brushed out smoothly and evenly without crawling or slipping under the brush. The paint will dry without danger of puckering, leathering, or flattening of the finishing coat as would be the case in a short time if applied over a high gloss. It is also very apt to crack and peel if oily coats are applied one over another. It is almost impossible to have solid painting with an excess of oil in undercoats as the coats will most always be spongy, rarely adhering closely to one another.
Finishing Coat—Three-Coat Work. See that the undercoat is hard dry over the entire surface. The surface should be perfectly clean and free from dust and dirt. Reputty where necessary. Follow the same precautions as previously given for finishing coats. Brush thoroughly and carefully. Use a full stock brush properly broken in. Do not use new brushes for finishing coats. The paint for this coat should be the most elastic one applied, as it must stand the most severe exposure. It should be of good consistency with a full oil reduction, mixed so as to brush out smoothly and evenly, remain where left without danger of running or sagging and dry from the bottom out. The drying and gloss are always assisted by having the under or middle coats properly reduced and applied. Follow previous instructions as to cleaning off body color on parts that are to be trimmed. Bring down and square up the work so as not to show laps or poor workmanship.
Roof. Be sure the surface is dry. Do not use tar oil or other offensive smelling oils that will ruin the cistern water. Turn supply pipe from cistern when painting the roof. Mix the full amount of paint requiied for the first coat, as it is very difficult to make two mixes for shingles which will appear the same. Apply uniform coats to prevent spotting. Have the priming coat thin so it can be easily worked into the cracks. Keep ladders from resting on tin or in gutters. Hook over the comb of the house. Trim the ridge-board and coping as the work progresses. In doing this work do
