CHAPTER IX.
FROM HÂIFA TO ARRABEH.
After a few hours of perfect rest, I rose before the sun, on Monday, the 25th of February. Katrîne, who had begged to accompany us, had packed up her bundle of clothes, and was rejoicing at the thought of spending the Festival of Easter at Jerusalem, for she was an earnest devotee. She had newly dressed her eyes with kohl for the occasion. I told her of the difficulties of the journey. She assured me that she had no fear, for she had made a pilgrimage to the Chapel of the Madonna on Mount Carmel, and wore round her neck a potent charm, which she had obtained there, believing it would preserve her from all danger.
It was a scapulary, that is, a rudely-printed picture of the Virgin and Child, on a piece of linen, one or two inches square, said to be a portion of the smock which the blessed Virgin left on Mount Carmel when she graciously appeared in a vision to one of the monks of old. This smock must have been a very large one, for it furnishes an unlimited number of scapularies, which are sold by thousands to pilgrims from all parts of Europe. All the native Christians of Hâifa wear them, and most of the Europeans do also. I only know two or three exceptions. Some scapularies are enshrined in crystal lockets, or adorned with spangles and beads. Others are simply bound or lined with silk, or embroidered at the edges. Once, when I was ill, poor Katrîne put one secretly round my neck while I slept; and now, in preparation for the journey, she tried to induce me to avail myself of its protection.
The court was crowded with well-wishers, who came to say, "God be with you," and to express their regrets at
