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250
DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE.

scarcely breathe. A large open brazier, filled with glowing charcoal, stood near the door, and the air and every thing in the place seemed to be impregnated with an oppressive odor of musk. Even the coffee and the fumes of the narghilé were strongly flavored with it. I was very glad to be in the fresh air again on the starlit terrace.

When we went back into the large room, I found that it had been nicely swept. In one corner, five mattresses were placed, one on the top of the other, with a red silk pillow, and a silk embroidered wadded quilt, lined with calico, arranged nicely as a bed for me. I rejoiced inwardly, thinking that I was to have the room to myself. But very soon I was undeceived, for seven other beds were spread on the floor, each formed of a single mattress only, with a quilted coverlid and pillow. (If a Moslem wishes to pay great honor to a guest, several mattresses are piled up for him or her to sleep upon, and these gradations of respect are curiously observed. Five is rather a high figure, but I have known my brother to have seven spread for him.)

I found that all the ladies, and children, and servants, and slaves, were to sleep in the same room with me! Two narrow hammocks, each about a yard long, were taken from a recess, and, fastened to ropes, suspended from iron rings in the ceiling. The hammocks were oblong frames, made of the strong stems of palm fronds, with coarse canvas stretched over them. To these, two swaddled and screaming children were securely bound. Ropes, made of palm-fiber, were fastened to the corners, and united and plaited together, about one yard above, and then fixed to strong ropes hanging from the ceiling. The four corner ropes formed a tent-like frame-work to support a piece of muslin for a musketo curtain.

When I began to undress, the women watched me with curiosity, and when I put on my nightgown they were exceedingly astonished, and exclaimed, "Where are you going? What are you going to do?" and, "Why is your dress white?"