192 EARLY REMINISCENCES Franklyn from Exeter, and with the muslin blind of my bedroom window drawn back, Bayonne looks greatly like Exeter, the mighty cathedral forming a sort of centre-piece or presiding genius, and I never approach the window that I am not struck with the general resemblance—it is of course only in effect, and will not bear minute and very particular comparison. " We have fallen in more than once with the Mastermans since we left Pau, and find them most kindly people. He is a quiet, thoughtful, reading man, so retiring that Edward scarcely did more than know him by name last winter, but finds a ready help in him in all his favourite plans for subsoil-planting, draining-machines, and sawing-mills, which have occupied Edward's mind and attention all the summer ; making plans and drawings are his morning and evening occupation. Mr. Masterman knows a good deal about mechanics, and I am sorry Edward loses his referee by his return to Pau." I break off my mother's letter here to mention that previous to our settling into Chateau St. Aulaire at Bayonne, we went for a fortnight or three weeks to Biarritz, not then a great resort. We had our carriage and pair and could drive there, but the usual manner of going to Biarritz from Bayonne was on horseback, and, as it was called, en Cacolet. A pair of large paniers, or else two half-chairs, yoked together were slung over a horse's back, each with a seat in or on it. The owner or driver of the horse sat in one of the baskets, or on one of the stools, and he or she who had engaged for a ride occupied the other. A great difficulty existed in the mounting and occupation of the seat. Each occupant, or rather would-be occupant, had to leap into his or her panier at the same moment, or else round went the yoke that connected them, and he or she was promptly lodged on the ground. There was another risk to be encountered. If those who desired to ride leaped too vigorously they knocked temples as they reached the back of the horse. My father made a water-colour drawing of a pair on their stools. The driver was almost invariably a woman, sometimes elderly, but more generally young and buxom. The horse with its paniers stood for hire at the Porte d'Espagne, where its conductress, lounging upon the side, her hand on the crupper, invited customers at the top of her voice, " U cacoulet, Moussu ? " A bargain was concluded after
