Page:History of West Australia.djvu/332

From Wikisource
Jump to navigation Jump to search
This page has been validated.
280
WEST AUSTRALIA.


Ranges to the South Australian boundary, near the junction of the Negri and Ord Rivers. To perform these surveys, provisions, &c., had to be carried on pack-horses for six months. Much additional information of the fertility and geography of the country was obtained. Mr. E.T. Hardman, the Government Geologist, accompanied the party, and supplied a valuable report on the geological features. At about the same time a marine survey was made in Cambridge Gulf. The surveying schooner Meda, commissioned at the joint expense of the Imperial and Colonial Governments, under the command of Staff-Commander J.E. Coghlan, R.N., left Fremantle on 15th April, 1884, sailed slowly up the coast, and eastwards to Port Darwin. On 18th August the Meda left that part for Cambridge Gulf, and when within fifty miles of it sailed through many miles of what Captain Cook had termed "sea sawdust." The sea approaching the Gulf became very turbid, and had such a rusty colour as to render it almost impossible to distinguish with the eye the shoals from the channels. Cambridge Gulf was discovered to supply a port for the East Kimberley district. A suitable site for landing stock was found under View Hill. Staff-Commander Coghlan reported that since the visit of Captain King, in 1819, considerable alterations had taken place, for the configuration of the coast and channels bore evidence to an enormous quantity of earthy matter having been brought down by the rivers in the rainy season. King River was described as being so tortuous that a party who ascended it estimated that they travelled fifty miles to get ten miles in a direct line. Mount Cockburn, the most striking elevation, was likened to an enormous fortress, resembling the illustrations of Metz. Alligators and flying foxes were numerous.

Mr. Harry Johnston returned to the Kimberley district in 1885. On this occasion he landed in Cambridge Gulf, under View Hill, and went southwards to connect with his survey on the Ord of the previous year. For about twenty miles from View Hill the land was low and marshy. Well-grassed plains, more suitable for cattle than sheep, were observed on the left bank of the Ord, at the foot of the Erskine Ranges. The country was rough and picturesque, and for many miles the river cut its way through very high ranges forming practically impassable gorges. Well-grassed but rough lands lay near the Osmond Ranges, and grassy downs extended from the Behu to the boundary of the colony. Notwithstanding obstacles, Mr. Johnston compiled a very useful report. Numerous natives were seen on the Lower Ord, and the leader did not consider them so tractable as those on the Fitzroy. He was once reluctantly compelled to fire upon them—the first occasion in all his bush experience; and they set fire to the country, and even burnt stores left in tanks covered with stones at View Hill. Among other interesting features described by Mr. Johnston in this country were small kangaroos, each with a claw at the extremity of the tail; several handsome, almost black, native dogs; and bower birds of a greyish-brown colour, with a blue patch on the neck.

Proposals were made in 1885 to utilise the rich soils of Kimberley for sugar-growing, and a Select Committee of the Legislative Council was appointed to consider the scheme of one capitalist. In one week towards the end of November, 1885, some 8,000,000 acres were selected by one or other of the Messrs. H.R. Davies, H.B. Mason, and Collins. The largest block comprised 2,800,000 and the smallest 20,000 acres; the amount (except £2 12s.) of £1,337 was paid for rent. Large numbers of those who selected land when the district was first opened up surrendered their leases during succeeding years. The area held under lease diminished by more than one-half. Thus, whereas in 1884 there were 409 leases, representing 39,734,080 acres, the figures were reduced to 360 leases and 35,262,080 acres in 1885, 268 leases and 21,151,080 acres in 1886, and 131 leases and 15,454,550 acres in 1888. Nearly all the leases taken out under the original regulations were transferred or surrendered, and in 1888 all but three leases, representing 200,000 acres, were held under the regulations of 1887. In the district lying around King Sound, served by the Port of Derby, in 1887 there were ten sheep and a few cattle stations, carrying altogether 60,000 sheep. It was found after the first few years that much of the country over which sheep were run was better adapted for cattle, and the sheep were sent to dryer areas inland, where the grass was sweeter. On the Leonard and Fitzroy Rivers grass grew to from eight to twelve feet high; at the end of the dry season it became very brittle, except in the swamps and lagoons, where it remained green all the year round.

That there was a great revival in pastoral interests in the whole colony is shown by statistics. From 1,109,860 sheep in 1879, the number increased to 2,112,392 in 1888; or, for the fifty years of local history ending in 1879, pastoralists and farmers only managed to secure a solitary million odd sheep, but within the subsequent decade they increased these by another million. The largest area ever held in the colony under pastoral lease was in 1886, when the figures were 129,219,079 acres. The total area alienated was, in that year, 1,851,712; and the revenue derived from land was £73,863. The pastoral leases had decreased to 108,667,013 acres in 1888. Strenuous efforts were made to settle the Eucla district. Certain country there supplied excellent pasturage, but was deficient in water. Large areas of this land were taken up, the figures in 1883 being 35,000,000, producing an annual rent roll of £9,067. Pastoral companies were formed, and special inducements were offered to them by the Government to sink for water. Artesian bores were advised, railways were supported, and liberal rentals were allowed; but all to no effect. Without permanent water the district could not prosper. Messrs. Muir and Sons and Kennedy and McGill were pioneers of Eucla settlement.

The flocks in the North-west district were greatly increased, and gratifying developments took place in the Gascoyne division. There were again visitations from storms. A cyclone in January, 1881, wrecked the house on Messrs. Forrest, Burt, and Co.'s station on the Ashburton, and actually blew sheep before it and killed about 1,000; fencing and other damage was done. In April, 1882, also, a hurricane in the Roebourne district did serious damage. Houses and other buildings were blown down at Roebourne and Cossack, and hundreds of sheep were destroyed on the stations by the floods which followed. A flood in the Greenough district in February, 1888, caused heavy losses to farmers and squatters; several lives were lost, sheep and cattle were swept away, and buildings and telegraph poles were destroyed. The direct loss to farmers was estimated at £9,250, to the roads at £2,000, and to the railway at £570; some 20,000 acres of natural pasturage were destroyed. By the extension of settlement five new ports and towns were declared on the North and North-west Coasts—Broome (proclaimed 27th November, 1883), Onslow (29th September, 1885), Derby (3rd December, 1885), Wyndham (7th August, 1886), and Carnarvon (7th August, 1886).

In 1888, the colony possessed (besides 2,112,392 sheep)