mosquitos. The regular form of uncharitable rejection is as follows:—Perdone V. (usted) por Dios, Hermano?—“My brother, will you excuse me, for God’s sake?” If this request be gravely said, the mendicant gives up hope of coppers. Any other answer except this specific one, only encourages importunity, as the beggars either do not believe in the reality of the refusal, or see at once that you are not a Spaniard, and therefore never leave off, until in despair you give them hush-money to silence their whine, thus bribing them to relieve you from the pleasure of their company.
In church Spanish women generally seat themselves on the pavement when at prayers; it is against all ecclesiastical propriety for a lady and gentleman, even man and wife, to walk about arm in arm in a church. Spaniards, on passing the high altar, always bow; beware of talking during Mass, when the ringing of a little bell indicates the elevation of the Host. It is the custom to take off hats when the consecrated wafer is carried by in the streets; and those Protestants who object to perform this act of respect should get out of the way, and not offend their Catholic brethren by a rude contempt of their most impressive ceremonial.
Conform, as nearly as you can, to the hours and habits of the natives; get up early, which is usual throughout Spain; dine or rest in the middle of the day in summer, for when everybody is either at table or the siesta, it is no use to be running about sight-seeing when you are the only person awake. On all occasions remember that most locks in Spain are to be picked with a silver key, and almost every difficulty moothed away by a properly administered bribe, and how small an additional percentage on the general expenditure of a tour through Spain is added by such trifling outlays! Never wage a guerilla warfare about shillings and half-crowns, but have always plenty of small silver coins, for great is the amount of good will, and having your own way, to be purchased in Spain by the judicious use of pesetas.
When on a riding journey, attend to the provend; take a mosquito net, and some solution of ammonia, the best antidote to their stings; never rub your eyes when inflamed by sun-glare and dust except with your elbows, los ojos con los codos, but use hot water to them frequently, or a lotion of calomel and rose-water. “Prevention is far better than cure.” The only real safeguard consists in wearing a pair of German goggles during the glare of noontide.
Letters of Introduction are desirable. In cities, when a lengthened stay is contemplated, their utility is obvious. They may be procured and taken on tours and excursions, but need not always be presented. Of service in cases of difficulty, they involve otherwise much loss of precious time in visits and in formal intercourse with strangers, whom one never saw before and may never meet again; and for your life avoid being carried off from the fonda or posuda to a hospitable native’s house, if freedom and taking “ease in mine own inn” have any charms.
In choice of lodgings—in winter, secure upper floors which have a southern aspect; in summer, a cuarto bajo (or ground-floor apartment) is the coolest. In Spain, during the cold months of the year, the sun
