at each end of the board a pair of steps. Now, with a pail of clean hot water, a distemper brush, a large piece of sponge, and a piece of coarse canvas on a board or table, start at one corner of the room to lay or soak in a patch with water, gently stirring the old distemper with the brush. Get the old distemper thoroughly soaked, then wash it off with the canvas, finishing with the sponge, frequently rinsed in water. This is to get rid of every trace of the old distemper. This is a most important process, which cannot be too strongly insisted upon. Neglect in this part of the work will result in a dirty or uneven appearance in the finished ceiling. If only the loose portions are removed, even the most skilful application of calcimine cannot hide the patches. They will be either of a different color or else will show the shade from a different level of surface. Do not wet the surface more than necessary, and frequently change the water as it gets dirty. Sometimes the calcimine is especially difficult to get off on account of the original coat having been bound down, as it is called, instead of having been washed off before it was last calcimined, which is very often done for the sake of cheapness. Liquid ammonia in a separate pail half full of water will greatly assist when soaking bound distemper. Avoid touching the wall-paper with the brush, but finish the last inch or so of margin with the sponge or canvas.
When the surface of the ceiling has dried, any rough patches there may be should be scraped or rubbed smooth.
If there are any cracks in the ceiling, run the point of a small trowel along them, to clear out any loose bits; with a sash-tool wet the parts of the ceiling where the cracks are, and then, using a stopping-knife, fill them in with plaster of Paris mixed with water in which a little alum has been dissolved. A little whiting mixed with the plaster will keep it from setting too quickly.
Or mix fine plaster of Paris with glue size, and fill up holes and cracks, and when dry level with a knife or
