a feeling of warmth during the winter toilet, and they should of course be washable in every part, as otherwise the steam from hot baths may destroy the work in a very short time.
Black Varnish for Ironwork. The following is recommended as a good recipe for a black varnish for ironwork: Take 1⁄2 pound of asphaltum and 1⁄4 pound of resin, and dissolve in 1 pint of turpentine, rub 2 ounces of lamp-black with a little linseed oil to form a paste, and stir this into the first-mentioned ingredients. The mixture, now being ready, can be painted on any ironwork with a soft flat brush.
Boiling Points. Mercury, 630° Fahrenheit, linseed oil, 266° Fahrenheit, olive oil, 412° Fahrenheit, sulphuric acid, 410° Fahrenheit, oil turpentine, 315° Fahrenheit, water, 212° Fahrenheit, and alcohol, 174° Fahrenheit.
Carver's Polish. In 1 pint of spirits of wine dissolve 2 ounces of seedlac and 2 ounces of white resin. The principal use of this polish is for the carved parts of cabinet work, such as standards, pillars, and claws. It should be laid on warm, and if the work can also be warmed at the time it will be still better. All moisture and dampness should be carefully excluded.
Cement for Marble. Stir to a thick batter with silicate of soda, 12 parts Portland cement, 6 parts slaked lime, 6 parts fine lead, 1 part infusorial earth. This is very excellent for marble and alabaster. The cemented objects need not be heated. After twenty-four hours the fracture is firm, and the place can with difficulty be found.
Cement Mortar. About 8 parts of furnace ashes, slag, or coke, 4 parts of slaked lime, and 1 of clay, are taken and mixed dry, so as to form a cement, which, on mixing with water, sets in the ordinary way. The proportions of the materials may be varied so as to produce either an aerial or hydraulic cement.
Cleaning Paint. Provide a plate with some of the best
