Page:Darien Exploring Expedition.pdf/56

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758
HARPER'S NEW MONTHLY MAGAZINE.

fearfully swollen. He accordingly ordered the Padron of the natives to put one man in each canoe, both to paddle and steer it, while two English seamen were retained for the sole purpose of paddling. The officers having managed their own canoes thus far, it had a good moral effect, and convinced the natives that the whites were not so dependent on them as they supposed. The dexterity which the English seamen displayed in the management of the boats surprised every one, but was accounted for by the fact that the Virago had been for some time under repair in Puget Sound, on the northwest coast of America, where the sailors had frequent opportunities of amusing themselves with the canoes of the Indians, which are much less stable even than those of the Isthmus.

At dark they encamped on a shingle beach, and, after a hearty supper, set the watch, which consisted of one officer and two sentries. The remainder were soon asleep around the watch-fires.

As rapids were becoming frequent, one of the native canoes was detailed to assist the English to stem the strong current, which they did by dragging them over by hand. The other was permitted to go ahead for the purpose of hunting, in which the men were very expert. Passing several well-recognized camps of his downward progress, and intervals which it had cost him days of hard labor to accomplish, they encamped after sunset, the 21st, on the rocky beach upon which Strain had slept the 16th of February, after having abandoned his raft in the morning.

The raft and paddies were still there, and one of the latter, which Strain made with a macheta, was secured as a memento by one of the English officers, and afterward proved useful when another was broken. The abundance of food, two fires, the bustle of many men, and the sound of many voices, was a pleasing contrast to the chilly, foodless, fireless nights which he had passed in the desert. Still there was a "plus ultra" which prevented enjoyment, and his silent exclamation was, "Oh that I could bring the remainder of the party to the same degree of comfort, and I should be content.

At ten o'clock next morning they arrived at No. 2 Hospital Camp of the main body, where, upon the cross over Holmes's grave, Mr. Avery found the letter from Mr. Truxton, informing Strain of his intentions to go back. Landing, Strain examined it critically, but could find no indications of disorganization or route. An old hat and pieces of cloth lay about, but there were two regular camps, with their respective fires, and evidences of an attempt at comfort. The camp of the men was nearest the water, while a path had been cut to the officers' camp, which was about forty feet distant. In the latter he discovered a tree that had served as a target for pistol-shooting, which convinced him that they were neither utterly dispirited or so short of ammunition as he and his party had been. Although the rude attempt to raise the evidence of Christian burial over one of the men who, in high health and spirits, had left the Atlantic coast, could not but produce the saddest reflections, yet he was already prepared for it, and left the camp with brighter anticipations, from the evidences of continued discipline and organization which he had observed. The native canoe-men at this point remonstrated against proceeding further up the river, but as he indignantly refused even to listen to their representations, they postponed the discussion for a future occasion.

Ascending rapidly, they arrived at the fallen tree which had barred Mr. Avery's upward progress; but, upon examination, it was found that, in falling, the roots had opened a narrow channel between it and the bank, through which the small canoes passed easily. The larger ones experienced more difficulty, but with a half hour's cutting of the bank all got safely through, and the ascent was rapidly continued. As the day declined obstacles became more numerous, and much skill and dexterity were displayed by the natives in passing under and over fallen trees which extended across the river, near the level of the water.

As they continued to ascend they saw small crosses along the banks, erected, according to previous arrangement, by the main party as they descended, to point out to Strain their progress when he should return with assistance. But the signs soon ceased, and although they passed numerous return camps, there was no symbol from which it could be inferred that they had the remotest hope of relief from below. Worn-out belts and cartouche boxes, found in camps on the river, showed that the party were dispensing with all unnecessary weight, while pieces of leather cut from the latter gave evidence that their boots and shoes were nearly worn out. Quills and feathers of the loathsome buzzard scattered along, revealed the character of food to which stern necessity had at last driven them. In the afternoon they arrived at the camp from whence Strain had taken leave of the party, and found that it had been revisited by them, the evidence of which was the remains of a fire and some cartouche boxes which had been discarded. About sunset they encamped on a sloping bank, and passed a night of torture, owing to the myriads of mosquitoes which infested the camp.

This was a sad night for Strain. From the examination of to-day's camp it was evident his command had given him up for lost, and commenced the desperate undertaking of finding their way back to the Atlantic shore. The prospect now grew painfully alarming. Strain could not sleep, but agitated, anxious, and feverish, sat up all night fanning himself. The noble-hearted Bennett kept him company nearly the whole night, and cheered him with promise of assistance to the last. He told him that a fearful and trying day was before him on the morrow—alluding to the revelations which the camps of the men would make. He requested