high at the back, and square in front, with either a falling collar of lace, or a ruff supported on wire; the hair is not powdered. The following is a good rendering: Grey silk skirt, with flounces; cardinal tunic, trimmed with white lace, and caught up at side; round bodice of grey silk; stomacher of gold; tight sleeves, with epaulettes; grey paniers and rich cardinal sash; muslin and lace fichu, and boa round the throat, the ends fastened at back; large white hat, trimmed with cardinal satin and three white ostrich feathers, the whole costume trimmed with gold.
LOUIS XIV. (1643-17 15). In this reign ladies wore the hair powdered over high cushions; hoops were in fashion, and sacques; also patches, and very long gloves. The following is the usual style for fancy balls: Satin petticoat, plain or quilted with pearls, or with rows of lace across headed by tulle puffings and roses; a velvet, brocade, or satin train rounded in front, coming from the waist or en sacque (see Watteau), trimmed with lace, headed by ruchings and pearls, carried up the sides, and bodice which should be cut as a low square; the stomacher pointed, with rows of ribbon across, a bow in the centre; the sleeves to the elbow, with ruffles; pearls and flowers on the powdered hair. A lady's hunting dress of this reign is made with a plain skirt, a very deep satin waistcoat with square pockets, and a longer basqued jacket with mousquetaire cufls and ruffles; a lace tie and frill at the throat and a three-cornered hat over powdered hair. Laitiere de Bagnolet. Blue short skirt embroidered round the edge; yellow bunched-up upper skirt; red pointed, low, square-cut bodice, bordered with gold, over white under-bodice; sleeves with turn-back cuff at wrist; white cap with a red and yellow handkerchief tied over it. Marquise. A red plush coat, with silver buttons and braid, showing a vest of cream satin; a cream satin dress; a cloak of red plush, lined with cream satin, fastened to the shoulders with silver cord and tassels; three-cornered hat of red plush, with cream feathers and silver cord on the powdered hair; riding gloves with gauntlets, and a riding whip. Peasant. Short cream dress of cashmere, embroidered with roses; moss green apron, and white fichu crossed on the bust. (See also Plate XIV., Fig. 56.)
LOUIS XV. (1715-1774). A similar dress to that described in Louis XIV.'s time is worn. The following are
