Page:Early Reminiscences.djvu/71

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1842
43

or passed into the hands of many different masters. Till 1802 it still belonged to an independent spiritual prince of the Empire, who, in that year resigned, and the country was given to the Archduke Ferdinand as a compensation for the duchy of Tuscany which he had lost. The Archduke reigned there till 1805, when Salzburg became a portion of Austria, and continued to be so till 1809. Then a provisional French Government was established there. In 1810 the country was incorporated with Bavaria, and in 1815 was restored to Austria."[1]

A peculiarity of usage in the ancient principality of Salzburg is that there, and I believe there only on the Continent, does the driver go to the left when meeting another carriage or a cart, observing the old rule:

"If you go to the left you are sure to go right,
 If you go to the right, you go wrong."

The golden time of Salzburg was during the reign of the spiritual princes; but was so only for the Catholics. Those who embraced Protestant principles, whatever they were, had the door opened to them, and they were ordered to walk out of the territory.

We remained at Salzburg to August 20th, 1842.

Whilst there, occurred the reception of the Archbishop on his return from Rome where he had been created a Cardinal.

This was Frederic Joseph Coelestine von Schwarzenberg. This prince was the nephew of the general of that name who was killed at the battle of Leipzig, and the son of the unfortunate princess who was burned at the entertainment given to Napoleon at Paris, when unhappily the building caught fire.[2] The Cardinal Archbishop was young and handsome, aged thirty-two, very popular in Salzburg, and said to keep a strict eye on the clergy of his diocese.

The spectacle was grand, but the music merely orchestral with a thin and poor choir; and this in a place where every one sings, loves to sing, and it is rare to find man, woman or child without

  1. Kohl (J.G.), Austria, 1843.
  2. This took place on 1 July, 1810. A full and interesting account of it is given in Varnhagen V. Ense's Memoirs. An English translation by Sir A. Duff-Gordon was published under the title of Scenes from the War of Liberation in Germany, 1847.