been applied the soft brick show, touch them up before applying the finishing coat. This will even up the work.
The Paint. The first coat for brick and foundation flues should be mixed thin so as to strike into the brick to a good depth and form a foundation for subsequent coats. Ten per cent of the total amount of thinners used in the priming should be turpentine. The second coat should be mixed half flat and well brushed over the surface. The third or finishing coat should be elastic, of good consistency and applied smoothly and evenly.
Window Sash. If the house is to be finished in natural wood on the inside, shellac the sash on the inside and prime on the outside. Paint the rabbit for the glass so that putty will adhere. Before setting the glass, apply a coat of varnish to the inside and a coat of paint to the outside of the sash. This will save a great deal of time in tracing. If the sash is to be black or dark color, give the surface a second coat of lead color mixed half flat. Never use black or dark sash color on bare wood.
Outside Blinds. Outside blinds should be primed before the carpenter fits them to the window. This will assist in keeping the blinds from swelling. Paint for all coats on blinds should be thin and well brushed out. Do not allow the paint to be heavy on the rail or ends of slats. Lay the blinds on a trestle with the stick side up. In painting, care must be taken not to get too much paint on the ends of slats, otherwise they will stick. If the work is to be painted green or any dark color, finished with two coats, the best results can be obtained by applying a priming coat of oil paint lead color. The finishing coat must be mixed with raw oil and sufficient dryer to set the paint. If three-coat work, prime with oil paint lead color, second coat with a finishing color mixed with part turpentine. Do not paint the ends of the slats or inside rails with this coating. This surface should receive but two coats of paint. The finish-
