A COMPLETE COURSE IN DRESSMAKING
sewing. A French seam is the neatest finish for underwear, cotton dresses, blouses and little girls’ frocks of gingham, chambray, organdie and like materials.
A French seam is also used for silk and no finish is daintier than a French seam hand run in a batiste chemise, an infant’s nainsook frock or a little girl’s party frock of chiffon.
To make a French seam, lay the two pieces to be joined with the wrong sides of the goods together and stitch the length of the seam, running the stitching one-eighth of an inch from the edge. See Fig. 47. Turn the pieces wrong side out and crease along the joining. Press the garment and stitch a second time, running the stitching one-quarter of an inch from the creased edge. See Fig. 48.
This gives a neat finish on both the right and the wrong side of the garment but a French seam won’t answer for every purpose. Don’t use a French seam in thick material. It is too bulky.
Don’t use a French seam where you want a flat finish. For instance, at the shoulder a French seam will make a ridge. Except in sheer materials, an open or double stitched seam is better.
Don’t use a French seam where you want a tailored finish. A tailored blouse or a boy’s shirt looks better with double stitched or lap felled seams.
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