Page:Early Reminiscences.djvu/75

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1842
47

by sitting under the eaves of the house singing together; and it is surprising to hear how correct is their time and how melodious the concert of these little uneducated singers. But music as a science is not much studied; though many are perfect musical performers, there is very little knowledge of musical notation."

The Salzkammer Gut is a valuable possession of Austria, as in its rocks are extensive deposits of rock-salt among the limestone mountains. The mines are under the administration of the exchequer (Kammer). The annual net revenue which Austria derives from her salt mines is estimated at £2,200,000. The salt deposits extend over an area of 249 English square miles. My father, mother and I descended into a salt mine at Hallein, entering near the summit of a mountain, and coming out near its base. The district is admirable for its noble snowy mountains and glaciers, and its many lakes, the most beautiful perhaps of which is that of Hallstadt. We made excursions to Ischl, Gmünden and Hallstadt, at which latter we stayed a couple of days. The lake is 5 miles long, 1¼ mile broad, and in places 100 fathoms deep. The village of Hallstadt is plastered against the rocks. From a distance the houses appear attached to the cliff like swallows' nests. In the parish church is one of the most beautiful and elaborate carved and gilt altar-pieces in Austria. The population are well off, numbering 1800, of whom about 900 are Protestants. At the head of the lake appears the mighty Dachstein with its glaciers streaming down from it. Opening out of the lake basin is a little lateral valley which from prehistoric times was the residence of a people busily engaged in the salt-works, and, judging from their graves, were in good circumstances. Already when we were at Hallstadt there was some talk of occasional finds of bronze weapons and ornaments, and we were shown some. But my father was not interested in antiquities. It was not until 1846 that a systematic exploration of the graves was made and was carried on to 1864, during which time a thousand graves had been opened and the finds were some of the most considerable made in Europe, and have given a name to a special kind of sword and ornament. At Hallstadt, as in the old Italian and North Etruscan burial-places, incineration and carnal interment were carried out simultaneously. Out of 993 graves 455 contained burnt bones, 13 contained bodies