Page:Domestic Life in Palestine.pdf/45

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DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE.

Mount of Olives, "which is before Jerusalem on the east," says Zechariah, is separated by slight depressions into three distinct parts. On the central and highest point a white walled Moslem village stands, with olive and mulberry trees clustering round it. Near the summit of the northern hill, a little isolated square stone tower is conspicuous, and when Mr. G. pointed it out, he invited me to pay him a visit there, for it was his Summer retreat, and was commonly called "Graham Castle," by Europeans in Jerusalem.

We descended into a long, narrow, stony valley; but the view from the hill-top we were leaving was already photographed on my brain, and I have never lost the impression. Though I have seen Jerusalem under more beautiful aspects, and from more favorable points of view, the first sight had its peculiar charm.

We left the Yâfa road, and made our way toward the Talibîweh, where Mr. Finn, the English Consul, encamps in Summer time. It is about a mile west of the city. We rapidly approached a low, rough stone wall, inclosing a large tract of partially-cultivated land, on a gradually-sloping hill, looking toward Jerusalem. On the highest part of the ground a small square stone building stood, with seven or eight tents pitched near to it, among rocks, young trees, and shrubs. This I found was the consular encampment, and gladly I dismounted there, at four o'clock, P.M., welcomed by the Consul and his family.

The stone house consists simply of one lofty double vaulted chamber, which serves for dining and general sitting-room, with veranda-sheltered seats outside it, looking toward the east. An arched recess—or lewan, as it is called in Arabic and Turkish-looks toward the west, and consequently is in shade in the morning. Kitchens and offices occupy the third and fourth sides. It was built by Jewish laborers, of a red and yellowish stone, from a quarry on the estate, and is not plastered either inside or out.

Mrs. Finn led me across a rough path, among little patches of newly-cultivated red earth, where melons, cu-