Page:History of West Australia.djvu/106

From Wikisource
Jump to navigation Jump to search
This page has been validated.
80
WEST AUSTRALIA


with Nakina as interpreter they asked many questions of the country round about and the ranges for which they were making. One native named Armie consented to guide them to their destination. He conducted them to the western base of Toodyeverup, where was a deep channel with pools of brackish water. There the party camped.

Soon after daylight on the following morning Dale, Clint, Nakina and Armie set out to ascend Toodyeverup. At its base was a small spring of excellent water where they were able to slake their thirst—an agreeable change after the brackish liquid they had been compelled to drink. Then they went up the mountain, climbing from crag to crag, until they reached its summit. Dale reckoned the elevation to be about 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. The ascent proved so steep and difficult that even Nakina and Armie could not accomplish it, and they stopped half-way up. Dale pushed on though he hoped for little from the view because of clouds which enveloped its apex. Just as he gained the top the clouds cleared away, but the panoramic view disclosed was disappointing. Though the area presented was large no object of importance was discerned; the principal feature was the dead-level appearance of the low lands. The surface of the immense plain to the north and east-south-east was diversified with open downs and extensive forests, whereon were numbers of bright bare spots which were supposed to be salt lakes. Towards the sea coast the country was mountainous, but as smoke rose from several native fires in that direction, the view obtained was obscure. He took angles and bearings of his position and descried Mount Hallowell, Talyuberlup, Mount Manypeak, the east hummock of Porrong-u-rup, Baldhead, Mount Gardener, Mount Barker, Yakkerlip, Mount Lindsay, and a peak of Koikyennuruff.

A start homewards was made on the 9th, and after a fatiguing day's journey the explorers reached a lagoon at the northern base of Porrong-u-rup. Two miles beyond they passed through a gorge in the range, and in descending the southern side were gratified to discover a rich tract of land covered with verdant grasses and trees of gigantic growth. This valley resembled those at Mount Bakewell, and was watered by a spring of delicious water. On the 27th they returned to Albany. A limited area of fertile soil was discovered by Dale, but he did not obtain specimens of the kuik and quannet seeds. The White Cockatoo natives were cross-examined, but their replies were vague and could not be relied on.

Dr. Collie made another excursion from King George's Sound in 1832. Leaving Albany on February 9, he crossed King River at the usual native wading place, and then with his party went over to the Kalgan River. He inspected the country north-east and west of the river, elaborating much of the information gained in the previous year. Some fine soil with excellent pasture was discovered here and there. He went near the Koikyennuruff Range of mountains, and had Porrong-u-rup as one of his most conspicuous landmarks. The Kalgan was more thoroughly examined than on his previous excursion, but taking the country as a whole, little of general interest was observed, and on the 12th February Albany was reached.

With indefatigable energy Collie continued to go out into the surrounding country, but the only other expedition of any note was that made in four days and a half at the end of May and beginning of June. He went 65 miles north by east of Albany, and passed on the south and west side of Mount Barker. The country inspected held out in his opinion special facilities for overland communication with Swan River. Abundantly grassed valleys and hills were traversed, which were fed by ample springs of water. In one meadow he found a bullock in high condition feeding; he was well satisfied with the country he inspected near Mount Barker.

The local Government was supplied with useful information of the south-west coast and the inland country by Mr. J. C. Bussell. During 1832 that gentleman made several excursions. On the McLeod Creek he found some promising country. After traversing sandy land he came upon rising ground containing rich red loam and pleasing verdure. He went to high hills near Cape Leeuwin, through shrubby country and bush so dense that the ground was covered with moss. He inspected a remarkable "white patch," composed of limestone, sand, sea shells, and decomposed rocks, which, observed from a distance, glinted in the bright sunlight. Above the surface of this peculiar vista, were what Mr. Bussell termed "strong excrescences resembling the stems of shrubs, sometimes very slender, sometimes as large as the timber of a large tree; one might imagine with the poet that Nature had first given birth to a thicket, then framed a shell when the work was done, and changed the hazel wainds to stone." Upon closer examination they appeared to be the harder parts of rock which resisted the action of the atmosphere; probably zoophytes, embedded in a more friable matrix, which had disappeared from around them. After many labours in inspecting occasional good country he returned to his home at Augusta.

Later on he went on an expedition to the River Vasse. He encountered some good land on the way, but when nearing the river the country improved rapidly. The ground was there covered with a vivid green, succulent grass; was smooth and regular, and unsullied with burnt sticks or blackened grass trees. It was spring-time, and the meadows were ornamented with brilliant and varied wild flowers. The daisy, buttercup, and purple marigold commingled with bright scarlet blossoms, and presented a delightful confusion of rich tints. Mr. Bussell rhapsodises on the banks of the Vasse. In his journal he says, "Here was the spot that the creative fancy of a Greek would have peopled with dryad and naiad, and all the beautiful phantoms and wild imagery of his sylvan mythology: wide waving lawns were sloping down to the water's edge; trees thick and entangled were sloping over the banks. One in the centre of the rapids had taken root in the very rocks over which the water's tumbled; its bended trunks and tortuous roots seemed to indicate that it had struggled more than once to gain the perpendicular form from which it had been thrust by the rude torrents." He described the soil as "always good." Three natives hailed him from the other side of the river, and then waded across. Bussell had much communication with them, and took the trouble to institute comparisons in their language. The splendid fields of grass waved like corn to the breeze. Finally, his party made its way back to Augusta, over meadows and hills decked with wild flowers and amply supplied with game.