darker shade over the general desolation of the scene. The most remarkable of these remains consists of a line of cisterns situated on the north-west side of the town, three of which are full eighty feet square and proportionally deep, all excavated out of the solid rock, and lined with a thick coat of fine stucco, which externally bears a strong resemblance to marble. A broad aqueduct may still be traced, which formerly conducted the water to these cisterns from a deep ravine in the mountain above. Higher up there is another still entire, which at the time we visited it was partly filled with water. In front of it extends a handsome terrace, formerly covered with stucco, and behind it rise some immense masses of granite, which being in some parts perpendicular and in others overhanging it, form during the hot weather a most delightful retreat. Some Arab children, who attended us in our excursions, were highly pleased when we arrived at this spot, and plunging headlong into the water much amused us with their sportive tricks. In most Mahomedan towns the insolence of the children is particularly annoying to strangers; but here, from their having been a good deal accustomed to Englishmen, their behaviour had altered its character, and their playfulness was often exceedingly diverting; they ran about collecting flowers for us, and as we went along entertained us with their singing, tumbling, and wrestling; and sometimes they pretended to cry from fatigue, or feigned to have hurt themselves, and, if we expressed any concern for them, would jump up and laugh at the deception they had practised upon us. In one excursion up the mountain a little female child not more than five years old accompanied us the whole way, though the road was very steep and difficult of access. A few commassi, given as a reward on such occasions, made these wild urchins completely happy.
Aden, on the northern and western sides, is protected by a steep and craggy mountain, on the pinnacles of which stand several ancient towers erected by the Turks. The striking appearance of these from a distance had long made me entertain a wish to examine them; and for this purpose, on Friday the 6th, I resolved to ascend the mountain. The road is extremely steep, and much in-
