Page:A Handbook for Travellers in Spain - Vol 1.djvu/294

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192
Route 34.—San Sebastian to Bilbao.
Sect. II

(B) A pleasant walk can be taken to the Punta de Banderas, behind Olaviaga (see above), whence a superb view is obtained of the surrounding hills and valleys, with glimpses of the distant sea.

(C) The Paseo de los Caños—up the rt. bank of the river—also affords beautiful panoramic views down into the fertile valley of the Nervion: it is one of the favourite promenades of the townsfolk. Pop. 2639.

(D) Ascend the hills behind Abando, W. of the town. From them numerous points of view are obtained, from whence the silver line of the Nervion can be traced in one continuous winding course to the restless Bay of Biscay.

ROUTE 34.

San Sebastian to Bilbao, by Zarauz, Deva, and Guernica—or by Cestona, Azpeitia, Loyola, Eybar, and Durango.

There are 2 roads which connect San Sebastian with Bilbao besides the railway by Miranda, (A) by the sea-coast and Guernica, (B) by the valley of Loyola. We give them both.

Diligences leave the Boulevard at San Sebastian daily.

(A) The diligence-road between San Sebastian and Guernica is of recent construction. It passes through a beautiful and well-cultivated country.

Taking the main road to Madrid, and skirting the bay of St. Sebastian, at 41/2 miles we turn to the right and enter the valley of the Oria. A good carriage-road leads down the right bank of this river, which rises near the Puerto San Adrian.

63/4 m. Usurbil. Pop. 1800. Observe its picturesque Parroquia. Hence the scenery of the valley becomes finer, and the road is cut out of steep rocks on the right.

53/4 m. Orio, a dirty village inhabited by fishermen and shipwrights. Here the Oria finishesits beautiful course to the sea, being separated by a narrow ridge from the basin of the Deva. It was formerly crossed by a fine bridge, which has not yet (1880) been rebuilt since its destruction by the Carlists. A footbridge alone remains for passengers, whilst vehicles and animals cross by a ferry-boat. The roads wind up the mountain range on the S. bank through a pretty wood, at the top of which a narrow Puerto is traversed, and we suddenly burst on a beautiful and well-cultivated plain, at the W. end of which, on the seashore, is

51/2 m. Zarauz. Pop. 2120. A good Parador where the diligences stop, kept by Vicente Otamenti. Although the beach is fine and sandy it is totally unprotected from the heavy Atlantic swell, which renders the bathing somewhat dangerous. Several of the nobility of Madrid have marine villas in the neighbourhood.

In the parish Church there are three retablos, all ornamented with good Italian sculptures of the 16th century. In the former convent of San Francisco may be seen several large pictures which belonged formerly to a triptych. One of them is signed Ablocklani. Inve. 1677. Notice in the principal street an interesting house with a stone façade of the 15th century, and a half ruined tower. Zarauz suffered much during the Carlist war, but the pleasant road along the coast to Guetaria has been thoroughly repaired, and is in good condition.

21/2 m. Guetaria. Fine port for vessels of all sizes. Pop. 1013. A small port protected by 2 moles. The ch. is a very remarkable Gothic edifice of the 13th centy. in a sad state of dilapidation. The navigator Juan Sebas-