Page:A complete course in dressmaking, (Vol. 4, Blouses) (IA completecoursein04cono).pdf/40

the hem which comes beyond the center-front ought to be finished before the collar is joined to the waist. Fig. 42 shows one of the easiest ways of finishing such a hem.

Fig. (43) The hem stitched

First turn the hem onto the right side of the goods. Then, stitch across the top as far as the center-front, which is the lowest point of the neck line. (See Fig. 42.) Slash the seam at the upper edge at the center-front and turn the hem onto the wrong side. It will appear as in Fig. 43. Turn under the back edge of the hem and stitch it in place. Finish both fronts in the same way. Fig. 44 shows the stitching of the hem nearer the bottom.

Now you are ready for the shoulder seams. In a tailored waist, a lap-felled seam gives the smartest finish. Figs. 45 and 46 show the process of making a lap-felled seam.

Next sew on the collar. It is easier to sew on the collar while the waist is out flat, than after the underarm seams are closed. To line the collar, lay the collar lining on the right side of the collar and stitch around the outer edges: then turn the collar right side out.