At times one half of a party separated by the roads are some distance in advance, and then the shouts of the muleteers calling one to another, or to their mules, and the answering whistle of the stragglers in the rear as they wind down or ascend the different glens, now appearing and then as suddenly concealed by the intervening trees, render the scene singularly picturesque. A few wandering Indians conveying parcels from Gualan to Yzabal or loaded with maize, are the only human beings to be seen till about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, by which time in favourable months the mountain is generally passed, and the traveller arrives at a small Indian town called Mico, another depot for goods.
During four months in the year it is however almost impassable, and the journey far from being agreeable is one of the most difficult and painful that can he experienced. In many instances travellers are obliged to pass the night on its summit drenched hy the rains, and terrified by the proximity both of tigers and rattlesnakes.
After resting at Mico a short time, it is customary to ride forward about a league, to a solitary hut, where parties generally remain for the night on account of the superior forage for the mules. On alighting at this house we inquired for something to eat, but could get no other reply than “no hay” there is none. At length however after
