Page:Archaeological Journal, Volume 1.djvu/353

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ENGLISH MEDIEVAL EMBROIDERY.
335

the sacred monogram) by cord or common twine, which in its turn was whipped over (guipé) but completely covered with a thread of the same metal. The other mode (en couchure) was the most ancient of embroideries; it was made with coarse gold thread or spangles, sewn in rows one beside another.
These two examples shew the Mode of sewing the bouillon and purl (frisure.)

Manner in which the end of the silk is taken in the eye of the needle to the ends, when it is wished to draw it under the stuff.

The introduction of spangles (pailletes) took place at an early period. They are often seen representing tendrils, springing from the points of leaves, and are very rarely found sewn upon the device itself. Manner in which the end of the silk is taken in the eye of the needle to the ends, when it is wished to draw it under the stuff.
Old method of putting on the pailettes.


Paillons, before and after they are sewn on with bouillon and purl.
The conventional devices most usually adopted in Medieval Embroidery, were leopards of gold; black trefoils; white harts having crowns round their necks, with chains, silver and gilt; Catherine wheels; falcons; swans; archangels; stars; fleur-de-lis; lions; griffins; hearts; moons; stars; peacocks; dragons; eagles displayed; lilies; and imaginary leaves and flowers.

charles henry hartshorne.