Page:History of West Australia.djvu/23

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WEST AUSTRALIA.
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probably from some wrecked vessel, but bearing no distinctive signs of the Ridderschap van Hollandt. The island was mainly composed of white rocky sand, and upon it he saw several sorts of herbs, also rats, and a variety of trees. He went up into the island, amid the primal silence of the stunted trees, and came upon "several basins of excellent water, but brackish, and six or seven paces further a fountain of excellent water, fit to drink." The appellation "Rottnest" was awarded to the island because of the number of "rats" (wallabies) nests they found on it. From the rising ground the party described to the east the mainland of New Holland, and they knew that natives were there because of the smoke which daily rose from amid the woods. On the 4th January, 1697, a boat went over to the mainland, and on the 5th other boats put off, containing 86 fully armed strong men. Among the first sights they observed was a native hut, "of a worse description than those of the Hottentots." That day the Swan River, on whose banks the thriving cities of Perth and Fremantle are now established, was discovered, but they then considered it to be a series of salt lakes. They looked about them all day long but saw no natives, merely their foot-prints on the banks of the river. When night came they determined to sleep on shore, and finding a native fire still burning they camped by it. Next day the men divided into three companies, and explored in different directions, one north, another east, the third south. They were hidden by the woods in their curious exploitation, and at night they again met without having discovered anything worthy of note. On the 7th some of the party who had eaten fruits and nuts found on bushes in the silent forest, began to vomit so severely that all were afraid they were poisoned. They now went on board. But they had determined that the salt lakes were a large inland river, which rose and fell with the tide and they saw upon its surface a surpassingly strange sight in that rarity of Nature, black swans, young ones of which they caught and took on board with them. The vessels were sailed on the following day closer to the mainland, and on the 10th De Vlaming, with three boats full of men, supplied with guns and ammunition, rowed over the mouth of the river to view the country along its course. This river up to that time was certainly the most encouraging feature discovered in Terra Australis. They did not go far that day, but made a longer excursion on the 11th, when the recorder tells us that the swans were so numerous that "our boats knocked over nine or ten." Not yet were they able to meet the shy, retiring natives; but they saw parroquets, cockatoos, rotganzen, geese, and divers, and no doubt were pleased when they "also heard the song of the nightingale." The river was named the Black Swan (Zwaanen) River, and besides catching there several of these rare birds, and taking two of them to Batavia, they secured fish from its depths, particularly smelts. After subsequently taking soundings in the locality of their anchorage, and recording that they saw no good country thereabouts, on the 15th they sailed northwards. At different places along the coast they anchored and went inland to see what advantages were presented, but beyond finding a lake, seeing the footprints of dogs, and taking on the beach oysters and turtles, they were disappointed. On the 3rd February they reached Sharks Bay, and found Hartog's old tin plate. During that month they worked up the coast, landing where they could, and acquiring all the know1edge in their power. In many places they sank wells, but obtained little fresh water. They tell us that the weather was exceedingly hot; that they ascended mountains; ran up supposed rivers; and met with severe storms of thunder, lightning, rain, and wind. In one of these a shallop was capsized and the carpenter was drowned. The coast was somewhat treacherous, and often they had to round banks jutting into the sea. When near the North West Cape, on 21st February, they fired cannons, "as a signal of farewell to the miserable South Land," and steered for Batavia. De Vlaming had thus discovered the Swan River, and anchored in the harbour of Fremantle.

In the meantime Dampier, the returned buccaneer, and the first Englishman to visit Australia, had arranged his book of travels. In 1698 this work, entitled A New Voyage Round the World, was published. It gave to the English public an extensive acquaintance with the southern seas and their many islands. It was the first authentic work dealing with Australia printed in English, and its romantic contents attracted the attention of those in high places. Dampier's remarks on the dimensions of New Holland made the English Government desirous of a further knowledge of its potentialities, and King William III., through the Earl of Pembroke, caused the Admiralty to fit out the Roebuck for an expedition. Dampier was given command as a just reward for his other services, and was entrusted to prove whether New Holland was a succession of islands or a continent, and also to examine parts of the north-west coast. Dampier was eager for the voyage, and the Roebuck, after being supplied with 12 guns, 50 men and boys, and 20 months' provisions, sailed from the Downs on the 14th January, 1699. The mission was esteemed so important that several King's ships escorted the Roebuck as far as Dungeness. Then Dampier sailed away from civilisation, and was for many months unheard of. Instead of giving a tiresome account of his voyage we will begin the narrative of his adventures when he was approaching Australia. After passing the Cape of Good Hope, Dampier, who must have possessed a comparatively extensive knowledge of winds and currents, distinctly mentions that he bore east south-east, as by keeping to the same parallel he could make better sailing. He was thus served by the prevailing west winds. Then when he considered it necessary he steered more northerly and weathered a somewhat trying storm. He now judged he was nearing the coast of New Holland from the amount of seaweed floating past his vessel, from birds and coral, and because of "small round things like pearl, some as big as white peas; they were very clear and transparent, and upon crushing any of them a drop of water would come forth."

On August 1, 1699, at nine in the morning, land was observed from the mast-head, ten leagues away. The coast was low and even, with steep red and white cliffs at the water's edge. An opening was before him, but not liking the anchorage, it being rocky, he stood out. This was slightly north of the Abrolhos. After beating about for a day or two he went further north, and on the 6th August anchored in a sound which he named Sharks Bay, because of the many sharks sporting there. Men were immediately sent on shore to search for water, but at night they returned on board without finding any. Further efforts were made by Dampier amid his men next day, but unsuccessful, they merely secured wood. The land had many gentle risings, and the shore was steep. The mould by the sea-side was sand, and there a samphire, bearing a white flower, grew; further in was a reddish sand mould, producing grass, plants, and shrubs. The grass grew in thick tufts, "as big as a bushel, here and there a tuft," being intermixed with much heath. None of the trees were more than 10 feet high. The colour of the leaves was whitish on one side and green on the other. "The blossoms of the different sorts of trees were of several colours, as red, white, yellow, &c., but mostly blue; and these generally smelt very sweet and fragrant." Tall and small sweet and beautiful flowers abounded, the like of which Dampier had not before seen. There were no large land fowls except eagles, and a few sorts of small birds. Among the waterfowl were ducks, "curlews, galdens,