brown cashmere, edged with velvet; white linen apron; chatelaine at side, with keys and satchel; close-fitting bodice, with shoulder cape and revers, edged with gold galon linen; chemisette, and linen cuffs to tight sleeves; black velvet cap, with hair hidden. 15th century: Figured stuff and brocades over hoop; stiff straight square bodices, all round gathered basqued; white chemisette, and close plaited ruff at throat; sleeves with epaulettes to match dress; gauntlet gloves, high pointed felt hat. The caps have often two large round gilt plates connected with semi-circle of wire which goes round the back of the head, and keeps the lace in order.
DUTCH SERVANT. Short chintz skirt, blue serge bodice, with all-round full basque, red kerchief tied over the neck and tucked into front; large muslin lace edge apron; lace cap, silver side ornaments; plain black dress, high bodice, large white tippet, huge turn-back linen cuffs; apron and cap, guiltless of trimming; keys at side.
EARLY ENGLISH. This is generally rendered by a flowing skirt; plain heart-shaped bodice, with revers; tight sleeves, puffed at elbow, slashed at shoulder; pointed head-dress and veil hanging from it. Old English is supposed to be represented by the period of Edward IV.: A short scanty skirt, with one gathered flounce; low baby bodice, short waisted; one puff to short sleeves; large muslin mob cap or straw flap hat; reticule on arm, and long gloves.
EARTH. MOTHER EARTH. White satin short skirt with rows of black velvet; red satin tunic, black velvet bodice, laced stomacher, short sleeves; gilt basket on head, with flowers, fruits, and bulbs; ferns, grass, and fruit about dress; a small globe hung at side. Or a green dress wreathed with flowers, fruit, and ferns; basket and flowers in hair.
EASTERN QUEEN. Trousers of gold-striped soft silk, gathered at the ankles; tunic of white silk and gold broche, bordered with gold fringe; scarf tied at the side, of Oriental gauze, striped with several bright colours; loose full bodice made of soft white silk falling to the hips, and confined at the waist by a red silk scarf, powdered with sequins; red silk epaulets, red silk handerchief about head with sequins. (See Oriental.)
ECAILLÈRE (viz., Oyster-woman). Close-fitting, half-
