B. Co., who followed him through it. Very fittingly it might have been named the Thompson pass. The engineers who selected the route for the Canadian Pacific railroad explored this pass and some of them much preferred it to the pass actually used some distance to the south. The stream which David Thompson followed westward from the summit was afterward named Blaeberry creek: he referred to it merely as the portage stream. This pass has not been used for many years, and is blocked with fallen timber, the merchantable timber having been logged off and there being few meadows fitted for agriculture. This stream flows into the Columbia six or seven miles north of the divisional town of Golden of the Canadian Pacific railroad, near a siding called Moberly.

From that point David Thompson ascended the Columbia about one hundred miles and came to Windermere lake, a beautiful sheet of water, and further south to Columbia lake, which he described as being shallow, and quite properly so as compared with the former. Now the river flows northward out of Windermere lake at the edge of the bench or bluff at its eastern side, but in 1807 it probably used a channel at the western side of the lake (or at least partly flowed that way) and joined the stream coming in from the Selkirk range on the west now known as Tobey creek, but which David Thompson then named Kootenae river. It was close to the junction of those two streams that he built his permanent Kootenae House, as described. Just where he had built his warehouse for a temporary protection of goods and furs is not positively known, but it was not far from the fine log building which has been erected as a memorial there, at the joint expense of the Canadian Pacific R. R. and the Hudson's Bay Company, and which was dedicated with fitting ceremonies in the late summer of 1922.

Finnan MacDonald, the assistant of David Thompson—with the rank of clerk, was a remarkable Scotchman, then young and with limited experience, who remained in the Columbia basin till 1826 or 1827, and explored many parts of this region, and whose career demands a special contribution.

Jaco Finley, whose name appears, afterward built Spokane House (1810), and was a resident there as late as 1825-6. His name remains attached to several streams and localities of Old Oregon, and it is evident that he had been across the Rockies before 1807, and was then, probably, living in the Flathead country as a trapper on his own account. He again took on employment by David Thompson a few months later.

Mention is made of the name Ear Pendant Indians— referring to the Pend Oreilles; and this is the earliest use of that name which occurs to the writer. It must have come from free trappers—Indians or mixed blood, who used the French language and had already penetrated into the region of the Spokanes and other tribes.

Mention of the establishment of trade on waters of the Columbia in 1807 by Americans is merely an item of gossip, and shows how fast news travels among the Indians. This must have referred to the arrival of Manuel Lisa's men on the Yellowstone river, and possibly at the three forks of the Missouri on a trapping expedition. Those traders were from Saint Louis, and included two of the Lewis and Clark party—notably one named Colter.

With these rather extended—and to many readers unnecessary—remarks, which are intended to avoid the use of footnotes, the document is now presented.—T. C. Elliott.

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Narrative of the Expedition to the Kootanae @ Flat Bow Indian Countries, on the Sources of the Columbia River, Pacific Ocean, by D. Thompson on behalf of the N. w Company 1807.

May 10th Having built a large Canoe @ got all ready, being as well furnished with every Necessary, both for Trade @ Building as the upper Department of Fort des Prairies could supply—I sent off Mr. Finan McDonald @ 5 men in the Canoe, with orders to follow the River to the Kootenae Plain, where we would wait each other. One man with myself @ 2 half engaged Men going by Land @ taking in Charge 10 Horses belonging to the Company, carrying 300 lbs of Pemmican @ some Baggage. These Horses were for the Transportation of the merchandise &c across the Mountains, when the water Carriage should fail us. also 13 Horses belonging to the Men. On May 25 the Canoe arrived at the Kootenae Plain; the People had experienced much Danger @ Fatigue from the very strong Current; but as the water was very low, they were enabled to make use of the Line almost the whole of the way. I had picked out 2 very good new Lines at Kam @ yet they were found unequal to the rapidity of the Current, often breaking @ endangering the Men @ Property. The greatest Hardship of the People lay,in being continually wet up to the Waist, exposed to cold high winds, @ the water, coming direct from the Snows on the Mountains, was always so excessively cold as to deprive them of all feeling in their Limbs. On May 28th I sent the Canoe @ 6 Men down as far as the eastern Ridge of Mountains for the Goods we had placed there in the Winter; with which they arrived at the Kootenae Plain, all well the 2d June. On June 3d All the Horses @ Baggage &c arrived, having had extreme difficulty in getting hereto, from the badness of the Country @ the emaciated state of the Horses, no Grass as yet havg. sprung up in these cold Regions. Having rested the People @ Horses on June 5th I sent off the Canoe @ 6 Men with half Cargoe to proceed as far as the Water would permit. A Man @ myself going by Land. The Horses @ rest of the Property were left at the Kootenae Plain, in care of Mr. Finan McDonald @ a Man, as this was the last @ only Place, where Pasture could be found for the Horses or Animals for the People for Food. On June 6th at Noon we left the main Stream coming from the N. N. W^d. @ followed a Rivulet for ab^t. 4 Miles, where it becoming too shoal, we put the Goods on shore, @ I staid in care of them; the Men @ Canoe immediately went off for the remainder, @ by June 10 all was landed at my Residence the People returned to live at Kootenae Plain, 'till I should send for them. Here among their stupendous @ solitary Wilds covered with eternal Snow, @ Mountain connected to Mountain by immense Glaciers, the collection of Ages @ on which the Beams of the Sun makes/hardly any Impression when aided by the most favourable weather I staid for 14 Days more, impatiently waiting the melting of the Snows on the Height of Land. During this Time we arranged all the Goods @ whatever could receive Harm by Shocks against the Trees, Rocks &c in Boxes of thin Boards sewed together. The Weather was often very severe, cloathing all the Trees with Snow as in the Depth of Winter, @ the Wind seldom less than a Storm we had no Thunder, very little Lightning, @ that very mild; but in return the rushing of the Snows down the Sides of the Mountains equalled the Thunder in Sound, overturning everything less than solid Rock in its Course, sweeping the Mountain Forests, whole acres at a Time from the very Roots, leaving not a Vestige behind; scarcely an Hour passed, without hearing one or more of these threatening Noises assailing our Ears. The Mountains themselves for half way down, were almost ever covered with Clouds; in the chance Intervals of fair Weather I geometrically measured the Height of 3 of those that were most eligible, @ found their perpendicular Height above their Bases, or the level of the Rivluet to be 4707 ft. 5200 ft. @ 5089 ft. The Peakes of a few Mountains rose ab*. 500 to 700 ft. above these; @ considering their elevated Situation on the Globe, they fall little short of the most celebrated in Height above the Level of the Ocean. Wearied with waiting @ anxious to proceed, contrary to the Opinion of every one, I set off with Bercier, my Guide, to examine if the Portage was passable/ We started very early on 2 good Horses @ by 10 A. M. we were at the Head of the Defile or Ravine, where the Springs send their Rills to the Pacific Ocean; I this Sight overjoyed me. We held our Route down along the Brook, which was continually increasing it's Stream, our Road was very bad: by 1 P.M. from a View of the Country; I considered that part of the Defile as passed in which the Snow was most likely to remain; my Giude affirmed not but as all the Snow that lay direct in our Road noways incommoded us, being only Patches, altho' every Thing was dreary Winter about us. I determined to return immediately @ send for the Men @ Horses from the Kootanae Plain— June 24 in the Evening all the Men @ Horses arrived. I separated to the Men the Horses @ Goods that each might be responsible for what was put under his immediate Care. The Merchandise Stores, &c, were equal to the Carriage of 18 Horses in this rugged Country @ we had only 10 Horses. I therefore left the Goods we could not take in charge of Mr. Finan McDonald who was thus obliged to remain all alone, till the return of the men a disagreeable work. Our whole Stock of Provisions now amounted to no more, than 220 lbs of Pemmican, @ we had no Hopes of adding to it, as the Country at this Time of year affords no Animals. June 25 Early we collected the Horses @ set off every Man on foot, their own Horses carrying their Baggage— At 2 P. M. we put up at the Scources of the Brook, that falls into the Kootenae River, the only Place where there is a little pasture for the Horses. Our Road was mostly over Pebbles @ Gravel, crossing/@ recrossing continually the Brooks of the Saskatchewan— As I knew the Road before us to be almost impassable to loaded Horses, I sent 3 Men to clear away the wood as far as they could— June 26th We began to proceed down the Brook, a Man with myself going before @ clearing the way for the Horses, as much as Circumstances would permit, rarely, or never could even the Trace of a Road be discerned. As the weather was very fine, @ the first that had been this Season, the snow on the Mountains melted, @ the water descending in innumerable Rills, soon swelled our Brook to a Rivulet, with a Current foaming white, the Horses with Difficulty crossed & recrossed at every 2 or 300 yards, & the Men crossed by clinging to the Tails @ Manes of the Horses, @ yet ran no small Danger of being swept away @ drowned— At 2 P. M . put up as the Horses @ Men were much fatigued, @ as this was the only Spot where a little Pasture could be found— Gave the Men a large Dog for Supper for want of Better— Dried the Goods that had got wet. The Brook of this Morning runs in a deep Ravine closely hedged in by Mountains for ab^t. 6 Miles, the Mountains then recede @ leave a narrow Valley for the Course of the Brook, now swelled to the turbulent Torrent of a Rivulet. June 27 we continued our March but made little Progress for the time spent as we were almost every Step obliged to clear the way, in the Afternoon we took to the Flats of the Rivulet, now become a River with a Current extremely rapid, the Space occupied by the gravel Banks, was generally from 2 to 600 yds. wide over which the River ran in a Zig Zag Course, from Side to Side, so that we were ever crossing it, @ as it was now very/much swollen by the melting of the Snows, @ all the Flats covered, the state of the Men, Horses @ Property was very alarming, @ I every Moment expected to see one or other fall a victim to the fury @ depth of the River, however thank Heaven, we continued on 'till 6 P. M. when we put up with no other Accident, than having wet almost the whole of the Goods, @ the Men @ Horses very much fatigued. Here where the Valley is wide the State @ Foliage of the Herbs @ Trees, shewed Summer to have been here, at least a full fortnight or more. June 28 by 6¼ A. M. set off @ directly crossed the River, we now proceeded a short way, 'till the Country being impassable with Woods @ rocky Land, all Hands set to Work to clear a Road for ab^t. 1¼ M. @ by Noon got all our Horses &c this far, we now came to a low flat Points which havg Grass @ our Horses much fatigued, we stopped to refresh them, four Men now went off Axe in hand to clear away the Wood, @ by 4½ P. M. they returned, when heavy Rain coming on we camped for the Night.

Here is a hard Day's Work, at the end of which we found ourselves only abt. 1¾ Miles from whence we had set out this Morng. June 29th by 5¼ A. M. we set off, havg. gone in 3 dy. 2½ Miles, we came (to a) Brook, whose descent from the Mountains was so great, that notwithstanding it had not more than from 3 to 3½ ft. water, yet no loaded Horse could cross it without extreme Danger; we were obliged to throw a Bridge of very large Trees across it, @ at last succeeded; havg. carried all the Goods, Saddles &c. across/we obliged the Horses to cross @ altho' they were quite light, yet the Current swept them under for the distance of a few Feet. havg. reloaded our Horses, we went on in an old Kootanae Road, tolerable good 'till 11 A. M., when we stopped to clear the Path up a long high Bank; we then went over much fallen wood, the Country full of fine Timber @ great quantity of Herbage. At 6 P. M. we descended a Hill, dangerous to Horses, at the foot of which we camped. Killed a Red Deer, which made a most acceptable Meal. Animals are very, very scarce. Our route thro' the Woods has always been near the River Banks, the Stream from it's great Descent, a Torrent that seemingly nothing can resist, always foaming with it's Velocity against the inequalities of the Bottom @ may be abt. 60 yds. wide. June 30th Heavy Rain came on @ detained us till 8½ A. M. when we set off; cleared pieces of the Road, tho' in generall it was passable from the nature of the Country; crossed a Hill that forms a Point between this @ the Kootanae River, on the Banks of the latter, thank God, we camped all safe at 3½ P. M. set to work @ dried the Goods lost part of my little Stock of Sugar by the Water.

July 1st a very fine Day, we completed drying the Goods and put them all in good Order. July 2nd at 3 A. M. sent off two Men in a small Canoe up the River to endeavour to find the Kootanaes @ bring a few of them to our assistance, at 6 A. M. sent 4 Men with the Horses to recross the Portage for the rest of the Goods. My whole Stock of Provisions was now only 6 lbs of Pemmican, in a close woody Country/ very scarce of Animals, nor would our Provisions have held out so long, had I not shared out to each Man the scanty allowance of the day. I staid with 2 Men, one of whom very sick, unable to do any Duty. Having examined the Canoes built last year at a great Expence, I found one of them useless for Carriage, the other capable of carrying only 8 Pieces with 2 Men, so that I found myself absolutely obliged to build a large Canoe, otherwise I could not advance with the Merchandise; there being no farther Road for Horses: The information we had received ab*. the Birch Pine Cedar &c. proved to be quite false, @ I was obliged to search the Islands before I could find the Materials for a Canoe, on which I set to work with all Diligence being pinched by Hunger we tried angling, but could not procure Fish of any kind.

July 8th In the Evening the 2 Men sent to look for the Kootanaes, returned with 3 Lads @ the Meat of a small Chevreuil a grateful Sight, they had found 2 Tents of Kootanaes near the Lake @ had learnt from them that the body of the Tribe with the old Chief was very far off with the Canoe Flat Heads. Next morning sent the Lads an huntg. July 10 Mr. Finan McDonald with the Men @ Goods arrived @ all the Horses except one that was killed on the Spot in a bad part of the Road on the Port- age. July 11 finished the Canoe @ got in order to set off. Our sick Man was now so far recovered as to begin to work he had it seems in eating swallowed the Quill of a Porcupine which had perforated the Intestines, till it made its appearance under the middle of the Ribs on the left Side from whence I extracted it two days ago.

The Kootanae Lads we had sent huntg. not returning/, I was anxious lest some accident had befallen them. I therefore sent Mr. McDonald @ 2 Men in a small Canoe to look after them but they returned without havg. seen anything of them. The next day as we were ready to step into our Canoes, heard a shot below us, which we concluded to be fired by the Kootanae Lads; we went @ found them, they had killed a Red Deer; a small part of which half dried they had brought on their backs @ was a grateful Meal after 2 days fasting. From what has been said of the Road on the Portage, it is clearly seen that Jaco Finley with the Men engaged last Summer to clear the Portage Road, has done a mere nothing— the Road was no where cleared any more than just to permit Jaco @ his Family, to squeeze thro' it with their light Bag- gage and it is the opinion of every Man with me, as well as mine that Jaco Finley ought to lose at least half his wages for having so much neglected the Duty for which he was so expressly engaged at 150 £ pr. year, besides a Piece of Tobacco @ Sugar, @ a Clerk's equiptment. It could not be on acct. of Provisions, as they had always more than they could destroy. He had given in an acct. of having left Timbers for a Canoe, not one could be found, nor had he ever left one, as 2 of the Men, that were with him, & are now with me witnessed. As I had no Provisions for the Voyage, I offered the Men a Horse for Food, which they refused. Gave to each Man 1 fishing Line of 2 fms @ 2 Hooks. With a Man I now set off in a small Canoe, to hunt what Fortune might throw in my way. July 13 havg. killed 9 Swans I waited the Canoes, they did not arrive till Noon next day; havg. taken a Meal, @ given them the rest of the Swans, we set off, but could procure nothing more whatever for Food. July 16 as I was ahead a Kootanae Man @ woman in a Canoe of Pine Bark/came to us, we told them to bring us something to eat, but they paid little attention to us, @ we paddled on 'till 1 P.M. when we came to a Camp of 6 Men; they had a mere nothing for themselves, however by 4 P. M. we procured enough to make a Meal, @ they afterwards traded abt. 6 lbs of Buck Meat. I got 2 of them to go a huntg. @ late in the evening they arrived with 3 Swans, which they ran away with @ almost in an instant devoured, without offering us a Mouthful, seeing no Hopes of getting further good from these Hogs, next morning at day break I set off @ waited the Canoes, who soon coming up. I gave them the Morsel I had procured @ we all agreed to paddle on without delay to the Lake, in Hopes of getting a Meal of Fish by our Nets &c. July 18 at Noon we arrived at the Kootanae Lake extremely hungry @ fatigued, so that we were hardly able to paddle; luckily we found a few Berries, which relieved us a little; we hasted @ set the Nets.

Boulard, a half free Man, with the 3 Kootanae Lads, had agreed at the Portage to bring us the Horses hereto, but they arrived with only 3 Horses @ those the worst belonging to the Compy. this was occasioned partly by the laziness of the Fellow @ the badness of the Country, being almost impassable., from whatever Cause the want of the Horses was severely felt @ it was a material disadvantage to us in proceeding any farther, had it been necessary, especially in our low Condition.

The 9 Kootanae Men whom we had left behind, also arrived @ gave us near half a Chevreuil, which made a most welcome, tho' scanty meal for us. Early in the next Morng. we visited the Nets, but to our great Mortification not a Fish in them. From the State of the Country @ the Situation of my Affairs I found myself necessitated to lay aside/ all Thoughts of Discovery for the present @ bend my whole aim to an establishment for Trade &c.—and as our pressing necessities did not allow Time for Thought upon Thought. I set off to look out for a Place where we might build, that as soon as I saw the Property in safety @ a mode of living for the People I might be at liberty to seize every favourable opportunity of extending my knowledge of the Country. I had for a second iMr. Finan McDonald, who, however well intentioned was by far too unexperienced to act alone in the present unfavourable situation. I first examined the Lake, but found no Place that had Wood half sufficient, being only a thinly scattered sort of Hemlock @ after havg. passed the major part of the Day to no purpose, I was obliged to pitch upon a Spot at the Head of the River, on a Bank of abt. 240 ft. high, @ very steep @ not a drop of water but what must come up this Bank @ still we had nothing to build with other than straggling, stunted sort of Hemlock Trees,—not a Fir, nor Pine, within a Mile of us, @ those in a swamp across the River. We now got every Thing up the Hill @ pitched our Tents. As I was this Morng. searching for a Place to build on, we came to a wildHorsej that had been killed yesterday even, @ not knowing from whence to get a mouthful for the day, we took a little of the outside Meat, the inside we could not touch, as the Horse was not embowelled, @ a strong taint prevaded the whole Carcase, however it seemed tolerable Meat to us, @ we determined to try @ make a Meal of it; so soon as we arrived at the Camp, we boiled it, @ shared a small piece to/every Man who joyfully eat it, in hopes of its being portable in the Stomach, hunger is an excellent Sauce, we found the Taste tolerable good, @ 3 of the Men set off to dispute with the wolves the rest of the Carcase of the Horse, of which they brought abt. 100 lbs. But about 2 Hours after eating the Horse Meat we were seized with sickness of the Stomach, @ however much we wished to keep the Meat in our Bellies, were obliged to throw it up, @ thus ended our Hopes of being able to feed on wild Horses; tho' I attribute the Sickness we were seized with, by no means to the natural quality of the Horse Meat, but to the Putrifaction already begun throthe whole of the Carcase. In the eveng. I called the Kootanae Men together @ spoke to them about their inattention towards furnishing us with Provisions, @ that if they continued, we should be necessitated to return; they brought me three fourths of a Chevreuil, which for the present satisfied our Hunger. I then spoke to them concerning the Situation of the surrounding Tribes, they told me they expected the old Chief with all the rest of their Countrymen, in company with a large band of Flat Heads in abt. 10 Nights hence. As to the Flat Heads they believed them far off but would soon be here, when informed we had begun building, I accordingly engaged two of their Men of abt. from 30 to 40 years of age to go @ find the old Kootanae Chief @ tell him to hasten his coming @ to bring us Provisions. I also engaged a steady man to set off @ inform the Flat Bows of our arrival, with order to the Chief of that tribe, whom I had formerly seen @ given a Ring to come with all Diligence, as I wished him to pilot me thro his Lands, that I might also make an establishment for Trade in his Country. The Kootanae told me my messages/ would be highly agreeable to all Parties, @ promised to set out the very next Morning on their respective Commissions, assuring me that I might expect to see them again in about 10 or 12 Nights hence. What a fine Opportunity was here lost of going to the Flat Bow Country, from the embarrassed Situation of my Affairs; on one hand the Property was without Shelter @ the Men famishing, without knowledge from whence to get any Sustenance— on the other hand a large Band of Indians, part of whom had never seen white People was expected in a few Days @ perhaps a few Peagans &c with them— amidst much anxiety, nothing could sooth my Mind, but the expectation of the speedy arrival of" the Flat Bows, when I hoped still to have Time enough between my Departure @ the 15th Septr. (the day when the People must go off for the Goods from Kam) to explore at least the Flat Bow Country, @ by the Course of the large River, determine whether it is the Columbia or not. Sleep at last relieve's me from a Train of anxious thoughts. Circumstances, which I could neither foresee nor prevent. Early the next Morng. the Kootanaes traded a very few Lynx, among which were the Skins of 4 white Goats, with the wool of 4 others. I traded them to send to Montreal that their value might be known @ if worth taking. I also procured abt. 12 lbs of dried Provisions at a high price. Having given Tobacco to the Kootanae Men engaged to find out the other Indians @ Inform them of my being here. They immediately set off on their Journey. With the rest of those who are to stay near us. I sent Boulard to bring us any Meat he might be able to get from them. Here it may not be amiss to state the nature of the Country. This of the Kootanaes is a valley of from 6 to 12 Miles wide, if we compute from Mountain to/Mountain, but if only the level space, it will seldom exceed 2 Miles, being the Ground occupied by the River; it's Islands, small Lakes @ Marshes. It is bounded on the East by the great Chain of Mountains @ to the westward by a Chain of secondary Mountains, nearly as wide @ abrupt as the primeval Mountains, but do not rise above 3 to 4000 feet above the Level of their Base; close behind to the westward of those secondary Mountains, rise others far more elevated, covered with Snow @ Glaciers half way down. At the south extremity of this Valley, where the western Hills bend off to the Sw^d. @ the others recede to the eastward, lie the Kootanae Lakes, the southermost is a shoal Lake of abt. 6 M. long fed by small Brooks, but sends out a navigable Rivulet of abt. 7 M. long, which falls direct into the second Lake, on which we are situated, this Body Of water is very clear, @ has from 2 to 4 feet Water, is abt. 7 M. long @ 1 Mile wide, in its greatest width it sends out a Stream of from 50 to 60 yds. wide @ 3 ft. deep— 2 Miles from the Lake it is joined by the Kootanae River a rapid Current of 30 yds. wide, from the interiour of the western Mountains— they now one River under the name of the Kootanae River take its Course thro the Valley N. w . 70 Miles, to where we first saw it @ then bends round seemingly more to the westward, with a very strong deep Current; as it flows along it is joined by 2 other considerable Rivers @ several large Brooks, which soon swell it's waters to 200 yds. wide of clear Channel, but in general has many Islands, @ the Space occupied by the River, is seldom less than from ½ a Mile to 1 Mile wide.

That part of the Kootanae River near the Portage is well wooded with a kind of Hemlock 3 sorts of Fir, three of Pine, with Aspens @ Birch, @ it's sides are thick set with Alders-Willows, @ a few Poplar, abt. 20 Miles above the Portage are low points of fine white Cedars, the Red Cedars grow everywhere but seldom to any Size. Beaver seem to be plenty @ the River, Islands @ Valley seem expressly made for/ them. Of the Animals there are a few Bears @ others, a few Red Deer @ a small sort of Chevreuil, one of whom 10 Men will very well eat at a Meal. As one approaches the Lakes, the Woods of this almost impenetrable Forest, become gradually less close, @ abt. 25 Miles below the Lakes, begins to show small Meadows, @ soon becomes open clear Ground for Horses, bearing plenty of good Grass, with straggling Hemlock; the Spot that any Person is in, is a fine Meadow of Hill @ valley @ Gullies, with Hemlock planted upon it as it were for Shelter against the Heat @ bad weather, all the rest of the Country to" the Spectator appears a thick Forest, but as he advances, he constantly finds the same open Meadows, which become more @ more Spacious, as one proceeds to the southward, @ the Red Deer @ small Chevreuil become more @ more plenty. What kind of Fish the Lake produces we cannot tell, as all our angling, have produced only 1 small Trout @ a few Mullett as the Water is clear, Carp @ a small kind of Herring have been seen, from our Nets, however changed from place to place @ well attended, we never get anything. July 21st Havg. sent abt. 6 Miles for Birch for Helves for Tools, we began to cut down Wood for a Warehouse of 16 ft. by 16 ft. in the Clear— but the sort of Hemlock we have is hard to cut with the axe, @ very heavy, @ we can seldom get more than 16 ft. from a single Tree, which with the weakness of the Men, made the work go on slowly. July 24 we finished the warehouse @ put all the Goods within. During this Time our Nets afforded us not a single Fish; by angling we sometimes procured a scanty Meal of Mullets very weak food. The Men were now so weak, that however willing, they actually had not strength to work, @ some of them told me that two or three days more of Famine would bring them to the Ground, I deeply-Felt their Situation @ my own, but was determined still to wait a few Days before I could consent that any should return. We had tried several Methods to procure Food, but all had failed us. Berries were our principal support— too weak to go far about in this hilly Country, we very much felt the want of our Horses. I accordingly sent down three Men in a small Canoe to bring as many of them up as possible but to leave those belonging to the Company, that they might be fat @ ready for the Fall. At length, thank Heaven two Kootanae Men arrived, they saw our famished looks @ asking no Questions, gave every one a sufficiency to eat, which was most gratefully accepted, @ then traded with me Provisions enough for two days. Having got the Goods under Shelter we set to work to make a Weir across the River, the Current was deep & rapid, with a moveable Bottom of Gravel, the Kootanae told me the Weir could not stand, but strong necessity urged us on. On the 2nd day we had it nearly completed when part of it gave way; no ways discouraged, we repaired what was broken down @ endeavoured to finish the whole but the Stream was too violent @ breaking the Weir in some places, in others undermining it, it was so much damaged that we were obliged to abandon it as hopeless. One of the Kootanaes who arrived is the Brother of the old Chief, they promised not to leave us, @ said they were very thankful we had come on their Lands; after some Conversation they told me plainly that the Situation of the Building was bad, as it was far from water, @ open to the insult of the Peagans, who seldom fail every year to/make a Visit @ steal Horses. I had a long thought on this myself but was at a loss where to find a better Place; after much looking about, at last found an eligible Spot on the Kootanae River, in a commanding Situation, the water quite near, a rapid River in front, with a small, nearly surrounding Lake, that precluded all approach but on one Side, @ Pines enough at hand; these advantages decided me to change the Place of my Building. As I arrived in the evening an alarm was given of a Body of strange Indians being close on us, we ran to Arms; but fortunately it turned out to be only 3 Kootanae young Men, who had come ahead from a Band of 10 Men in the eastern Mountains, @ who are shortly to be in here; they had sent these three young Men to hunt for us, @ they brought us a scanty Meal on their Backs. July 29th we removed every thing to the Kootanae River, @ began cutting wood for the ^axehouse, which we completed on the 1st Augst. bad weather had hindered us much, during this Time we had made a shift to live by the huntg. of the Kootanaes, but our Nets however well attended @ changed from Place to Place yielded not a single Fish— Being now again totally destitute of Provisions, we dispersed ourselves to find Berries to satisfy our Hunger, @ were so fortunate as to angle a few fair Mullets, a dram of H wines had often done us much good, but our Keg, what with leaking @ with expenditure was nearly finished. Aug^st. 4th late in the evening the young Men came from huntg. @ brought 2 poor small Chevreuil @ next day one of the Men killed a Bear this gave us Life again, @ we began to cut wood for a dwelling House of 16 ft. by 16 ft. in the clear which was all cut and the major part/hauled to the Spot for the building. The Men whom I had sent for the Horses also arrived, with all the Horses of private Property, except one that was killed on the way, @ another lost.

Aug. 7 to 12 hard employed on Buildings. 4 Kootanae Men arrived who brought us Provisions,— also 5 Tents of do—who had much dried Meat, but the Hogs would not part with more than a day's allowance to us. Aug^st. 13 Provisions becoming short for want of a regular supply, for we cannot get these People to hunt constantly, they are so addicted to gaming. We again set to work to make a Weir in the Kootenae Lake River, with good Hopes to succeed, as the Water was much lower @ the Current not so strong. Aug. 15 finished the Weir, that is to say dammed the River from Side to Side, but have not made the Weir, as the Kootanaes say it will be of no real service till the Fall, what is now made is to Serve for the Salmon when they arrive. Aug. 13th Two young Men arrived from the Kootanae Camp, they had no sooner spoken that all the Men @ Women rended the Air with crying @ shrieking. We thought an Attack at hand @ stood to Arms when one of them came @ informed us, it was on account of the Death of the Son of the old Chief, who had been killed by the Peagans.

When they had made an end of their Lamentation, they informed me, that a very large Band of Peagans. Blood @ Blackfeet Indians had crossed to this Side of the Mountain @ made Peace with the Flat Heads; but as they were preparing to depart, the Meadow Indians began to pillage, which raised a Tumult, @ ended by the Flat Heads taking Arms @ killing 13 of the Aggressors @ obliging the others to fly with precipitation. /Four of the Flat Heads were killed @ several wounded. This affair had prevented these People from coming to pay me a visit as they intended @ they had all pitched away to a military Post of the Americans, except 10 of the Flat Heads, who were still with the old Chief. The Kootanaes were on the Point of being joined by a large Band of Flat Bows, the whole of whom, they assured me would be here in 10 Nights hence, the latter have a few Beavers, the others nothing. They also informed me that about 3 weeks ago the Americans to the number of 42 arrived to settle a military Post, at the confluence of the two most southern @ considerable Branches of the Columbia @ that they were preparing to make a small advance Post lower down on the River. 2 of those who were with Capt. Lewis were also with them of whom the poor Kootanaes related several dreadful stories. This establishment of the Americans will give a new Turn to our so long delayed settling of this Country, on which we have entered it seems too late; but, in my opinion the most valuable part of the Country still remains to us @ we have nothing to obstruct us, but the difficulty of getting Goods from Fort des Prairies, @ the still more formidable poverty of the Country in Animals. Time @ Perseverance will show what we can do, @ if worth our Expence @ Trouble. Aug. 15 The two Kootanae young Men returned @ with them several others— I sent Tobacco to the different Nations, with Word to the old Chief to hasten his coming, for I was exceedingly anxious to visit the Flat Bow Country, which could not be done, till I had seen @ arranged with these Indians, havg. none to do it for me.

Aug. 16 to 27 Men employed in building; during this Time we had finished a Hall @ a House for the Men, except the Chimney &c. 12 Peagan Men arrived singing their/War Songs; we sat down @ smoked with them, they were all young Men, who to all appearance had come to spy out how every Thing was situated;— they were somewhat troublesome but their numbers gave us no other alarm, than as we considered them the forerunners of a more numerous Band, tho' they asserted not; it is certain we are much in their Power. The Salmon now made their first appearance but too fugitive for us to profit by them; on the 29th we speared in the Night 5 Salmon, the largest weighed 26 lbs. they were tolerable good, but havg. come so far had lost all their fatness. Sepr. 1st we got this Band of troublesome Peagans away, they had all along persisted in waiting the great Band in Hopes of stealing Horses; but Hunger made them decamp. On going away they stole 3 of the Kootanae Horses— the only 2 Kootanae Men, who were here (except a very old Man) went off after them; a struggle ensued, @ the Peagans chased the Kootanaes a small Distance, but upon the latter firing upon them, the Peagans made off, but with the Horses they had stolen. On the first arrival of the Peagans the Kootanae Women (several of whom were left here, by the Men while they hunted far off) put the major part of their little Property under our Care; they now put the whole, @ came @ camped close to the House, the old grey headed Man, with the 2 young Men kept constant guard, @ by all appearance had there been 5 or 6 Kootanae Men, the Peagans would not have got off with their Plunder we also kept on the look out in case of Surprize—A Slave of the Peagans who stayed behind from the bad usage he had received, this poor fellow the Kootanaes took for a Peagan/@ would have killed him, had I not prevented them, but they were soon reconciled to him, when he said he was a Flat Head, @ to prove it, spoke that Tongue fluently. Late in the Evening a Kootanae Man arrived, he informed us, that he had the Day before left a Band of 30 Peagan Men, who were advancing hereto, @ that he had also met the Band of Horse Stealers, who were on their way to join the others. This News alarmed us, @ however much I wished to have been on Discoverey, I thought it fortunate that I was here, to guard against any attempt that might be made on the Property or ourselves.

Late at Night we heard a shot across the River, but did not answer it as the Kootanae told us, it was the Peagans who had followed hard after him, we kept guard the whole Night. Very early the next morning 3 Peagan Men arrived, as I knew them very well I asked what their Intentions were, they said they were come peaceably to smoke with the Kootanaes @ exchange @ trade Horses. Bad weather intervened, of which I made use to throw a Fence from the House to the steep Bank of the River. On the 5th Sepr. they arrived, as I saw 2 good Chiefs among them, I did not apprehend much Danger, but keeping on our Guard we did not permit them to enter the Fence, but sat without @ smoked with them. A few Kootanaes also dropped in, one after another, but soon decamped from the Trouble they had from the Peagans, in asking their Horses, Cloathing &c. On the evening Septr. 6th Bercier whom I had sent off to the great Band arrived with 2 Kootanaes they informed me, that a violent Distemper had taken the Flat Heads, which had communicated itself to/the Kootanaes @ Flat Bows, @ had brought the major part of them so low, as to prevent them from decamping, @ that many Children had already died of it; @ it was not expected they could be here under 12 or 15 days hence, altho' they were not far off. Three Tents of those People arriving Sepr. 7 & 8th confirmed the above, they were all very ill @ reduced to mere Skeletons— Sept. 9 part of the Kootanaes ill as they were decamped to get rid of the Peagans. One of them who had a good Horse @ which the Peagans wished to have, in order to get rid of their importunities gave his Horse to one of the Men for a sorry Mare, rather than the Peagans should have him.

A few Kootanaes also arrived with Provisions, these were mostly steady old Men, who were determined to stay @see the Peagans off. they traded abt. 4 days Provisions with me, @ would have graded half as much more, had not the Peagans begged so much from them. During this Time our Living was partly on Salmon @ partly on Meat, we made a Salmon Net of 45 fms long, but the strength of the Fish aided by the Current very often broke it. We also began a Net for small Herrings, but dare not set it till the Salmon are gone. The Timbers for the large Canoe being made of very bad cedar, for want of better at that Time, I sent off 2 Men in a small Canoe for green Cedar for other Timbers @ also wood for a small Canoe, which they brought at the end of five days. I again sent Bercier with a Kootanae to the great Band to hasten their coming, as the Peagans said they would not decamp till their arrival (5) lam also in want of Horses for the Portage, which I must trade from them./

Septr. 13 The Peagans, to our great satisfaction thought proper to decamp; hunger obliged them. As the Chiefs had made the young Men conduct themselves very orderly @ expressly forbid them to steal any Horses either from us—

The Kootanaes, I rewarded each with a foot of Tobacco @ 6 rounds of Ammunition @ each of the young Men with 3 In of Tobacco @ a paper of Vermillion. I preferred being at this Expence, to avoid the Trouble which they certainly had in their Power to give us, @ thereby perhaps bringing on a far greater Expence. After they were almost all gone, I was informed that their going away so peaceably was only an act of dissimulation to cover their intended future proceedings, @ that they had threatened we should not long be found here, @ that many of the married Men had said to the others not to steal Horses at present, as bye @ bye they should have them at their disposal. Two of them who remained behind gambling I had called to me, @ spoke to them about such perfidious Conduct; they told me that the young Men in general had wished for a Quarrel that they might have an occasion to steal Horses, @ had no doubt uttered many foolish Expressions; but the wish of the old @ steady Men was a good understanding between all parties. I told them we were well prepared for the worst that could happen, @ if any Trouble was given us, it was a very easy thing to build far out of their Power, @ where they would never get a pipe of Tobacco from us, but that all their Efforts would never make us relinquish the Trade /this Side of the Mountains, they again repeated they had no wish for a rupture @ were glad we were here to get a pipe of Tobacco in the Summer @ then we parted.

Septr. 16 . Twelve Rapid Flat Bow Indian Men @ 1 woman arrived, with each a small Parcel on their Backs; these People hunt on the Lands adjoining the Ear Pendant Indians @ make no use of Horses. Their Country is marshy, with thick woods, full of Lakes @ Rivers, in which they say there are plenty of Beaver, but except the Bear, no Animals larger than the small Chevreuil— Fish of various kinds of which Sturgeon is the principal, @ with Berries forms the greater part of their Food. They waited the great Band 3 days— during this Time I collected every information possible from them, 2 of them were very old Men, they spoke much to the purpose on all questions I asked, @ after drawing a Chart of their Country @ from thence to the Sea, @ describing,the Nations along the River, they assured me that from this House to the Sea @ back again was only the Voyage of a Summer Moon; but from the number of Falls &c it does not appear easy to go without a Guide.

I proposed to them to go down the Kootanae River, as far as the Ear Pendant Indians, if 2 of them would accompany me; but the old Men, answered that it was too late in the Season, @ that none of them were Men of great Note, @ therefore would be unable to protect me against the lower Indians, who were a set of harsh brutish People paying little respect to Strangers— they added that if I wished to go in safety I must employ/ the Chief of the Flat Bows (Ugly Head) who is on his Road hereto, @ who is known @ respected far off, @ who only is capable of guiding @ protecting us. I replied to their arguments but to no purpose. They said they had come so far merely to see us, @ had brought nothing as they did not know what we preferred, that their Country was very hard in Winter, @ that we could not live there. I told them Beaver, Bears, Otters &c were the Objects of our coming here. They assured me they would all make a good Hunt @ see me next Spring with the rest of their country men. They traded 29 Skins value, in Beavers, Bears, Cats, Otters @ Fishers, with a little Sturgeon Oil @ about a Bushel of Berries, these last I took merely that they might have the means of living @ to kill Beaver &c. @ go away contented but informed them that Furrs only for the future would be taken in excxhange for Goods. Septr. 19 after passing the whole night in gambling with the Kootanaes, they went away early in the Morning— They appear to be a handsome hardy race of People @ look something like the Muskagoes of Lac Winipeg. Septr. 17 Bercier whom I had again sent off to hasten the coming of the Indians with their Furrs arrived, he said they were so ill that no hopes could be entertained of their coming under 8 or 9 days hence. I was therefore necessitated to send off Mr. F . McDonald, @ 2 Men to trade 5 Horses for the Portage. I sent with him 150 Bals / @ Powder for this Purpose with Beads &c. to trade dressed Leather. Sepr. 22 in the evening they arrived @ informed me that the Kootanaes would not trade any Horses, altho they had far more than they could make use of. in hopes of getting a high Price for them at the House, they have been so much accustomed to high Prices for Horses, that we can procure none at moderate rates, but fortunately we set no Value on them @ necessity alone, compels us to get a few for the Portage, the Kootanaes will therefore be much disappointed if they expect to trade any Horses here, even at a low Price.

Mr. F. McDonald also informed me of a Quarrel that took place the other day, between the Kootanaes @ Peagans in which several Horses were Killed; but they understand so little of the Indian Tongue that nothing could be learned from them on that head, for certainly, nor from what Cause the Quarrel arose. The 150 Balls sent were lost along the Road, this is adding Misfortune to Vexation. I have however, with some difficulty got Horses for the Portage @ every thing else ready @ hope all will go well, @ with this Hope, thanking God for his past Favours, @ praying for his continued Protection I close this Narrative.

D. Thompson.

Mr. J. McDonald @ me, settled the Canoes for the Columbia for the next Summer from Fort Augustus, at 4 Men each, 18 Pieces, and I apprehend that 4 Men are not able to bring 18 Pieces to the Mountain Portage if MrMcDonald can get them to agree to this, I shall be very glad, it will be saving the Wages @ Equipments of 2 Men. but I fear the Goods at 4 Men will run too great risque of being lost. I now reckon myself at 6 voyaging Men, 1 Man to take of the Horses at the Kootanae Plain for the Portage. I Clerk @ I Summer Man @ myself for where necessary, to add 4 Men, is to put the 2 Canoes that may come at 5 Men each, & I think this is the best method.