about six months old; his eyelids were black with kohl. I asked why kohl was used for a child so young. "It will strengthen the sight of his eyes, and make the lashes long and thick," said the elder woman.
I took leave of them, and found my kawass just outside the house waiting to take me to meet my brother at the Greek church. It is a modern building; silk hangings and gaudy pictures decorate the walls. The font is of marble; I think it is formed of an ancient Byzantine capital, hollowed out at the top. In a school adjoining the church a number of boys were noisily but monotonously intoning psalms, echoing the nasal twang of their teacher. I find that the Psalter is the chief class-book in Christian Arab schools, as the Koran is in Moslem schools. I have often seen boys with these books in their hands, who appear to be reading freely, when in reality they scarcely know their letters, but who repeat, parrot-like, large portions of them by heart.
We afterward went to the Jewish synagogue, where the chief rabbi received us. He showed me several copies of the Law and the Prophets, wrapped in crimson silk cases which are kept in a recess behind an embroidered curtain, or vail. In the middle of the building there was a high circular wooden platform, with seats of honor upon it. It was built so slightly that at first I thought it was only a temporary erection; but I found in all the synagogues which I visited raised central seats of equally slight construction.
The gentlemen then went for a ride. I declined doing so, hoping during their absence to see the women again; and Khawadja Stephani, at my request, sent his wife and children to me. They took me to see the lower part of the house; it was ill-arranged, untidy, and uncomfortable. They returned with me to my room. I made a few sketches, which amused them greatly. Soon such crowds of women came in that one of the men-servants of the house, who stood as guard or sentinel at my door, entered, and very
