sherbet, coffee, and a narghilé, he opened the door at the base of the minaret, and we groped our way up the winding stairs to the top, and then stood in the balcony, silent with delight at the wonderful prospect which presented itself. Looking eastward over the wilderness of bossy hills, we saw a large expanse of the Dead Sea, with the Moab Mountains beyond, stretching far away north and south. The sun shone magnificently, shedding a halo of glory on every object. In the foreground of the view a wely, or dome, stood on a rounded hill, which was covered with olive and fig trees. This is called the Dome of the Witnesses. Beyond this, there was no sign of life—all was desolate. But, looking westward, we could see Jerusalem stretched out like a map beneath us, and there were evidences of human skill and industry on almost all the hills.
While we were there, the Cancellière of the French Consulate and M. Gilbert joined us. The latter said that Kamîl Pasha had been to the castle to call on us, and, hearing where we were, had followed us. So we went down on to the terrace to meet him.
Our host asked me, in a low voice, if I would visit his harem, as his wives had expressed a wish to see me. With my brother's permission, I went. The old man led me through a court, and up on to a terraced roof, where an elderly woman, the wife of his youth, awaited me. He went away, and she said, "Welcome, O my daughter; we have heard of you, and have been longing to see you and speak with you." She took me into a little garden on the house-top, and two handsome women, with features of Egyptian character, came forward to greet me. They wondered that I ventured to remain in the lonely castle on the hill, and said, "We dare not live there. God has given courage to English girls." I then inquired how many English girls they had known. "We know you, and we have known one other only. She was a girl who lived in the castle for a long time with her father." I found that they referred to the daughter of Mr. Barclay, the
