CHAPTER XX.
Camp on Zen. a river — Scenery — Falling rocks — Tukcham mountain — Height of glaciers — Botany — Gigantic rlmbarb — Insects — Storm — Temperature of rivers — Behaviour of Lachen Phipun — Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas — View from mountains above camp — Descend to Zemu Samdong — Vegetation — Letters from Dorjiling — Arrival of Singtam Soubah — Presents from Rajah — Parties collecting arum-roots — Insects — Ascend Lachen river — Thakya-zong — Tallum Samdong village — Cottages— Mountains— Plants — Entomology — Weather — Halo — Diseases — Conduct of Singtam Soubah — -His character and illness — Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama — Tungu — Appearance of country — Houses — Poisoning by arum-roots — Yaks and calves — Tibet ponies — Journey to Kongra Lama — Tibetan tents — -Butter, curds, and churns — Hospitality — Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo — Magnificent scenery — Reach Kongra Lama pass .......... 56
CHAPTER XXI.
Top of Kongra Lama — Tibet frontier — Elevation — View — -Vegetation — Descent to Tungu — Tungu-choo — Ponies — Kinchinjhow and Chango-khang mountains — Palung plains — Tibetans — Dogs— Dingcham province of Tibet — Inhabitants — Dresses — Women's ornaments — Blackening faces — Coral — Tents — Elevation of Palung — Lama — Shawl-wool goats — Shearing — Siberian plants — Height of glaciers, and perpetual snow — Geology — Plants, and wild animals — Marmots — Insects — Birds — Choongtam Lama — Religious exercises — Tibetan hospitality — Delphinium — Perpetual snow — Temperature at Tungu — Return to Tallum Samdong — To Lamteng — Houses — Fall of barometer — Cicadas — Lime deposit — Landslips— Arrival at Choongtam — Cobra — Rageu — Heat of climate — Velocity and volume of rivers measured — Leave for Lachoong valley — Keadom — General features of valley — Lachoong village — Tunkra mountain — Moraines — Cultivation — Lachoong Phipun — Lama ceremonies beside a sick-bed ......... 80
CHAPTER XXII.
Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass — Moraines and their vegetation — Pines of great dimensions — Wild currants — Glaciers — Summit of pass— Elevation — Views — Plants — Winds — Choombi district — Lacheepia rock — Extreme cold — Kinchinjunga — -Himalayan grouse — Meteorological observations — Return to Lachoong — Oaks — Ascend to Yeumtong — Flats and debacles — Buried pine- trunks — Perpetual snow — Hot springs — Behaviour of Singtam Soubah — Leave for Momay Samdong — Upper limit of trees — Distribution of plants — Glacial terraces, &c. — Forked Donkia — Moutonneed rocks — Ascent to Donkia pass — Vegetation — Scenery — Lakes — Tibet — Bhomtso — Arun river — Kiang-lah mountains — Yaru-Tsampu river — Appearance of Tibet — Kam-
