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Strangers' Quarters in Southern Mesopotamia
on the side facing the court, but they give ample protection against the prevailing storms. In the centre of the open court stands a kublah, which rests on four square pillars, and is supported by two groined arches that intersect at right angles.
In the western wall of the open court (see page 533) and in a direct line with the grand entrance-portal there is another, almost equally magnificent, portal, which gives access to a completely roofed annex. The roof was supported by a series of very lofty arches, above which rises a circular tower intended for purposes of ventilation. This great roofed annex was the stable, which was certainly comfortable both in the cold winter and in the hot summer. At any rate, thanks to the massive walls, I found the temperature of the stable cool and grateful on the 7th of July, the day I spent in measuring the mighty building. Perhaps both the stable and the stable doorway are the most splendid ever built. The huge ventilation-tower acted as a chimney, and would keep the air of the stable pure even when hundreds of animals were penned therein. The stable has absolutely no light except through the one door and ventilation-tower. An ugly hole has been made by the ruthless village barbarians in the rear end of the stable, which is now used as a sheepfold—perhaps the most magnificent one in existence.
The Seljuk sultans built many karwanserais at intervals along the great traderoutes all over their empire. Most of them are now in utter ruin, while others, especially those in Cappadocia about Cæsarea-Mazaca, may still be used. But none of them had such gigantic proportions nor such architectural beauty as Sultan Khan.
The modern city khan (a view of which is reproduced on page 531) is the pitiful descendant of the lordly karwanserai of former days. It retains the open court, and adds a second story. Good specimens may be seen in Kerbela, Damascus, Ushak, and elsewhere. In them the upper story is devoted to entirely unfurnished living-apartments, while the lower story is reserved for animals and the men who think it wise to stay by their stuff. Around the four interior sides of the second story runs a roofed gallery, from which doors lead to each sleeping-apartment. The dead exterior walls and windowless sleeping-rooms still tell of a state of society in which no one feels secure against robbery in some shape or
