84 ON THE CASPIAN TO PERSIA
The rough sea that came up as the sun went down was ominous, and the stormy night proved to be the forerunner of a difl&cult landing next morning at Anzali (also spelled Enzeli), the port of northern Persia for Teheran. It some- times happens that the waves are so high that the steamer cannot cross the dangerous bar near Anzali, but must return to Baku, thus losing a week, or else must wait for favorable weather to allow her to reach the pier. On this particular occasion we were obliged to anchor outside the roadstead, amid high waves, and to make the difficult transfer to a Persian scow that came tossing alongside and conveyed us to a steam launch which plungingly carried us over the shallow bar and brought the ship's passengers safely into the quiet haven. A summer- palace of the Shah stands on the shore among large gardens, occupied by soldiery when last I saw it, and surrounded by official buildings and the custom-house; but, beyond being a port town, Anzali has little of interest to offer to the visitor.
The formalities of a Persian custom-house seem child's play to one familiar with the official examinations on the pier in New York; we were quickly ' passed ' and were soon pro- ceeding by boat, a huge yawl rowed by six Persians, across the bay of Murdab, or ' Deadwater,' into the lagoons that lead up to Piri Bazar and Rasht.^
This is the more picturesque way of going, as the banks of the creek for several miles are lined with tropical vegetation, past which the rude craft smoothly glides ; while the dull chant of the rowers, marking rhythmic time to the dip of their oars, or their voices calling in strange cries to the coolie that pulls the tow-line on the bank whenever a difficult bend of the river must be rounded, give a touch of music that is answered by the sharp whir of some water bird, startled into flight by the boat's approach. An easier way to make the journey to Rasht is by carriage along the now well-constructed road direct from Anzali. Convolvuli, or morning-glories (the Persians also have the
1 1 have spoken of Piri Bazar and Rasht in Persia Past and Present^ p. 445.
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