Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/232

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132
Route 5.—Cuenca: Excursions.
Sect. I.

extent during the last Carlist war. On the 17th March, 1873, the Carlists surrounded the town, and after a struggle which lasted 7 hours, they left, after carrying away 69,000 dollars from the bank and principal inhabitants. In February 1874, they robbed in the province 50,000l. The town, which in the mean time had fortified itself, was besieged by the Carlist army, commanded by Don Carlos’s brother, Don Alfonso, and his wife Da. Blanea. On July 3, 1874, by the help of a double treason, they entered the town in the upper and lower part, and committed every atrocity. They burnt the archives, and Da. Blanca urged the troops on to sack the town.

Cuenca, in its good old times, produced great men of varied excellence. Among her worthies may be named Mendoza and Gil Albornoz, generals and prelates; the artists Becerril, Xamete, Yañez, and Mora, the best pupil of Herrera. Here were born Figueroa, the poet, and Alonso de Ojeda, the friend of Columbus; and last, not least, Lope de Barrientos.[1] The city bears for arms, “gules, a sacramental chalice, with a star of eight rays argent.”


§ 6. Excursions.

Excursions around Cuenca. Sportsmen who venture into the wild hills should take a local guide and attend to the provend.

Excursions are numerous and full of attraction for the geologist, lover of lakes, angler, and sportsman: nowhere is the deer-stalker more likely to pick up a stag or two than in the woods about Val de Cabras, which he may make his head-quarters: there is no posada, but he can be lodged at a private house at the end of the town. If there is venison in the neighbourhood, he will be sure to fall in with some in the mountains near the Nacimiento del Tajo, about 17 m. off: he may make his rough head-quarters at Poyatos, near the river Escabas: attend to the provend. At Buenache, 7 m., in its pine-clad valley, is the singular Cueva del Judio; and at Ballesteros, 7 m. south of Cuenca, is a black loch, called la Laguna Negra, which is said to have a subterranean communication with that of Fuentes, some cattle drowned in one having reappeared in the other. Another lake called el Pozo Airon, distant 31/2 m. from Almarcha, is said to be bottomless. There a Don Buesso, according to legend, threw in 24 of his mistresses stark naked, one of whom pulled him in after her. These waters nevertheless have in them neither fish nor mermaids. Visit the stalactite cave called la Cueva de Pedro Cotillas (taking torches), which lies about 10 m. up the delicious valley of the Huecar, near La Cierva, where fine violet jaspers are found. The waters of the Huecar possess a peculiarly fertilising quality, as its garden fringes evince. The whole route to Palomera, 7 m., in its valley is ever verdurous from perennial fountains, by which Cuenca is well supplied with water; they were set in action by an excellent hydraulist in 1538, named Juan Velez. The Fuente del Frayle, near Palomera, is more worthy of an Egeria than a friar. The mills on these streams, the pines and rocks covered with wild flowers, are truly picturesque.

6 m. from Cuenca is the extraordinary natural phenomenon of La ciudad Encantada—it is well worth a visit, but by no means go without a guide. Over a large track of land the waters, containing large quantities of lime dissolved by the carbonic acid which they carry, deposit this upon the horizontal strata, and have thereby produced the most wonderful and fantastic effects of ruined palaces and every variety of natural forms. For further detail consult ‘Botella on Cuenca,’ ‘Boletin Soc. Geografica,’ and local histories.

The botanist and angler will also ascend the Jucar, although the fish are shy from eternal poaching. The valley soon widens and becomes quite Swiss-like; about a mile up are the Fuentes del Rey, where Alonso was encamped: above this, a clear trout-stream waters the plain, having issued

  1. Consult ‘Biografias de Cuenquences Ilustres,’ Fernin Caballero, Madrid, 1870.