precaution in this respect will save much trouble, and although it takes longer to mix the paint, it is the much safer plan. Of course, a practical painter who is used to mixing paints can add the necessary amount of colors without taking these precautions.
Having mixed the paint, add as much driers as may be necessary, taking care not to use too much. Then the paint should be strained through a fine wire strainer. It is well to mix up enough of the paint in one batch to do the whole of the job in hand, so that there may be no trouble or waste of time in matching tints. Paint mixed in cold weather is very likely to give unsatisfactory results, because the oil will stiffen and be more difficult to form into a perfect admixture. To remedy this, a gallon or so of the oil should be heated, and this poured in will warm up the paint, and prevent it pulling when applied, and so avoid the unnecessary force required to draw the brush along.
In preparing oil paint, the first question to be considered is the nature of the surface to be painted, whether of wood, stone, or metal, and to what degree it is absorbent; second to this must be remembered the conditions and position of the work, such as refer to expense, durability, and drying qualities; and lastly, to bear in mind the all-important matter of appearance and color, whether the paint is for the first or last coat.
The quantities of driers, oil, and turpentine required to bring 100 pounds of white lead to the consistency of paint is a matter that must be varied according to the conditions of the work it is required for. In summer-time, 1 pound of good driers to 14 pounds of white lead is ample for out-door purposes; in winter-time, 1 in 10 would be best. The quantity of oils required would be about 11⁄2 gallons for 100 pounds of lead. The proportions of linseed oil and oil of turpentine it is advisable to use depends entirely, upon the purpose it is intended for. With reference to the question of boiled or unboiled oil, it should be remembered that both
