of costly fur by any but noble ladies or their attendants. This period includes the reigns of Edward II. III., Richard II., Henry II. It was a time when very extravagant materials were employed. The spencer or jacket bodice was bordered with fur, having sleeves to wrist, and often long pendent ones over these. The Cote-Hardie was also worn. Parti-coloured dresses were adopted; and the sideless garment faced with fur; long streamers from the elbow. The reticulated head-dress towards the latter part of the century showed the hair gathered in a caul at side, a veil at back.
FRANCE. Short white satin dress with stripes of red, white, and blue, emblazoned with arms in gold; low bodice draped to correspond, gold filigree eagle on the shoulders, and in the hair with bows of red, white, and blue; square fan covered with red, white, and blue. Or, white satin dress, the skirt trimmed with three rouleaux of colour, interlaced with gold cord, two satin pockets in front, with two tricolours escaping from them, festooned at the side, and joined to two sash-ends of tricolour at the back; long satin bodice of pale grey, trimmed with gold; scarlet satin cap; shoes; white stockings with red clocks.
FRANCIS I. (Time of), costume worn by Duchess of Leinster at Marlborough House Fancy Ball. Green satin petticoat, with three rows of gold embroidery; gown of scarlet, opening in front, jewelled on either side, the whole covered with gold embroidery; close-fitting low square pointed bodice, jewelled girdle and pendant; rows of jewels at top of bodice; full slashed and puffed sleeve to wrist, of white and green; open hanging sleeves of red satin, lined with sable, fastened with jewelled clasps at elbow, lace ruffles; head-dress, a coronet of jewels. At this time very handsome stuffs were worn; it is identical with the Tudor period in England.
FRANCIS II. (1559-1560.) Is identical with the Medicis period. A grande dame of the court would wear an under-skirt and sleeves of white satin, embroidered at the feet; bodice and skirt of blue velvet richly embroidered down the sides; the square bodice pointed at the waist; outlined with jewelled band and festooned with jewels; wired lace ruff from shoulders; sleeves one puff to elbow, white satin slashed with blue; three puffs to wrist; Marie Stuart jewelled coif, jewelled
