flat ground colors and color ground in japan and exterior varnish.
Iron Store Fronts. Thoroughly clean the surface. If the work has been covered with a shop coat, scrape and thoroughly sandpaper before applying the paint.
In painting an iron store front in oil or flat color and varnish, the treatment should be the same as for a wooden front, with the exception of the first coat. The surface being non-absorbent, the first coat must be mixed so as to dry firm and hard by oxidation and evaporation. If to be finished in oil paint of a light tint with a lead or zinc base, the first coat should be reduced with 1-3 oil and 2-3 turpentine. If a solid oil is to be used, such as black, red, etc., reduce with turpentine and a small proportion of japan to assist in hardening. Allow ample time for thorough oxidation. Finish with one coat of oil paint. If to be painted and varnished, the first coat should be mixed with 3⁄4 turpentine and 1⁄4 oil, tinted to approximate the shade of the ground color to be used. When hard dry, sandpaper and proceed with a flat coat of ground color as for a wooden surface.
Interior Finish—New Work. The protection and preparation of the surface should be the first consideration and should be as carefully planned and carried out for plain painting, staining, varnishing or natural finishing as for more expensive work, as these are often the foundations for a better class of future finishing.
Inside door frames should not be set until after the plastering has been completed, then put in with the other finish, otherwise the mortar will stain the wood badly and these stains cannot be removed without a great deal of trouble. In fact, frames are often ruined by mortar stains and bruises from plasterers removing their scaffolding. These bruises and stains especially ruin the work when it is to have a natural stain or finish.
If the frames are set, they should be protected before
