THE HEIAN EPOCH
and a pair of long chopsticks in his left, proceeded to kill a fish and prepare it for the fire, never allowing anything to touch it except the knife and the sticks. Seen for the first time, the spectacle was frank enough to be disgusting; but its revolting features were soon forgotten in consideration of the dexterity, grace, and solemn dignity of the officiating cook's movements and demeanour. Sometimes the host himself took a conventional part in this function by way of special compliment to his guests.
Considering how much the Japanese borrowed from China during the interval from the seventh to the twelfth century, it is not surprising to find that, like the Chinese, they used a large table for dining purposes. But they did not employ chairs or stools, nor were dishes handed round. They sat on cushions, and all the viands for each diner were ranged before him in utensils reserved for him alone. Even salt, vinegar, and soy were not in common, every convive having his own special supply. According to Chinese custom the principal viand is piled in a large bowl or dish from which all help themselves at will. Such a method could never have been reconciled with the Japanese instinct of cleanliness. Besides, the Japanese considered that a good dinner must be picturesque as well as palatable. The shaping and decorating of trays and stands, and the arranging of the viands upon them became a deeply studied art. Fine porcelains were not yet procurable, for
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