Page:Blackwood's Magazine volume 137.djvu/245

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1885.]
Life in a Druse Village. – Part II.
239

and struck thereby; and whenever they receive visits from the sheikhs of neighbouring villages, which is happening constantly, they are instantly brought to see me, and if I am absent, shown over the place by one or other of the village notables, who are much flattered and gratified by their mashallahs, and other expressions of surprise and delight, as they think how their guests will return to their own village and expatiate on the wonders they have seen. It must not be supposed that they have seen anything but a very modest abode; still it has some of the marks of civilisation about it, and to these unsophisticated people they are indications of great grandeur. What astonishes the women most is, that my wife does not go down to the well twice a-day for water with a jar on her head, nor does she make "barbarica" or mud-plaster, or climb into the fig-trees to pick the fruit, or bake the bread, or indeed perform any of the whole duties of woman. This apparent indifference to all ordinary feminine avocations is a never-ending source of envy and surprise, which is increased by the still more incomprehensible fact that she occupies herself largely in studying Arabic, painting in oils, and doctoring the inhabitants. At first they somewhat mistrusted her skill in this particular; but she has been so successful in her practice, having indeed elsewhere had a pretty extensive medical experience, that her fame is spreading to an inconvenient extent, and every morning now sees a group of patients waiting to be treated. Practice here, however, presents difficulties unknown to the medical profession in more civilised countries. It is impossible to have any instructions carried out, partly from prejudice, partly from stupidity, and partly from ignorance. The patient who requires fresh air and quiet, always lies in the one public room, surrounded by a crowd of waiting-women if his disease is serious. The people have no idea of time, excepting with reference to distance. If you ask them if they know what an hour is, they say it is as far as from here to Esfia. Hence it is hopeless to prescribe doses to be given at intervals, excepting sunrise and sunset. All periods of time are uncertain. In the summer, fevers are prevalent, because nearly the whole of the population moves down to the cabins on the plain of Esdraelon, where the village owns about 300 acres, the crops on which they have to get in and thrash. These mud-huts are only inhabited during the two or three summer months, but they are the most feverish of the year. Otherwise there is very little sickness in Dahlieh, the climate of which is both healthy and agreeable all the year round.

Accidents and wounds are, however, common, which often terminate fatally owing to the absence of surgical assistance. My curiosity was one day excited by the perpetually tearful condition of an old woman, apparently in the extreme of poverty. Upon making inquiries in regard to her circumstances, I found that she had been entirely dependent for support upon an only son. This young man was noted among his companions for his strength, and being not long since on his way to the neighbouring village of Umm-es-Zeinat with a donkey-load of grapes and figs, was waylaid by three of the Umm-es-Zeinat men. Being armed with a heavy club, he succeeded in keeping these at bay. They were, however, joined by four others; and