Page:A voyage to Abyssinia (Salt).djvu/207

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ROUTE TO MUGGA.
199

remarkably gay and cheerful disposition, and not particularly reserved in her manners; frequently interchanging cups with her friend, Mr. Pearce, across the table, and evidently expressing regret at the restraint imposed by her husband's presence. The whole scene, indeed, though not uncommon in other countries, afforded a striking instance of the superiority which ladies of rank in Abyssinia are accustomed to assume over their husbands. A trifling circumstance that took place in the course of our conviviality contributed much to my amusement. I had given a ring to our hostess and another to her spouse, but the lady not being satisfied with the one she possessed, managed by artful endearments to coax her husband out of the other, telling him, among other reasons to induce him to comply, that, "if he would not part with it, it would be plain he loved the ring better than herself!"

On Saturday morning we left the Ozoro's mansion about ten o'clock, and followed a southern course down a highly cultivated valley, through which a stream runs called Mai Feras. The land hereabouts appeared to be highly productive. The first crop of peas had not been gathered in, though the second crop of wheat and barley was making a rapid progress and seemed to promise a very abundant harvest. This productiveness of the soil must be considered, in a great measure, as owing to the industry of the inhabitants and their skill in irrigating the land, the effects of which, where a constant supply of water can be procured, proves highly beneficial. The common mode, practised here, consists in digging small channels from the higher parts of the stream, and conducting them across the plain, which is thus divided into square compartments according to the general practice adopted in India. In the course of the morning the rest of our party re-joined us, and we proceeded to a village situated, as usual, at the top of a lofty hill, where we took up our residence for the night. Here it was determined, for the convenience of the party, that we should divide; and accordingly I proceeded with Mr. Smith and Mr. Pearce in advance, while Debib and the others had orders to follow, by slower marches, with our baggage in the rear.