I was surprised at the severity of the cold in Jerusalem. Twice I saw the city shrouded with snow, but the sun soon melted it away, leaving only white, fleecy wreaths on the northern sides of the domes and cupolas. There were a great many new buildings in course of erection outside the city. Large plots of land had been purchased by Russia,[1] France, and Austria, and foreign schools, hospices, and other institutions were being established.
Our friend, Kamil Pasha, was no longer there. Surreya Pasha had succeeded him. He was a man of an entirely different character. He had not so much sympathy with the Europeans. He was a strict Moslem, and kept the mosque and all the holy places religiously closed against unbelievers, and fostered a spirit of fanaticism. It was acknowledged, however, that he was in many respects a clever ruler, and an energetic and vigilant disciplinarian. It was said that he never took bribes, but caused the taxes to be regularly enforced. They had been neglected by some of his predecessors, on the principle that it is easier to take bribes than to collect taxes.
To facilitate the taxation of the citizens of Jerusalem, he had caused all the houses to be numbered, and large Arabic numerals now appeared on the doors. There was no division into streets or quarters, as in European cities, but the figures, commencing with units, rose up to hundreds, till every dwelling, however obscure, had its especial mark. Then a careful record was made of the names of the owners
- ↑ "Masons and builders are busy on the Meidan—the plain on the north side of Jerusalem. A portion of it, belonging to Russia, containing 16,000 square yards, has been inclosed by a stone wall. Several houses have been built there, and four large tanks constructed for the supply of water.
"A cathedral, dedicated to the 'Holy Trinity,' has sprung up as if by magic, and is now ready to receive its cupolas. A large house for the Russian Ecclesiastical Mission is nearly completed. A hospital to receive ten beds has reached the first floor; the next story will be finished during this year. Foundations are laid for an asylum capable of receiving 300 male pilgrims.
"Inside the city, the ground belonging to Russia, near to the Holy Sepulcher, has been cleared of the rubbish which formerly covered it to the hight of 35 feet. During the excavations, pillars and porticoes of the time of Constantine were discovered. Before the end of this year an asylum for Russian female pilgrims will be commenced."—Jerusalem, August, 1862.
