stained hair about once a week only, and occasionally clean it with fuller's earth, which is found near, and use small tooth combs of bone or wood.
After some delay animals were procured; fortunately we had our saddles with us. We left our heavy luggage in the care of the Reis, and at two, P.M., we mounted and took leave of Tantûra. We made a rather ludicrous procession. The kawass, on a shaggy mule, took charge of our carpet-bags, and led the way. The two monks were mounted on donkeys, so small that their sandaled feet and heavy robes nearly touched the ground. My brother rode on an old white horse, whose head was garnished with red trappings ornamented with shells. I was put on a little pony who had lost his mane and tail, and who could not understand a side-saddle, but persisted in turning round and round to investigate the mystery; and Katrîne, on a stubborn donkey, had great difficulty in keeping up with us.
We rode northward along the shore, which was strewed with blocks of marble and hewn stones. Women and children were busy collecting in large baskets the coarse incrusted salt, which settles in the natural hollows and artificial basins of the rocks on the beach below. Large herds of cattle and goats, the chief wealth of Tantûra, grazed on the plain on our right hand just above us,which was overgrown with thorns, thistles, dwarf mimosa, and low brushwood.
A little beyond Tantûra stands the ancient Dora, or Dor, on a rugged promontory, with ruined walls all round it, at the edge of the cliff. From its center rises what appeared to me at first to be a lofty tower or castle; but on approaching it I found it was only the narrow southern wall of some long since fallen building. It stands about thirty feet high. This place is now quite abandoned, as the walls are tottering and the cliffs are giving way. The stones are gradually being removed to build up Tantûra. Opposite to these ruins, the plain was concealed from us by a low
