Page:Domestic Life in Palestine.pdf/268

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TO NABLÛS.
261

is about fifteen miles due south of Senûr. We were preceded by the soldiers. We rode for a little while in company with the Colonel, who told us that Kamîl Pasha had determined to destroy Senûr, and had offered a reward of thirty thousand piasters for the head of Ibrahîm Jerrar. When we reached the entrance to the narrow valley, our military escort took leave of us, and we soon lost sight of the soldiers. They galloped along one after the other recklessly, over rocks and brushwood, spurring their horses with the edges of their shovel-shaped stirrups.

These incidents, from the moment when "the young man who kept the watch" first perceived the horsemen issuing from the narrow valley, till they took leave of us, did not occupy half an hour, though it seemed a much longer space of time.

My brother explained to me that he had no real authority to interfere as he had done in this case. He acted not officially, but individually, feeling that principles of humanity, and our somewhat critical position, justified him. It was singular that we had been the well received guests of the heads of the two great rival factions of the district, within a few hours, and had thus gained much important information.

Hills and valleys, rain and sunshine, checkered our way till, at about sunset, we reached the olive-groves of Nablûs. Although I was wet, and cold, and tired, all my energy and delight returned when the beautiful valley between Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim, and the well-built town of Nablûs were in sight, with glimpses of the distant sea, where the sun was going down. I was surprised to see a quantity of mistletoe on the olive-trees. The great gates, which were on the point of being closed, were thrown back for us, and we rode through dark arcades and narrow streets to the house of Ody Azam, the British Consul's agent. There we were comfortably entertained, for our host, who could speak a little English, was accustomed to receive European travelers. His house, indeed, was a kind