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CHAPTER XVIII.

DARTMOUTH

A first visit to Dartmouth—Descent of the Dart—The Church of S. Saviour—John Hawley—The Butter Row—Slate-covered houses—The Ship Inn—Walk to the sea—Warfleet—S. Petrock's—The Castle—Attacks on Dartmouth—The Golden Strand—Kingswear—Burying under foundations—Newcomen—Sir Walter Raleigh and his pipe—Slapton Lea—Dame Juliana Hawkins—Visits to be made—What not to be done.

I WILL tell you how I first saw Dartmouth before I proceed to say anything about it, and then the reader will perhaps understand the peculiar affection with which I write about it. It happened early one June that I had made every arrangement to go with a friend a walking tour among the Dolomite Alps. We were to meet in town and cross the Channel together to Antwerp.

At the last moment some particularly vexatious business cropped up which detained me, and I had to wire to my friend that I could not be with him on the day fixed, but would, if possible, meet him in Cologne. In two days I saw it was all up with my Continental excursion, and I was obliged to telegraph to Cologne that my friend must go on his way by himself.

Now when a man has been slaving at his desk

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