as the mounted patrols of the hills and plains of Galilee; for it is their duty to keep the roads clear that people may travel in safety. To a considerable extent they succeed; and, thanks to their energy, highway robbery and murders are rare; but they can not of course keep all the wanderers out of the country. Over some tribes Akîel Agha has great influence, but with the Kurds and other hostile hordes he sometimes comes into collision, and warfare ensues, and then all the tribes friendly or in alliance with him naturally come to his assistance. Notwithstanding these outbreaks, it is certain that without the Agha's somewhat irregular guard affairs in the Pashalic of 'Akka would be very much worse, and traveling would be attended with more danger.
Akîel Agha’s regiment is a motley crew, formed of desperate men from all parts of the country, reminding one of the four hundred over whom David made himself a captain—1 Samuel xxii, 2. They are distinguished by the name of "Hawara," and are, in fact, a tolerated tribe of marauders, empowered by the Government to keep other tribes in check.
Salihh Agha told me that he had served on the Danube for a short time during the previous year, but he did not like to be so far away from his children. His tents were now pitched at Abilene, about three miles from Shefa ’Amer. He sent his lieutenant to fetch his youngest son for me to see, though it was a dark night and long past sunset. Supper was announced, and we were conducted to another room. Water was poured over our hands as we entered; then we, seven in number, sat on the matted floor, round a circular tray, raised about six inches from the ground, and literally crowded with food. A very long, narrow towel was placed in front of the guests, and reached all round, resting on our knees, and its fringed ends met and crossed where I was invited to take my seat. There were six round dishes of heaped-up rice, boiled in butter; six dishes of boiled wheat, mixed with minced meat and
